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The definitive Pedal Box Thread


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My local VW dealership know of this issue and the goodwill gesture VW offer for the Lupo, but told me to get in touch with a Seat branch for my Arosa. The service manager at Seat isn't interested, he just wants the business. Phoned Seat to be told they don't have any issues with the pedal box on their system. Found that a bit hard to believe. Anyone had any luck with their Arosa?

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  • 1 month later...

Does this sound like bummed pedal box?

Had a long drive up north yesterday, when I got off the motorways and into the city it felt like my gearbox was getting major stiff to select gears, when I was driving into the carpark in first there was a real high whining or kind of whistling noise, when I got back to the car a few hours later it started fine but still with the stiff to engage box and whines, when I got it out of the carpark and tried to shift for second it was near impossible to get it in it was just like my clutch wasn't down at all. It got left in a parking space for a few more hours and when I came back to it late at night it was slightly easier to get the gears if I was gentle but still not right, once it was in the gears she drove fine and managed to get her home but with a whistling noise in every gear when accelerating. I thought pedal box but I could be wrong.

Thanks in advance for the help guys

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Our pedal box has gone at 55K miles, car was just under 8 years old but is now over......

RAC man showed me with his LED lamp and wrote it on a report.

VW are useless w4nkers and refuse to address the issue, the dealership will give a small discount which VW will match, but it's still cheaper to go to a local smaller firm as we need other work done, and the whole bill is not worth the effort and stress I'm going through trying to sort it out. Everyone is so full of bull5hit it's untrue. There are much more important things in my life.

VW is only going to fix your car if you've already wasted plenty of your cash on their overpriced servicing. Well, they can stick it.

Next time you go in a VW dealership, have a good look around at the shiny buildings of glass and offices full of 'customer service' people. Who pays for that...?

:angry:

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Hi all!

Well, I have also been an unfortunate victim of the dreaded clutch pedal box melodrama, so thanks to posters for the helpful info.

Lupi is W reg, 77000 miles on the clock and in pretty good nick for her age. She got towed to a large VW dealer on a saturday afternoon, so I left a wee note enquiring about goodwill considering the common nature of this problem. Ahem, got a call back late on the monday afternoon from service lady saying No, no goodwill as car is over 5 years old (Why this makes any difference is beyond me, it's not the age of the car that's the problem, it's the stinking design fault!) No goodwill at all, quote for repair £541 *cough, splutter, splutter*. Did a bit of enquiring around, independent garage in Byres road didn't even flinch "Oh yeah, common problem that, we know all about it" and qutoed £350 incl VAT, they'll even fetch the car for me. A smaller VW dealer quoted £309.61 incl VAT, which original dealer said they'd match if I got a written quote. I decided (very politely) to raise my middle finger at VW full stop and go with the independant garage.

I'm frankly disgusted. Considering the origin of the problem lies in the design, all affected vehicles should be repaired FOC regardless of age/mileage/service history etc.

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  • 2 months later...

Does anyone know if this pedal box issue is uk-specific or applies to european left-drive lupos as well?

i'm driving a 2001 lupo 1.4 highline, 112 000 km.

issue : the clutch pedal is hard, noisy (as if some lubrication was missing somewhere) and the clutch does not engage fully in some conditions.

result:

1st and 2nd gear are hard. To put the first gear when fully stopped you sometimes have to get in 2nd first and then up...

I was going to blame the cable before changing the whole clutch but this thread looks interesting...only problem, can't find anything similar on other forums.

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  • 3 months later...

anyone got a pic of an old versus new one ? i have some of the issues described and reckon a mate can TIG weld a support into an old style one so as to improve to the better design but a pic would be handy

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  • 2 months later...

I've just been quoted £900today to fix mine with a new clutch at a dealer's i told them no thank's, so now i'm looking around for a another garage in wiltshire that can do it cheaper.

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  • 3 weeks later...

This maybe isnt the best section for this question but im having some issues with getting gears on my 1 litre arosa mk2, i have changed the gearbox oil and selector shaft seal but its still the same, i have also tried greasing the linkages but the gears are still stiff?

Can anyone help please?

Thanks J

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  • 2 months later...

Would just like to add to this, seeing as I have been faced with the broken pedal box issue lately. We have a 2000 SDI with 127000 miles and the pedal box went last week. I knew straight away what it was as my Mums Polo did the exact same thing a year ago.

So, knowing the situation and that there was no point in chasing any dealerships, along with the costs of using a garage, I decided to tackle the job myself. After a long afternoon of swearing and agro, the pedal box is out.

IMG_0448.jpg

I am going to my mates tomorrow and we are going to weld it up around the entire bracket to strengthen it. The only thing I have bought is the plastic retainer that clips into the rear of the brake pedal (confirming what everyone else has stated about it being impossible to remove without breaking). I will also write up my method statement as it may be useful for anyone else facing this job. It's certainly helped me having all the info posted on this thread.

- Disconnect battery negative terminal - 10mm nut

- Remove driver seat (essential imo for work space) 2 x 13mm nuts at front center and remove 2 x plastic trim pieces that are fixed with 2 x phillips screws that are covered with blanking caps. Seat then slides back and out of the runners

- Remove steering cowling and other bits of plastic interior trim to expose steering column and fuses - a hole host of torx bolts

- Disconnect all electrics from steering column and tie to one side (so they dont drape in your face while you work). Pretty simple automotive connectors (one is covered in grey sponge!?) The black connector morphes into the plastic ring that surrounds the ignition barrel. I found this popped off with two small flat head screw drivers.

