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How To:- Fit a new Peddle Box (non-GTI)


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Please note this was for a 2001 'Y' plate Seat Arosa Sport with an electronic throttle.

######### TAKE NEGATIVE CONNECTION OFF BATTERY AND LEAVE FOR ABOUT 15 - 20 MINS SO THE AIR BAG DOESN`T GO OFF#######

Parts to order: 1 pedal box (part number S6X2721115G), 1 brake pedal clip (part number 1H2721169), 2x M8x20mm sheer bolts (part number SN90583001) and also a 6.0mm Heavy Duty Cobalt drill bit, I bought mine from Cromwells (part number SWT1250460A). Please note the cobalt drill bit makes light work of the sheer bolts, without it there a mega pain in the arse.

Tools Required:-

13mm deep socket

Short Extension bar

2x Long extension bar

Ratchet

T20 torx screwdriver/ bit/ whatever you have

Small flathead screwdriver (for prying things)

Large flathead screwdriver

Small Philips screwdriver

A Pillow!!! (Must have!!!)

A hat when drilling (swarf sticks in your hair)

A hoover (clean up the swarf)

10mm spanner

13mm spanner

Drill of some sort (i used a cordless)

6mm allen key

Pliers

Chisel

Hammer

Safety Glasses

1. Remove the seat by removing the 2 13mm nuts at the front of the seat, so you have plenty of room. You will also have to remove the runner protectors, these come off by removing the screws underneath the caps on the top of the covers. I couldn't the caps off so tore them off (too bloody cold to piss about) Once its removed put the pillow over the bit of metal that sticks out, cause you will get sick of it sticking in your back.

PH_33.jpg

PH_34.jpg

I'm not sure if this is on every model, but it seems to be an airbag plug for my seats? (also has airbag written on the side of my seats) either way, you need to push down on one end of the clip, which acts as a plug cover, then remove the plug for the seat.

PH_35.jpg

and voila, plenty of space (note how low my clutch peddle is)

PH_36.jpg

2. Remove the lower dash parts and the steering column cowling using the T20 torx screwdriver, where they are are in the pics with red arrows...

PH_37.jpg

PH_38.jpg

PH_39.jpg

the top bolts can be removed only when the steering column cowling and light switch plate have been removed

PH_40.jpg

3. Remove brake light switch now, and if you have it (i broke mine) the ventillation switch (blue sensor). Both are in front of the brake pedal on the pedal box.

PH_41.jpg

connection...

PH_42.jpg

I dont have the rest of the ventillation sensor as it was chucked after a new one was bought...

PH_52.jpg

4. On your ignition lock there is like a plastic thing which goes round it that houses the immobilizer sensor carefully pull it straight off, and it will come off!(dont unplug the cable what ever you do, causes a lot more work.)

PH_61.jpg

5. Now loosen off your clutch cable in the engine bay using 10mm and 13mm spanners, you may need to use the pliers to hold the cable still (dont grab on the threaded or rubber bit of the cable) and remove cable from fork on the gearbox (justs pulls over when fully loosened).

PH_43.jpg

Remove the cable from the pedal by pulling on the bulbous bit and lifting upwards (there is some tape on but the cable should cut through it easily enough). Once the cable is removed, undo the 13mm nut on the passenger side of the cluth pedal, and remove the pedal itself.

PH_44.jpg

PH_45.jpg

6. Now if you get on your back and look up you will see 2 sheer bolts either side of the column, these are a big pain in the arse. The easiest method i found was to drill in the centre of the bolts for about 6-8mm, then turn them off using a chisel and hammer (drilling releaves the stress on the threads/ loosens the bolts). To get the drill in you will need to bend the bracket circled in blue, dont worry as it will bend back no problem, and all it does is suppost the steering column cowling. Also wear a hat when drilling as the dwarf doesn't like to leave your hair once its in it, and watch your eyes as it will hurt like hell if the swarf gets in your eyes... could always wear safety glasses as well i guess lol. Sheer bolts are cicled in red.

