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Cam belt snapped


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sorry to hear about your troubles mate.

out of interest how many miles had it done since the last belt change?

40k

You can probably get hold of a second hand engine with ecu and box for around £400 maximum.

Drop that in and you're back up and running.

Have looked into that but not managed to find any as of yet other than overpriced ones on ebay by stevens or the place in coventry.

Was a lad breaking a sport, but dunno if that'd be a ballache to drop in or is it plug and play?

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Took the head off, upon inspection it seems that only two valves are bent, oddly though, they are inlet ones which i really don't understand how that happened?

Anything you notice in these pics is appreciated

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Edited by Bickerton
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When my waterpump bearing failed and the belt jumped a tooth, I bent all 8 inlet valves

34056_481158884656_516369656_6300071_3516664_n.jpg

As above, looks like you may have got away with just the 2, I'd replace them, clean it all up and see if it'll turn over

Good luck mate

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put the head on its side pour petrol down inlet tracts and look for seepage past valve seat's, same exhaust side, if you have major seepage the valve will have damage, chances are you may of jumped teeth on the inlet side

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put the head on its side pour petrol down inlet tracts and look for seepage past valve seat's, same exhaust side, if you have major seepage the valve will have damage, chances are you may of jumped teeth on the inlet side

Is that something to do aswell as take the valves out or to work out what ones need removing as I'm looking at redoing the stem seals while the heads off anyways

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You may aswell put new stem seals in all of them while your there mate.

Best to invest in a half decent valve spring compresser too!

A few blue peter top tips that i've picked up over the years when building heads:

Get a piece of cardboard and punch 16 holes in it, with each hole numbered, corresponding to the head to ensure the valves go back in the same holes they came out of.

When lapping in the valves only use Chemico grinding paste. I found the others to be a lot less effective.

When grinding valves, rub the tube in your hand several times, then lift the valve up, rotate it 90 degrees and do it again. Dont just keep grinding it in the same position.

Grind the valves until all the tiny black dots on the valve face have dissapeared.

Use vaseline (or other grease) to stick the collets to your pliers to save you dropping them everytime you try to place them in.

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Gonna order the lot later from ECP as they got a 20% code at the mo and hopefully it'll all be here for my day off wednesday.

Then just a case of putting it all back together and not have any spare bolts left over ;)

I assume headbolts are stretch bolts so need binning?

Also any tips on how to clean up the head?

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Yes, you'll need new head bolts. You might find that they come with the head gasket kit.

With regards to cleaning the head, i use petrol to break down the grime and i put a wire brush in a drill to polish it up. This also works for cleaning up the valves.

Failing that you can use a dremel, or failing that, good old fashioned wet n' dry! :shades:

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Mate of mine is getting overexcited that i don't intend on replacing the guides (have tested a straight valve in bent ones and all seems fine) and that i am gonna use a grinding stick, you see any issues with this?

Also, should i be concerned that it's the inlet valves that managed to get damaged and that the belt was shredded like this

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Edited by Bickerton
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Strip the head, wash it with petrol, you wont damage the valves with much, a wire brush on a drill will work OK as said above. You don't want the head face polished, I would get some 120 grit paper on a flat block, wet with WD40 and lightly 'sands the head in a figure of eight motion, carefull not to create low spots.

Lap them in using the stick and grinding paste, wash again with petrol. Well worth changing the stem seals, and yes the bolts will need replacing. Looking at all the bent inlet valves, either a tensioner has failed, or belt has jumped due to the small belt getting stuck underneath it.

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i was able to remove the main belt without touching any tensioners, was tights but nothing excessive , I assume this shouldn't be possible

It's usally the platic outer section that falls off the tensioner. Your fitting a complete cambelt kit yes?

Edited by 99hjhm
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Just got back from having the head vac tested, only failed on the two inlet valves (phew?)

Have been quoted £140.60 for two valves, cleaning and rebuliding my head, head set (bolts, all gaskets including manifold, stem seals)

Happy with that if i'm honest as was looking at close to that for parts alone diy style

Should also have it back tomorrow ;)

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