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Tigz™

Lupo GTI Turbo conversion

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A selection of photos from throughout the build in slide show.

Got woke up this morning to take delivery of my new engine.

It is from a 2000 Polo 1.4 75hp 16v accident damaged motor.

It has 20k miles on the clock, and led an untrashed life in an old birds car.

Im hoping susspitions are right, as I went for the 75hp engine due to the cable linkage in place, and the fact that the Intake and ECU will be replaced.

Fingers crossed this is the case.

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Bought the Jenvey Throttle bodies, fuel rail and throttle pot from http://www.badger5.co.uk/

Once delivered a new inlet manifold will be designed and machined.

Twin bore bodies.

TH - Twin Bodies. Horizontal flange, 91mm long. Drawing

Twin 40mm T.Body pair Part Number: THP40i

The type TH body is designed to fit the same flanges as Twin horizontal carburettors from Weber, Dellorto, Solex etc. It is a compact body allowing long air horns to be used within a given system length. The fuel rails overhang the inlet flange unless short (eg. Pico) injectors are used.

All sizes are fitted with idle bypass adjustment. 'O' rings, throttle pot clamp and other fittings are supplied with all kits.

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The crappy VW ECU will be replaced with a Mega Squirt unit.

ecu008copy.jpg border="0" class="linked-image" /> border="0" class="linked-image" /> border="0" class="linked-image" />

No idea how this is going to turn out, Im hoping it will be possable to complete most if not all the work needed.

An S3 or high powered TT could provide me with a Lamber Sender unit that I can hook up to for tuneing, but again, this is speculation.

I know it Should be possable to do it.

Just dont know how sucessful it will be.

Away on my Hols today.

So will be getting started the week I get back.

Wish me luck!

Engine Removal Start

VW Imobiliser Information

DTA ECU Information

Guide to Air Horns

Question regarding Vacume feed

Information regarding the use of Bike TBs

A selection of photos from throughout the build in slide show.

paint code is : B102

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best of british mate - keep us posted with regular updates - although i'm not expecting mitch unit type progress!!!

have a good holiday matey! wink.gif style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=";)" border="0" alt="wink.gif" />

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i'm not expecting mitch unit type progress!!!

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

laugh.gif style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":lol:" border="0" alt="laugh.gif" /> Nar I think this could go on as long as my Kitchen has.

Just off to mop choppers then Im gone tongue.gif style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":P" border="0" alt="tongue.gif" />

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mega squirt laugh.gif style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":lol:" border="0" alt="laugh.gif" />

good luck mate

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Good luck! Hope it doesn't take as long as my driver has. laugh.gif style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":lol:" border="0" alt="laugh.gif" />

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good luck mate- Youll need it if that kitchens anything to go by rolleyes.gif style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":rolleyes:" border="0" alt="rolleyes.gif" />

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Good Luck to ya Tigz matey

Keep us posted with pics etc

have a nice holiday

T

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Thanks for the best wishes guys.

think Im gonna need it

Got started today.

Dunno how Mitch got so much done in a day, all Ive managed is the bodywork removed!

Come across a couple of problems so far.

Took off the engine cover and found the Loop doesn't have cable but flyby wire, like the larger engined models.

Im hoping this shouldn't be too much of a probem, as Id imagen the pedel box would have the option of fitting a cable?

The mounts on both engines have identical part numbers, so at least thats one possable issue cleared up.

Just gotta remove the crash bar at the front, and drop the zaust, then Im hoping to drop the engine out tommorrow after work.

Thought Id feel a little better about it all once I got started but Im getting more and more worried lol.

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DSC00002.jpg border="0" class="linked-image" /> border="0" class="linked-image" /> border="0" alt="" />

Edited by Tigz

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just take your time, sure it ends up well smile.gif style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" />

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Ok guys bit of a dilemma.

As I’m looking more and more into this, the amount of work needed is building up and up.

This is obviously very scary, but I can cope with the fear.

The main problem is the amount of things I have to buy.

Something I didn't worry about too much was the flywheel and trigger sensor.

Because I had one, already fitted, with a vw part number it didn't even dawn on me, that there was a possibility that I may need to mod something to fit.

Big thanks to Clifford, who has checked and told me I need a 60-2 tooth trigger wheel.

Now I've checked in my posh book, and it tells me that Vauxhall use a 60-2 trigger wheel.