PH_47.jpg

drivers side

PH_48.jpg

passengers side

PH_49.jpg

7. Now disconnect all wires on the steering column, once you've pushed the clip down, you'll need to lever out the other end with the small flathead screwdriver. Now if you look just behind the foot rest there is a panel which needs to be removed, as it is hiding the universal joint for the steering column. Unscrew the carpet clips (position is circled in blue) with the large flathead screwdriver and remove the 13mm bolt out of the universal joint. The steering column slips over a bar on the pedal bar so it will need a wiggle before it can be lifted up and out.

PH_46.jpg

8. Next job is to disconnect the brake pedal from the servo, there is a white clip that holds linkege bar coming from the brake servo and its a push in ball type fit, this is hard/ near enough impossible to remove and in the end i just pulled on the brake pedal till the clip broke. So I would advise STRONGLY to buy a new one, there under a fiver new anyway. Here's what mine looked like after i removed it, and the other type that is fitted to different models...

Still in the pedal

PH_53.jpg

finally out of the pedal

PH_56.jpg

Other type of clip fitment

PH_58.jpg

comparison

PH_59.jpg

PH_60.jpg

9. Then you need to remove all 5 bolts around the pedal box (positions shown in red) and disconnect the plug coming from the Throttle potenciometer, its the big green plug above the clutch pedal (i did this on a fly by wire.)

721260.png

10. Then the pedal box should just pull out (leave the pedal bar/bolt in as there isn`t enough room to remove it all untill you have removed the pedal box. It can be tricky to remove due to the brake servo but be patient.

11. Remove the old drake pedal clip and fit the new one (bit of a barsteward but does go in easily enough). Now just transfer everything from your old pedal box to your new one.

12. Now its time to start putting things back together. when re-fitting the pedal box, put a couple of nuts on the end of the brake servo bolts (they'll wiggle when you touch the brake servo) as those studs like to disappear. Feed the clutch cable through the mounting for it. Once the servo is through the hole in the pedal box, remove the nuts and start to fit the pedal box to the bulk head.

13. Once the pedal box is clamped down refit the clutch cable to the clutch pedal (you can push the slack away) and refit the clutch cable to the fork in the engine bay.

14. Next is refitting the steering column, because of the mounting plate on the pedal bar, you will need a hand putting this is as you need to fit the universal joint at the same time (there's a slot in the joint for the bolt to fit through as an alignment aid/ securing device.) Just a bit of fiddling to get it to fit.

15. The rest of the parts will fit relatively straight forward so I wont go into it in detail. But DO NOT reconnect the battery until ALL electrical items are plugged in again, especially airbag stuff.

Note: If the clutch is too high on the pedal, move the nuts on the gearbox end of the pedal towards the front of the car. If the biting point is too low, move the bolts to the back of the car :)

Luke did this on a 1L but was the same as my 1.4 16v Sport Arosa, would just like to say a big thanks to Luke for writing up the original thread, as 1) I would have spent alot longer on this job and a few more trips to Seat/Volkswagen for parts and 2) wouldn't have been able to make this write up :)

Cheers Feet.

(if one of the mods would like to move this to the how to section it would be great)

Edited by Bigfoot
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NOTE the spring has to be fitted onto the flat of the brake servo clip.

PH_57.jpg

spring to be fitted onto here...

PH_56-1.jpg

Also this is what my pedal box looked like when it was removed...

PH_50.jpg

PH_51.jpg

Looks like the heat from the weld made the metal next to it more brittle, therefore, I would personally advise NEVER to weld a knackered pedal box.

Especially when I paid...

Peddle Box (S6X2721115G) = £25.82 + vat

2x Sheer Bolts (SN90583001) = £1.79 + vat

Brake peddle clip (1H2721169) = £3.81 + vat

Cobalt Drill bit (SWT1250460A) = about £5 each from Cromwells

From start to finish I'd say it would take, maybe about 4-5 hours with tea breaks lol

Edited by Bigfoot
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No problem pall that is a very detailed write up, i just didnt have the time, and had to work it out as i went along as well, i would strongly reccomend buying a whole new brake pedal saves the fuss of changing the clips over and its only like a fiver more, also i never sheered the heads off the bolts, the only reason they use sheer bolts is to stop people Nicking the steering colum (or so i have been told) and if they can get it out they can take it tbh. Leaving them makes it easy to change if it breaks again.