- Ah, now the fun bit.... SHEER BOLTS!!! I never understood why car companies use these to fix steering columns. Security bull****! Anyuway, some people on here mentioned using a sharp chisel and hammer to get them off. Well, this didn't work for me. Firstly they aren't small bolts (there is a lot of metal to chisel), secondly to room you have to hammer a chisel up there is very restricted. Even if you were to chisel a flat head "slot" into the bolts, it's still a nightmare. So, I opted to drill them out. I used a corded drill and some high speed steel drill bits, building up from about 2mm up to 15mm. This was still a pain and took me a long time. You have to drill your first pilot hole exactly in the center of the bolts or the job becomes harder (trust me I know). I also trimmed a little of the plastic either side of the column (won't be seen when it's all back) so that I could get the drill up there. I found it long, hard work on my back getting metal swarf in my eyes (wear glasses) but after some persistance they fall out. To me this was the hardest bit of the removal.

- Once that is done the steering column can be unbolted from the spline shaft in the footwell (covered by a piece of plastic trim with one small torx strew). Don't forget to maek with tippex the position for re-fitting, although mine actually came apart further up the joins???. The column then just pulls out.

- Now it's on to the pedal box itself. I first un-bolted the clutch pedal (13mm nut) and popped it off along with the nipple adjuster on top of it. Naturally the broken piece of metal in question followed... I think there was a connector or two to remove from here also.

- Now the brake pedal. If you remove to brake light switch (disconnect, twist and out) you can pull the pedal forward. Now the plastic clip that holds the pedal onto the servo rod. Yes you have to brake it, but I decided to weaken to retainers by drilling them on the left hand side using an angle/small drill. I then yanked the pedal forward and it popped off.

- Finally, undo 7 x 13mm nuts to get the pedal box out (+ one or two more electrical connectors). I had to push the servo out a bit for clearance.

So, thats where I'm up to. Took me ages really, though the sheer bolts really took up most of the time. Would love to know an easier way of removing them. Tomorrow Im getting it repaired and will put it all back... Hopefully in time for tea.

Martin :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Feel bad this being my 1st post but any help much appreciated!...

Currently half way through doing this job on my girlfriend's car (2000 lupo 1.4), she went to vw today and got 2 sheer bolts and the plastic clip for the brake pedal.

However, the clip is slightly different and doesnt have the 2 circular bits on each side to hold it in place that the old one did (which i have sadly snapped), the part number was 1H2721169 as stated in numerous posts on this forum.

I've seen the pictures on the how to of the different clips but wondered if there was a different part number.

The guy in vw apparently wasn't very helpful and said that we'd need a new brake pedal which is when she rang me and I gave her that part number, thinking it would fit.

Any ideas? maybe he got it wrong? Trying to find an exploded parts catalog to check for myself but vagcat doesn't seem to be working and i cant find any other info doh

Paul

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Car has been to a local garage and they say its not the pedal box... the thing is there is this niggle in the back of my mind that I just know the car is not right.

All the symptoms as stated in page one of this thread. I may just have to get the part and wait till it does go.

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  • 1 month later...

Thanks for the info.

I discovered my pedal box had broken clean away when I changed the clutch cable (cable fine, pedal box was the problem).

As Tempory fix till the new pedal box is fitted, I found a 32mm 1/2" socket used as a cable stop in the bulk head will work fine (the socket I had was a perfect fit for the cable and the hole in the bulk head, measure your's first).

The clutch pedal sits about 1/2 inch higher than the break pedal, but if you need the car running till you can make arrangements for a loaner, then this will see you tidy for a short while (and saves a knacked clutch plate/gear box).

Obviously this isn't as good as a new pedal box.

Robert.

Edited by robertiles
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  • 5 months later...

Mine has been creaking for a few months now and the clutch pedal has dropped a decent amount. Just got to see how much long it will hold out till I get time. Few questions though, where is best to get the replacement? Dealers or eBay etc.? What's a rough price for the part?

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Thiry quid ish for the part. Might as well get a brand new from vw cos it's a common thing to go. If you go to a scrappy then it may end up going again. Also, it'd be a pain in the arse to get one out a scrappy...unless of course the steering column is already removed.

If it's starting to go then you'd be best getting it done asap otherwise you might end up stranded!!

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Thought about the scrappy but like you said its not worth the hassle of looking to see if it decent. And cheers for the help on the price, just waiting for my unit to be sorted as I only get weekends off and can't garantee the weather, will just have to stop using the clutch ha. Cheers again pete

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  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...

Aftnoon all

i need help in confirmng if mine has gone.

naturally the clutch pedal sits lower than the brake BUT i can lift it back and it stays, as soon as i press it down it stays in the lower position.

Looking under the dash i cant feel anything broken in the place that the break happens but i can see the following :

image2.jpg

Looking at the clutch pedal, mine doesn't look the same as the ones I've seen :

image1.jpg

I've also circled the above as these 2 aren't clipped to anything but do move together when you pull them towards you, if someone can enlighten me to what they do would be much appreciated.

Thanks

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