I was happy with that.

Mean it should be cheap.

Slowly dawned on me, it would have to be the identical diameter also (??).

So I called my friend, one of our engineers. He built a Mini race car, as his project for collage, that he than raced when he was working.

He says just get one modded from a vw part.

Get it lightened at the same time.

This really makes sense.

I also understand it?, I may need to change the bottom end.

If I understand this right (sorry I haven’t looked into this, I just was told it so if I get it mixed up mate I apologise) When you open up the bottom end, to get to the crank. If it is an alu block, you can’t get the tolerances right when trying to put it back together.

I also think its stupid doing all this, without fitting cams, and as I don’t believe threes any 180 cams out there for a 1400 6N engine these would be best to be machined.

The head needs polishing.

I would also like to see if a 6 speed box would fit.

If I fitted the engine, with the 75hp loom, so I can still use the car till I have the parts I need, and the cash for the 'extra' things.

It would also show any engine problems, before hopefully almost doubling the power.

The problem with this is, I want it to be as painless as possible, as I don’t want to start messing with wiring looms, as this will mean that Id be doing it twice as I’m going to have to do that after fitting the boddies.

So I don’t want to fit an ignition set.

I don’t know if this is right, if someone could confirm please?

As far as I know, the immobiliser is built into the ECU?

If I fit the new ECU the immobiliser won’t work.

On a Merc van, it is not possible to change the code at the ECU.

They use the ECU to syncrinise with the new fresh key if you/someone loses them.

Now I don’t know if it is the same with a VW.

If it is, does this mean that the only thing I would need to do, would be get a key cut with my cars chassis number, the get it coded using the chassis number from the Polo donor car?

Sorry for the essay, I have thought about it for two days, and it’s starting to give me a headache

wacko.gif style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":wacko:" border="0" alt="wacko.gif" />

Edited by Tigz

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Suggest you check out the Immobiliser Information Pages about 1/4 the way down this page.

I don't know which applies to the Lupo/Polo, but I bet one of them does.

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Thanks Snoop.

why did I know you'd have the info smile.gif style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" />

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I'd avoid taking taking the crank or rods apart unless you totally have to. In my experience, your first engine that you take apart runs a high risk of blowing up. I know a few people this has happened to, although tbh they were on a R6 and an A-Series engine.

You can get a trigger for the ECU from the cams. RS Elec should sell the appropriate sensors and it's just a case of drilling a hole in the cam cover and taking a reading off one of the gears. Otherwise, the flywheel will probably do too. It just depends on the space you have to work with.

I would seriously recommend trying to get a DTA ECU. We use them on the Formula Student car and there are a lot of options. It'll calculate the air mass flow rate too rather than requiring measurement which helps a lot. I'm heading up the engine group for the team next year and I'm gonna try and get hold of the mapping programme to learn it next week, so I may be able to give you a hand. There's a link here: http://www.dtafast.co.uk/e48exp.htm to the one you'd need. It says it's software programmable for VW Crank wheels too which might mean you could just stick with the standard sensor. If my memory serves me right they're about £500-£700 which is probably worth the money.

EDIT: You can download the mapping software for free here: http://www.dtafast.co.uk/dtawin.zip

Edited by ArosaMike

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Dont get me wrong mike, it would be real nice, but its £600!, thats more than Ive spent on everything else, including the price of a megasquirt!

I just havn't got the cash for that sort of kit, Im over budget already, and I just cant go any higher.

Its a shame, as the DTA looks great, the launch control looks wicked, and I know, mapping would be a hell of a lot simpler with that, but other than that I cant see how I could justify the price.

Thanks for the info on the cam sensor, I'll look into that, as it would be a hell of a lot more straight forward.

Thanks for the advice smile.gif style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" />

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Dont get me wrong mike, it would be real nice, but its £600!, thats more than Ive spent on everything else, including the price of a megasquirt!

I just havn't got the cash for that sort of kit, Im over budget already, and I just cant go any higher.

Its a shame, as the DTA looks great, the launch control looks wicked, and I know, mapping would be a hell of a lot simpler with that, but other than that I cant see how I could justify the price.

Thanks for the info on the cam sensor, I'll look into that, as it would be a hell of a lot more straight forward.