Glad you got it sorted mate.

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No problem pall that is a very detailed write up, i just didnt have the time, and had to work it out as i went along as well, i would strongly reccomend buying a whole new brake pedal saves the fuss of changing the clips over and its only like a fiver more, also i never sheered the heads off the bolts, the only reason they use sheer bolts is to stop people Nicking the steering colum (or so i have been told) and if they can get it out they can take it tbh. Leaving them makes it easy to change if it breaks again.

Glad you got it sorted mate.

yeah a know what you mean mate, the clips just weren't game for coming out at all lol.

need to ammend one of the photos as there's 7 bolts on the peddle box lol

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  • 2 months later...

NOTE the spring has to be fitted onto the flat of the brake servo clip.

PH_57.jpg

spring to be fitted onto here...

PH_56-1.jpg

Also this is what my pedal box looked like when it was removed...

PH_50.jpg

PH_51.jpg

Looks like the heat from the weld made the metal next to it more brittle, therefore, I would personally advise NEVER to weld a knackered pedal box.

Especially when I paid...

Peddle Box (S6X2721115G) = £25.82 + vat

2x Sheer Bolts (SN90583001) = £1.79 + vat

Brake peddle clip (1H2721169) = £3.81 + vat

Cobalt Drill bit (SWT1250460A) = about £5 each from Cromwells

From start to finish I'd say it would take, maybe about 4-5 hours with tea breaks lol

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Share on other sites

Please note this was for a 2001 'Y' plate Seat Arosa Sport with an electronic throttle.

######### TAKE NEGATIVE CONNECTION OFF BATTERY AND LEAVE FOR ABOUT 15 - 20 MINS SO THE AIR BAG DOESN`T GO OFF#######

Parts to order: 1 pedal box (part number S6X2721115G), 1 brake pedal clip (part number 1H2721169), 2x M8x20mm sheer bolts (part number SN90583001) and also a 6.0mm Heavy Duty Cobalt drill bit, I bought mine from Cromwells (part number SWT1250460A). Please note the cobalt drill bit makes light work of the sheer bolts, without it there a mega pain in the arse.

Tools Required:-

13mm deep socket

Short Extension bar

2x Long extension bar

Ratchet

T20 torx screwdriver/ bit/ whatever you have

Small flathead screwdriver (for prying things)

Large flathead screwdriver

Small Philips screwdriver

A Pillow!!! (Must have!!!)

A hat when drilling (swarf sticks in your hair)

A hoover (clean up the swarf)

10mm spanner

13mm spanner

Drill of some sort (i used a cordless)

6mm allen key

Pliers

Chisel

Hammer

Safety Glasses

1. Remove the seat by removing the 2 13mm nuts at the front of the seat, so you have plenty of room. You will also have to remove the runner protectors, these come off by removing the screws underneath the caps on the top of the covers. I couldn't the caps off so tore them off (too bloody cold to piss about) Once its removed put the pillow over the bit of metal that sticks out, cause you will get sick of it sticking in your back.

PH_33.jpg

PH_34.jpg

I'm not sure if this is on every model, but it seems to be an airbag plug for my seats? (also has airbag written on the side of my seats) either way, you need to push down on one end of the clip, which acts as a plug cover, then remove the plug for the seat.

PH_35.jpg

and voila, plenty of space (note how low my clutch peddle is)

PH_36.jpg

2. Remove the lower dash parts and the steering column cowling using the T20 torx screwdriver, where they are are in the pics with red arrows...

PH_37.jpg

PH_38.jpg

PH_39.jpg

the top bolts can be removed only when the steering column cowling and light switch plate have been removed

PH_40.jpg

3. Remove brake light switch now, and if you have it (i broke mine) the ventillation switch (blue sensor). Both are in front of the brake pedal on the pedal box.

PH_41.jpg

connection...

PH_42.jpg

I dont have the rest of the ventillation sensor as it was chucked after a new one was bought...

PH_52.jpg

4. On your ignition lock there is like a plastic thing which goes round it that houses the immobilizer sensor carefully pull it straight off, and it will come off!(dont unplug the cable what ever you do, causes a lot more work.)

