Jump to content

Hard Drive/Head Unit help


 Share

Recommended Posts

I have just fitted a double DIN screen into my Lupo and it has a USB cable coming out of the back with a female connection so you can plug in a HDD/Flash etc. I managed to get the stereo to recognise the HDD by formatting it to FAT32.

I want to locate the HDD in the boot of the car but when i connect a 3m Belkin USB (2.0) cable to the HDD and then to the female connector on the stereo the HDD just beeps as there is not enough power there. Where as, if i just use the supplied USB cable which is around 24 inches long it works perfectly fine and i can watch movies, listen to music etc from it. This is also the case when i connect it to my computer at home.

So what i wanted to know is, are there any specific types of cables to use? If so what? or is the Belkin cable is just too long that it drains the power needed to operate the HDD? If this is the case i've just wasted 15quid on a cable, also, now where do i put the HDD at the front of the car so it is easy to get to when i want to update the tunes on it?

Sorry for the essay, i just wanted to explain my situation clearly!

Thanks for any help.

Edited by Adam
Link to comment
Share on other sites

There is a max distance which USB will power...

Maximum Useful Signalling Distance

Although a single cable is limited to 5 meters, the USB specification permits up to five USB hubs in a long chain of cables and hubs. This allows for a maximum signalling distance of 30 meters, using six 5-meter cables and five hubs. In actual use, the last hub is a more convenient endpoint since some USB devices include built-in cables intended to directly connect to a hub, setting the maximum useful signalling distance at 25 meters.

Since USB can provide power for additional devices connected to the bus, a special type of USB extender cable was created which consists of a miniature one-port USB hub molded into one end of a 5 meter cable. These mini-hubs are fully self-contained within the cable, requiring no separate bulky hub device, and are as simple to use as plugging cables together, with each hub drawing power through all the previous single-port hubs in the chain. The bus power is limited however, so the most practical application is to use four single-port hub extender cables, one plain 5 meter cable, and then a powered multiport hub at the very end to support multiple additional USB devices.

USB hard disks over 12gb (I think) usually require a double USB head to the source. I assume you are having power loss issues. You could try a data source with less power requirments on the 5m cable to prove/disprove this.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If its a bus powered hard drive then the cable may be too long to give enough power to run the drive. Laptops running off bettery sometimes have issues with not giving enough power on the usb so you can get a cable that connects to 2 usb posts one is just for added power. What you could do is use one of those connected to a usb phone\i pod lighter socket charger to boost the power. Then all you need is the correct combination of adaptor to connect that cable to your longer one. You may also be able to use a powered usb hub depending if the headunit will support it. I have run bus powered driver off of 6m usb cable with a powered hub without data issues.

Edited by Unheard
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Interesting stuff guys, cheers!

The cable i got with the HDD (250gb) does have the two connectors on the end, but sadly i only have one female input on the HU. I don't think i will go for the lighter socket charger option as then i will have wires on show and my main aim was to have everything hidden if possible. So, these USB hubs, do they boost power at all? So if i were to connect one to the output cable on the HDD then plug the 3m Belkin cable in would that work at all?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What about splicing into the ciggy lighter behind the scenes, that way everything it out of sight. Aren't there also boosters in line when the usb cable is over 2m?

Another thing to do is relocate the drive into a caddy that is accessible under the dash or behind the center console. so that you can still access it and it's within the power capability of the hu.

Edited by Tallika_Fan
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I was thinking about locating it under the dash with maybe some velcro on the back to keep it secure. If not i will put it in the tray under the steering wheel, its not totally out of site there, but it doesn't stare you in the face and it is easily accesible.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That would be nice, but i know of a few poeple on here who have acquired the parts, looked at it and then thought twice about fitting the glove box, so that doesn't fill me with a lot of confidence.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You can get a bluetooth adapter which is an extra 80 quid, then i could stream music from my phone, but i only have 8gb on my phone and i currently have over that in music :( I'm not sure how good it would be at streaming movie/music video either?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You *must* be joking!

