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How to: Install a BMC to a 1.4 16V Lupo


veedub1955
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Hi all here's a step by step guide on how to install a BMC to my 1.4S. I bought the kit from Kam Racing

who's sales service is excellent, here is a link to the club discount section Kam Racing Club Lupo discount

As you can see in pic number 1 this is what you get with the kit, it includes the silicon hose and breather with it.

The kits not exactly a bolt on affair so Ive decided to do this how to

Tools needed:-

Posidrive screwdriver

10mm Socket or spanner

5mm allen key

T25 torx driver or socket

Stanley Knife

Hacksaw

Optional:

File/Grinder

7mm socket or spanner

(N.B if anyone wants the stickers PM me for my address and send us an SAE 1st come first served :rolleyes: )

Whats included in the kit

1Kit.jpg

Basic layout of origonal air box

2Basiclayout.jpg

First undo the existing cool air inlet pipe, heres the first screw

3Undoscrew1.jpg

And here's the next, also pull off the oil breather pipe which the new supplied breather is going to be

installed on later

4Undoscrew2andbreather.jpg

Now undo the 4 5mm allen key bolts that hold the rocker plastic cover on and remove

5Undorockercoverscrews.jpg

Now undo the 1st of the two screws that hold the air box on with your T25 torx, if you havnt got one of

these then a well fitting flat head screwdriver should undo this with a bit of care. Better pic 2 follow

6Undoairboxscrew1-1.jpg

Now undo the seven posidrive screw that hold the top of the air box on locations with screws in as below

7Undoairboxcoverscrewsx7-1.jpg

Now undo the second torx screw that holds the air box on and remove airbox, this is also held on by a

rubber grommet and might be a bit tight to remove

8Undoairboxscrew2-1.jpg

Now you have to install the reducer ring on the throttle body, here is the throttle body width

9Throttlebodywidth.jpg

The smallest reducer supplied is a bit bigger than the throttle body and you might think it wont fit

but with a bit of care tightening it will, without any air leaks

10Reducerwidth.jpg

Take care with the supplied jubilee clip that it dosent foul the opening of the throttle cable when

screwing on

11Installreducer.jpg

The silicon hose is bigger than you need and you will have to trim down. Mockup the position of the

induction box and mark where you want to cut it.

12Mockuphosepositionforwidthandmark.jpg

I always put the jubilee clip on before cutting and either use it as a guide, or use it to mark a ring right

round the hose so you get a neat cut. I tried using a hacksaw at first to cut but it didnt give a clean cut

and had loads of swalf that can get in your throttle body, so I used a sharp stanley knife and this gave

it a clean neat edge. BE CAREFUL

13Cuthoseforwidth.jpg

Now mockup hose for hight of induction box, mark and cut as above

14Mockuphosepositionforheight.jpg

Now push the silicon hose onto the reducer, it dosent need a jubilee clip a ) cause only two are supplied and

B ) you might overtighten the clip and break the reducer, it is a real tight fit and dosent leak. NOW FOR THE

MOST IMPORTANT BIT CHECK THE THROTTLE CABLE CAM DOSENT FOUL or you will either not gain full

throttle or the throttle could stick open and have disasterous results YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED. So adjust the

height accordingly

15Pushonsiliconehoseandcheckforf-1.jpg

Now it is time to measure the mounting brace bar for length, mockup the mounting ring and find a suitable

mounting point as below, the cam cover screw has plenty of thread on it, so is perfect

16Measuremountingbarforlength.jpg

Now cut to length with you hacksaw, Ive rounded the edges off to save sharp edges, and frayed tempers

plus its a neater job

17Cutandchamfermountingbar.jpg

Now install mounting bar and tighten the supplied 10mm nut and bolt to the ring, and undo the 5mm

allen bolt of the cam cover, install and tighten

NB THE INDUCTION BOX IS THE WRONG WAY ROUND IN THIS SHOT, CHECK ON THE ENDS OF THE INDUCTION

BOX AND IT WILL TELL YOU THE RIGHT WAY ROUND (DOH at least i realised before EVERYTHING was put back lol)