PH_61.jpg

5. Now loosen off your clutch cable in the engine bay using 10mm and 13mm spanners, you may need to use the pliers to hold the cable still (dont grab on the threaded or rubber bit of the cable) and remove cable from fork on the gearbox (justs pulls over when fully loosened).

PH_43.jpg

Remove the cable from the pedal by pulling on the bulbous bit and lifting upwards (there is some tape on but the cable should cut through it easily enough). Once the cable is removed, undo the 13mm nut on the passenger side of the cluth pedal, and remove the pedal itself.

PH_44.jpg

PH_45.jpg

6. Now if you get on your back and look up you will see 2 sheer bolts either side of the column, these are a big pain in the arse. The easiest method i found was to drill in the centre of the bolts for about 6-8mm, then turn them off using a chisel and hammer (drilling releaves the stress on the threads/ loosens the bolts). To get the drill in you will need to bend the bracket circled in blue, dont worry as it will bend back no problem, and all it does is suppost the steering column cowling. Also wear a hat when drilling as the dwarf doesn't like to leave your hair once its in it, and watch your eyes as it will hurt like hell if the swarf gets in your eyes... could always wear safety glasses as well i guess lol. Sheer bolts are cicled in red.

PH_47.jpg

drivers side

PH_48.jpg

passengers side

PH_49.jpg

7. Now disconnect all wires on the steering column, once you've pushed the clip down, you'll need to lever out the other end with the small flathead screwdriver. Now if you look just behind the foot rest there is a panel which needs to be removed, as it is hiding the universal joint for the steering column. Unscrew the carpet clips (position is circled in blue) with the large flathead screwdriver and remove the 13mm bolt out of the universal joint. The steering column slips over a bar on the pedal bar so it will need a wiggle before it can be lifted up and out.

PH_46.jpg

8. Next job is to disconnect the brake pedal from the servo, there is a white clip that holds linkege bar coming from the brake servo and its a push in ball type fit, this is hard/ near enough impossible to remove and in the end i just pulled on the brake pedal till the clip broke. So I would advise STRONGLY to buy a new one, there under a fiver new anyway. Here's what mine looked like after i removed it, and the other type that is fitted to different models...

Still in the pedal

PH_53.jpg

finally out of the pedal

PH_56.jpg

Other type of clip fitment

PH_58.jpg

comparison

PH_59.jpg

PH_60.jpg

9. Then you need to remove all 5 bolts around the pedal box (positions shown in red) and disconnect the plug coming from the Throttle potenciometer, its the big green plug above the clutch pedal (i did this on a fly by wire.)

721260.png

10. Then the pedal box should just pull out (leave the pedal bar/bolt in as there isn`t enough room to remove it all untill you have removed the pedal box. It can be tricky to remove due to the brake servo but be patient.

11. Remove the old drake pedal clip and fit the new one (bit of a barsteward but does go in easily enough). Now just transfer everything from your old pedal box to your new one.

12. Now its time to start putting things back together. when re-fitting the pedal box, put a couple of nuts on the end of the brake servo bolts (they'll wiggle when you touch the brake servo) as those studs like to disappear. Feed the clutch cable through the mounting for it. Once the servo is through the hole in the pedal box, remove the nuts and start to fit the pedal box to the bulk head.

13. Once the pedal box is clamped down refit the clutch cable to the clutch pedal (you can push the slack away) and refit the clutch cable to the fork in the engine bay.

14. Next is refitting the steering column, because of the mounting plate on the pedal bar, you will need a hand putting this is as you need to fit the universal joint at the same time (there's a slot in the joint for the bolt to fit through as an alignment aid/ securing device.) Just a bit of fiddling to get it to fit.

15. The rest of the parts will fit relatively straight forward so I wont go into it in detail. But DO NOT reconnect the battery until ALL electrical items are plugged in again, especially airbag stuff.

Note: If the clutch is too high on the pedal, move the nuts on the gearbox end of the pedal towards the front of the car. If the biting point is too low, move the bolts to the back of the car :)

Luke did this on a 1L but was the same as my 1.4 16v Sport Arosa, would just like to say a big thanks to Luke for writing up the original thread, as 1) I would have spent alot longer on this job and a few more trips to Seat/Volkswagen for parts and 2) wouldn't have been able to make this write up :)

Cheers Feet.