How about mounting it somewhere behind the coin slots? Then, when you need to get to it just remove the coin holder and take out the drive?

I'll have a look at that BJC!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have a glove box fitted and i can say first hand it looks harder to do than it is. That aside you could get an arm rest console to go between the seats where it could sit. Also if you wanted it in the boot going down the centre of the car is a shorter run than down the sides of the car. Your best bet is a lighter socket charger to boost the power. Once you open them and take the insides out the actual electronics are tiny. You could run a remote wire from the headunit along with the usb, the remote wire would give enough power for charger and all you need to do is find an earth point. Not hard as the battery is at the back in a GTi. Shrink wrap around the charger electronics and your away with a nice neat setup. The power is better applied nearer to the drive than the headunit.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

At slight risk of OT - please can you start a new thread with details on glove box fitting. I've tried it myself, and given up. One other person I know of has fitted one to a decent standard, but was never happy with it.

Their modifications to fit required a full Polo lower dash (inc Glovebox), passenger side polo upper dash and passenger side airbag.

If you've got it looking neat and OEM, much kudos to you.

Just found your old thread (which I posted in!)

It's a half decent job, but not one I could live with.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Apart from one part it looks just as good as the polo i have compared and The polo by factory fit is not stunning. Its its not the whole lower dash as i could not get that from the car the drivers side was crushed. I got the parts from a scrap yard and had nothing to go on so anyone else doing it could do a much better job. my car is more of a van so i have no interest in making it look stunning just to get scratched its getting more and more battered lol. Dont be put of its a well worth it mod no one has ever asked if it was not original.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just the main glove box and a little bit at the side of it. Thats the bit that does not look so good as i had to cut it off where i could get to it. The steering wheel was by the gear stick so i didnt have much option. The glove box its self is one bit its the same width as the standard bit of plastic guttering thats already in place so that makes life easy in terms of knowing where should go. The bit of plastic at the side is just an in fill its the only part that really needs attention to get it to look good but in black that task is not so hard and obviously it would not be cut like the bit i have.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The fit to the upper dash isn't spot on either - I remember having this issue. You could bolt it on there, but it wouldn't be flush.

Also, if anything rolls from the drivers side under the din sections and out to the other side, it will end up caught between the shell of the glovebox and the upper dash (or roll out on to the floor).

I don't want to knock your install, as it looks probably as good as it could using the parts you have - but it's not 'neat' by my standards.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

No the glove box has to be modifyed to fit flush i have taken it down almost as far as it can go without the door hitting the dash. The only differance with the polo dash is a lip that it sits in at the top even then the door still has a gap its just the nature of the way the door sits its not perfect even on the polo. If anything i need to modify the catch to hold the door tighter shut. I have solved the problem of things slideing from one side to the other. Pipe lagging in the void under the din. The lagging is black so its so dark you cant see it even when shining a light at it it just looks like darkness. I never claimed it was a show class install i would love to see some one come along and do it better. From doing it i know exactly where to make it better. I spent about 3 houses shaving the top down by a mm each time to see how much i could get away with, i could probably take like 3mm more off the top. It was not hard to do i just had no idea how much to take off so i took it slow. Black would automatically look better the grey i have is shabby looking even on the factory fit parts lol. If your after a show quality install then it may be not for you but as a usable car it can be made to look like it was ment to be. To be quite honest it looks much better with a glove box than without. The standard gutter is just a joke it drove me nuts. I take no offence if its not to a standard everyone is happy with at the time i didnt even know if it would fit at all so i just took a risk on it. It can be made be made much better if you know what has to be done rather than just winging it lol. I have been toying with the idea of spraying it all black but that may scratch more than it does now so i am undecided. Anyway back to the topic at hand . . .

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Rick, i could run a power supply from the unit but i think it would mean cutting into the loom which im not confident in doing unfortunately. For easiness i guess i am just going to locate the Hdd behind the center console.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.