18Installmountingbar.jpg

Now to instal the flip#*$n supplied breather, it is a tight fit and WILL pop off a few times but you will

get there eventually :rolleyes: I cable tied round the fuel rail but didnt tighen the tie too much so

as to not crush the breather pipe or rail

19Installoilbreatherandmount.jpg

Now cut to lenth the induction pipe and pop on, you dont need jubilee clips here as not enough are supplied

but im going to get some and add a a later date

20Cuttolengthinductionpipe.jpg

Now replace the rocker cover plastic cover and go and test :shades:

21Installrockercoverbackonandtest.jpg

On the next installment im making a aluminum bell that will mount onto the plastic cover next to the radiator

and have bought a 1mtr lenth of 70mm pipe from eBay so as to get better flow and colder air into it, watch this

space. Also when I next get some spare cash Ill get a Raceland manifold from KAM racing and do a full install

how to on this. Thanks for looking :rolleyes:

Edited by veedub1955
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good guide! im going to be fitting the same to mine, any noticible gains? also how does it sound, as i have heard that bmc's are nice and quiet??

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Cheers guys

The sound is really good in first and second when you are accelerating then it quitens down

nicely, big improvement in sound. Dont expect hugh differences in performance as you only

going to get them with other modifications as well although there is a noticable small

improvement. I going for the bolt on mods at first and then the whole package should give

noticable gains. Doing the Ram air into the intake should make some improvement as well

Ill post a guide when I get chance to go on the lathe at work and make a bell mouth for

behind the front grill. Also putting coilovers on this weekend and will do the same how to guide

on that as well

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The tip on cutting the silicon hose worked a treat. Ta very much.

I also cut a hole in the silicon hose and extended my oil breather pipe into it with a few adaptors I had keeping the originial enclosed system.

No oily smells coming through the vents, no oil condensation dampening up your engine bay, and the air filter doesn't get soaked in oil as the oil breather hose pumps out directly based above the throttle body.

I'll post up a picture later this week. :)

Edited by Niche
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Very good guide that, really looks snuggly fitted.

I should really cut the silicon hose on mine as seeing yours so neat makes mine look shoddy haha. Only thing that I found was that on my BMC DIA kit, I didn't need the reduce pipe to connect it to the throttle body. I just was just able to slot the hose over it and tighten with a jubilee clip. Was a snug enough fit anyway as well as having the clip to hold it tight.

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Can anyone tell me in simply word what that means...?

My english is good but not too good...!

:wacko:

Now push the silicon hose onto the reducer, it dosent need a jubilee clip a ) cause only two are supplied and

B ) you might overtighten the clip and break the reducer, it is a real tight fit and dosent leak. NOW FOR THE

MOST IMPORTANT BIT CHECK THE THROTTLE CABLE CAM DOSENT FOUL or you will either not gain full

throttle or the throttle could stick open and have disasterous results YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED. So adjust the

height accordingly

Thanks Veedub...! :rolleyes:

D.

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Nice one mate :D What exhaust system are you running

I'm not running a branded exhaust, its a fully custom stainless steel cat back exhaust made by LongLife.

I'm ordering a silicon reducing hose tomorrow, one end is 70mm which fixes to the BMC, and the other end I think needs to be a 50mm so I can attach it to the original hot air/cold air system without any air leaks.

Silicon Hose Reducer

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Now push the silicon hose onto the reducer, it dosent need a jubilee clip

(Put the big blue hose onto the black plastic ring

that makes the hose fit the accelerator body)

a ) cause only two are supplied and

(Only 2 big round clips are in the kit) Solo 2 grandi clip sono tornata nel kit

B ) you might overtighten the clip and break the reducer, it is a real tight fit and dosent leak.

(If you use a big round clip it may break the plastic reducer)

Se si utilizza una grande rotonda clip può rompere il riduttore di plastica

NOW FOR THE MOST IMPORTANT BIT CHECK THE THROTTLE CABLE CAM DOSENT FOUL or you will either not gain full

throttle or the throttle could stick open and have disasterous results YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED. So adjust the

height accordingly

(Make sure the bottom of the big blue hose does not touch the round bit

where the accelerator cable goes round. It will stop the accelerator opening or make it stay open)

Assicurarsi che il fondo del tubo Big Blue non tocca il turno bit

in cui l'acceleratore cavo va round. Si fermerà l'acceleratore di apertura o di renderlo rimangono aperti