(if one of the mods would like to move this to the how to section it would be great)

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hi i am in the middle of taking out my daughters pedal box and was wondering where you got your parts i am also in glenrothes did you get them local cheers tony ive posted a message with my details

Edited by toneloke
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  • 3 weeks later...

I'm very sorry for not noticing this post.

I got all of my parts from Fife Seat at Bankhead roundabout.

Although I needed to go to Specialist VW in Kirkcaldy to get the brake clips

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  • 1 year later...
  • 10 months later...
  • 1 month later...

any way of taking steering rack out with out drilling them bits out? And once ive drilled them how the hell do i get it back on?:S????? Help??!!!

any way of taking steering rack out with out drilling them bits out? And once ive drilled them how the hell do i get it back on?:S????? Help??!!!

New sheer bolts?

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  • 3 years later...

A big THANK YOU to @Bigfoot as your documented photo guide was invaluable to me - without the aid of any manual I was even struggling to understand how the st. column was removable without removing the pedal bolt!!   Everyone else said removing shear bolts was the hardest but some of the rest of it is just as tricky.

Just to add to Bigfoot's excellent write up :-

I would mark U/J and shaft on steering column joint with Tippex as it can be mounted 180 degrees out - mine was easy only because I left steering lock on and didn't move front wheels during work. I took pictures of the way the st. column loom looks before unclipping plastic surround and removing all the plugs (lot of patience needed as not all unclip using common method). reason for photos being that horn connector position quite fussy and ditto it's yellow connector with foam around it - needs to be just right for steering column shroud to fit snugly.  As Bigfoot said, there are a total of 7 fixings, only 3 a bit fiddly on re-assembly.  On pedalbox refitting:-  I don't know how the hell you fitted yours completely assembled with all 3 pedals! I didn't fit nuts loose to servo only because I needed it to go into engine compartment as far as possible to help fitting pedalbox. If servo pushrod could be restrained/pushed forward somehow then job would be much easier.

After a few failed dummy-runs at assembly I found the only way was to attach clutch pedal (easy) and brake pedal seperately after locating pedalbox on bulkhead first.. Once the pedalbox is finally roughly in position so it can be attached to bulkhead I then offered up the brake pedal which was already assembled with new white clip  (mind the steel 'bowler hat' hasn't dislodged itself) and return spring with tang nestled in 'void' in white clip (as said already). First you need to identify hole in pedalbox to locate the other return spring tang and wiggle until it's in. Then you can carefully rotate/position brake pedal complete with spacers/steel sleeves and spring until it fits in pedalbox but also aligned ready to receive pivot bolt. I used a miner's torch attachment on head for this - no way I could have done it without. With whole assembly swivelled clockwise around servo rod, you can get enough clearance away from fusebox to now fit long pedal pivot bolt. This is where I went for a cup of Tea as, apart from brakelight switch saga, all the hard challenges are finally beaten! You can now loosely fit the clutch pedal with it's steel sleeve and fat penny-washer and nut. Next, make sure clutch cable outer sleeve (and cable fed through of course) is properly located in part-rubber fixing you have already fitted to pedalbox (mine popped off twice during all the 'wrestling') and then reattach throttle potentiometer* connector as you won't be able to do it after pedalbox is fully bolted down.  Next I put nuts loosely on the 3 servo studs protruding through pedalbox before carefully aligning servo pushrod with brake pedal clip (I greased mine just to be sure) and then carefully depressing pedal to feel and hear a reassuring 'click' when it locates on pushrod ball.  The rest of the reassembly is straightforward apart from fitting brakelight switch to pedalbox as it's easy to break it, if you hadn't already done so when you removed it (covered elsewhere on here). I used high grade caphead bolts and thick penny washers to replace my shear bolts.

*I am sure if throttle potentiometer was fitted by a VAG Technician then this would need setting up after fixing but I think most of us on here are happy to take a chance that it will perform ok (mine did).  I scribed along side of switch body before I removed it from old pedalbox and I could see that switch was not quite 'fully rotated' within it's available adjustment so I just crudely tried to replicate this when fitting to new pedalbox.

Edited by pond
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  • 8 months later...

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