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Alva - New engine and more paint problems


Amber_Nunny
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The wheel is not a huge job to fit it just requires you to butcher your squib ring a little and it's just a cover on the airbag, if you wanted the buttons to work you would need a golf squib though I imagine, the stereo had to have a custom adaptor made as there isn't one available for it. However it doesn't turn itself on and off with the ignition as it came from a canbus car and the lupos don't run this.

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The wheel is not a huge job to fit it just requires you to butcher your squib ring a little and it's just a cover on the airbag, if you wanted the buttons to work you would need a golf squib though I imagine, the stereo had to have a custom adaptor made as there isn't one available for it. However it doesn't turn itself on and off with the ignition as it came from a canbus car and the lupos don't run this.

Cheers mate for the info, would you that all the new type steering wheels need this done in order to adapt to older model cars or does it depend on what wheels being used?

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  • 1 month later...
Saw this little Lupo at Players and it looked great. Fantastic effort put in by everyone involved! :clap:

P.S. Did you get one of these Players keyrings from the show?

PlayersVersion2RetroStyleFinished_zpsfa6

Thanks very much!

No I forgot to grab a keyring which is annoying!

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So I haven't updated in a very long time!

Unfortunately my reacted paint is back AGAIN and now my painter has got a 'forensic engineer' to look at it, and his verdict is that it is an issue called 'solvent pop', personally I've never heard of it before but he hopes that double baking the car again will resolve the issue - I hope so because I want to go to UD!

In other news, to cheer myself up I have decided to get my fondmetals professionally refurbished and I should have them back in around a week - very excited! Also got custom centre caps being made by a very good friend of mine just to finish them off.

2014 wasn't quite the year id hoped for, if my paint issue is resolved then 2015 will be the start of better things!

Edited by Amber_Nunny
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The engineer came out last Tuesday and said it's "solvent pop" and that baking my car again will resolve the issue - I'm not convinced. Got to wait for him to compile a report and then for my painter to actually do it, then when that doesn't work hopefully I'll get my money back. Just want it sorted before UD

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The engineer came out last Tuesday and said it's "solvent pop" and that baking my car again will resolve the issue - I'm not convinced. Got to wait for him to compile a report and then for my painter to actually do it, then when that doesn't work hopefully I'll get my money back. Just want it sorted before UD

how defeatist!! you should want the baking to fix it!!

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So the report did recommend baking it, I'm just waiting for the painter to make a decision on if he's going to do it, and when.

Anyway, to keep myself happy I have been doing little details:

8950F66F-41FB-4C64-A2A1-0EA9DA4B5D6E_zps

New pedals are on the way ;)

Edited by Amber_Nunny
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Do you have a photo of said solvent pop? Solvent pop are crater's (fish eye's) they only appear as paint's drying out. Normally after the application. Most likely cause is to much paint applied too fast/heavily between coats. If they look like blisters or bubble's, it is micro blister. Moisture trapped under the paint which is forcing it's way out. Paint forensic science is new to me. Any decent body shop will know what is wrong with it. Take it to another decent repairer and ask them their opinion. Beautiful car by the way.

Curious about the heater controls. I've just bought some mk4 golf custom deals off eBay. Like the oem'ness of yours.

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It wasn't particularly, just hard and fiddly! You just have to have patience!

Cheers for that Craig, it's tiny little bubbles (I'll try to get a picture but it's hard to see on photos). This 'engineer' that came out didn't seem to know anything! He said it's not moisture because you can't burst the bubbles...but they're tiny. I understand that with huge blisters you probably could but I wouldn't imagine that with tiny bits of moisture that you could burst them. I have spoken to a few other bodyshops (without them seeing the car), and they're all convinced that baking it again will not solve the problem. I'm really hoping to just get my money back and take it somewhere else. Bit worried that it's happened twice now but like you said, maybe the person who I've been taking it to has been applying the layers too fast.

Heater controls were a pain in the bum. And still not quite there yet but I couldn't help but post a picture. Definitely going down the oem route! ^_^

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I'm also thinking it's moisture. Solvent pops are like craters of various round sizes. You may get the odd one on a panel. Micro blisters are either wet flatting primers and not drying out the water. Old School techniques now. Moist air in the work shop. Cold weather or high humidity will cause it. Your car should have been baked before paint to dry her out to stop this. Take your case to trading standards and get it done elsewhere once your paid for the rectification. The blisters could be any size too. I hope you get it sorted. And those sweet heater control's too

keep up the great work :)

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This is a picture from the first time is happened, but it's the same this time:

roofrear_zpsef0a669d.jpg

rooffront2_zpscd8640f9.jpg

And nooooo! Never have a cover on it as I didn't want to be blamed for the reaction in any way, although I wouldn't choose to put one on anyway. I've only ever cleaned it with ph neutral shampoo too

Edited by Amber_Nunny
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It will need to be sanded to the bare metal to get of them for good. Your shop has probably just knocked it off, primed and painted it. The reason I asked if you cover it is that causes them to blister too. Sometimes I've removed badges or weather strips to find the paint has blistered behind them as the moisture tries to escape. Recently I've had to paint strip a 68 triumph trophy tank as the gentleman had covered the bike. And last year same problem with a mk1 golf. I had a feeling you wouldn't be covering yours as a show car should never be hidden. No chemical reactions from car shampoo or degreaser would do that, they'll only dull the paint eventually. It's all down to preparation of the paint, something is trapped under the top coat. Every paint engineer I've met talk like data sheets. Few have ever had hands on experience. Danyutz may have a point if using water base degreaser, but no one would apply paint over degreaser because the paint would slide straight off onto the floor. I really hope you get this sorted out before UD

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Thanks for that Craig really helpful.

After my car was painted the first time (about 5 months after) I did cover it for around a week in a breathable cover as my mum was doing some work at her house and i didnt want my car to get damaged, but after this amount of time the paint shouldn't still be soft, and as its breathable and was only on for such a short amount of time I can't see that this is the cause.

Also, I haven't covered it second time around so this just proves that the painter obviously hasn't removed whatever has cause the microblisters and gone back far enough.

Unfortunately the guy is being an idiot about giving me my money back, so looks like it's going to be a court matter and that I will have to front the money to pay for another respray - so being ready for UD is going to be impossible - my new aim is Early Edition.

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