Speranza che questo aiuti Lupo Milano :)

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*** Update ***

Now made a bell mouth at work out of billet ali and fitted see pics below, ill report on how it performs

I got a 1mtr 70mm hose off ebay for £16 and fits perfectly

I can make some more of these if wanted if I can get 5 orders it will be worth it

IMGP1138.jpg

IMGP1139.jpg

IMGP1141.jpg

IMGP1142.jpg

IMGP1143.jpg

IMGP1146.jpg

IMGP1147.jpg

IMGP1149.jpg

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i already have this done but the bell mouth your using looks a fair bit bigger how much will these be?

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Nice, my BMC is pretty restrictive as I've linked it to the original hot / cold air thingy.

I keep forgetting to post up pictures but I'm going to be under the bonnet later so I'll post up a picture tonight for deffo. :)

Edited by Niche
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i already have this done but the bell mouth your using looks a fair bit bigger how much will these be?

About £30 - £35 if I could get a few people interested, I know it sounds a lot but I machined

it out of solid billet ali, the back end is 70mm for the hose but I can do this any size

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Image012Small.jpg

Image013Small.jpg

Image014Small.jpg

Image015Small.jpg

Image016Small.jpg

Image017Small.jpg

I humbly present the worlds first BMC Induction Kit which you actually can't hear! (You can blatantly see why)

I also humbly present the worlds first BMC with an internal oil breather pipe. :P

Nick.

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That's the Top Vee...!

Thanks for clearance...and good Italian...!

:lol:

Grazie Ragazzo...!

D.

Now push the silicon hose onto the reducer, it dosent need a jubilee clip

(Put the big blue hose onto the black plastic ring

that makes the hose fit the accelerator body)

a ) cause only two are supplied and

(Only 2 big round clips are in the kit) Solo 2 grandi clip sono tornata nel kit

B ) you might overtighten the clip and break the reducer, it is a real tight fit and dosent leak.

(If you use a big round clip it may break the plastic reducer)

Se si utilizza una grande rotonda clip può rompere il riduttore di plastica

NOW FOR THE MOST IMPORTANT BIT CHECK THE THROTTLE CABLE CAM DOSENT FOUL or you will either not gain full

throttle or the throttle could stick open and have disasterous results YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED. So adjust the

height accordingly

(Make sure the bottom of the big blue hose does not touch the round bit

where the accelerator cable goes round. It will stop the accelerator opening or make it stay open)

Assicurarsi che il fondo del tubo Big Blue non tocca il turno bit

in cui l'acceleratore cavo va round. Si fermerà l'acceleratore di apertura o di renderlo rimangono aperti

Speranza che questo aiuti Lupo Milano :)

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Lupo D Nessun problema dude

Well thought out Niche fits perfectly, I may do the same with the breather as

Ive noticed more petrol fumes than before with it, maybe coincidence

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That's not petrol fumes your smelling mate, what your smelling is oil! After a long drive you may be able to see some puff coming through your breather filter. That's what your smelling and it stinks!

I done that on my Polo Coupe S for a month after my carb conversion and I developed a tickly poofy cough which took a month to get rid of! So I can highly recommend everyone does so!

I used an extra bit of extra piping and two of these connectors...

77.01.00.27a.jpg

The hole in the 90 degree bend only needs to be half the size of the actual breather pipe as it stretches when you push the connector in making it completely sealed. I also used a mini cable tie and strapped it around the plastic connector part on the inside of the 90 degree bend locking it in place. Make sure its tight though otherwise it will slip off into your throttle body! The jagged edge of the connector will stop that happening so long as its pulled tight!

Edited by Niche
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  • 4 weeks later...

Guys,

I have just collated all relevant bits to do a BMC cda with direct cold air feed.

BUT.....

what do i do about the pipe coming off the exhaust manifold that seems to link into the intake system?

cos it aint got no place to go now!!

Your help will be much appreciated.

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Nothing, just take it off, that pipe only assists the engine in the winter to help the engine warm up quicker.

Ok, cool. I will be fitting it tonight. I thought the manifold would in effect 'blow' if the pipe wasnt connected, but i take it thats not the case.

Cant wait to get a bit of GRRRRR out of the loop. lol

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