Thanks for the advice smile.gif style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" />

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

No problem mate. I guessed it probably was a bit pricey. I'd struggle to justify it. I'm not sure, but I think we're gonna try and move to Motec as a managements system as although they're mega expensive, they're obviously better. If we do plan to get rid of any of the older DTA boxes I'll let you know. The team are always looking to get money from old things, so I imaging it might go for £100-£200. There's probably a 5-10% chance it will happen blush.gif style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":blush:" border="0" alt="blush.gif" />

With regards to measurement off the cam.....I'm guessing the MegaSquirt will let you specify the dia and number of teeth on the measurement wheel. The cams should just run at a ratio to the crank (as in it won't be geared up or anything) and the speed will just be dependent on the size of the crank gear. I don't have my computer here at the moment as I'm at home rather than Uni tonight, but I can have a look on ELSA on Thursday and see if there's any info on it and see what the clearances are like. You'd basically just need to drill a hole and then weld the mounting onto the cover.

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This is the kind of sensor you'd need. http://rswww.com/cgi-bin/bv/browse/Module....stockNo=2355706 Not totally sure what ouput you'd need but it certainly looks similar to the one we used.

Edited by ArosaMike

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what sort of figures are you hoping for tigz?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I'm sure he'd see it just as well if you only posted it once tongue.gif style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":P" border="0" alt="tongue.gif" /> laugh.gif style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":lol:" border="0" alt="laugh.gif" />

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Mike your a star.

Liking the price of the sensor also wink.gif style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=";)" border="0" alt="wink.gif" />

Not sure I understand it, yet, but Im off to find some pics of a cam shaft to try and work it out.

Im assuming theres a gear at the end of the cam then?

What would the sensor use to pick up on (by this I meen, the trigger wheel uses a missing tooth), what would be used on the cam?

If theres a DTA up for grabs in the future give us a shout bud. smile.gif style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" />

Thanks again Mike.

smerko I have no idea what to expect.

Without cams and headwork (which looks a little pointless at the moment) I think 130-140hp would be pretty realistic.

Hopefully once it was all done, Id like to think 160hp would be possable.

As I say, I have no idea, all I can go on is speculation.

Would be very pleased with 160hp though swerve.gif style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":swerve:" border="0" alt="swerve.gif" />

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Thinking about it, on the 1.4 it's a belt driven camshaft so there will be two big wheels under the plastic cover on the left of the engine. If you take the cam cover off it should look similar to this:

Cam_cover_off.jpg border="0" class="linked-image" /> border="0" class="linked-image" /> (that's an MX5 engine)

You should therefore not have to do any drilling. I was thinking of the Yamaha R6 bike engines, cause they have a chain driven cam shaft which is contained in the block. I think what you'd need to do then is file one of the grooves off the wheel so there's a gap (should be OK as there is a fair amount of teeth in contact with the belt). I didn't see how they did it on last years car but I'll have a look when I next go in. As that sensor works on sensing when there isn't a ferrous metal next to it you might get away by sticking something non ferrous like ally on the gear wheel. Another option would be to drill a small hole in the wheel itself a set distance from the centre. You'd need to ask RS about how strong the definition needs to be for the sensor though, and also, there might be issues with regards balance if you start adding or taking away material from the cam wheel. I'm not really sure what the deal with that is, so perhaps someone like Bill Brockbank might be able to answer that one!

Edited by ArosaMike

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well if the megasquirt could be programmed like that it would be nice smile.gif style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" />

if you look at the cam cover you will see there is a cam sensor already (hall sendor) , thats how VW run the engine, but that wont work with megasquirt

you would need to have a 60-2 wheel on the pulley side of the engine with a sendor reading off there, thats how mega does the timing

i have had a look at my other gti engine and it has a speed sensor plate on the end of the crankshaft, i have to take the flywheel off to have a look at it, maybe later

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Ok this is what I have.

Using a toothed wheel is and option for a distributorless operation. You can buy wheels from Ford and Vauxhall which can be adapted to your own engine.

The ford wheel has 36-1 tooth pattern, while the vauxhall wheel has 60-2.

Basicly, if you are going to mount either wheel to your crankshaft you start by desideing where the sensor is going to sit.

Once you have desided on the sensor position (probably dictated by the most convenient bracket location), you then need to position the crankshaft to the refrence setting. Ford use a refrence of 90º  BTDC on cylnders one and four, while Vauxhall (Bosch) use 120º BTDC. Basicly the first tooth after the gap in the timeing wheel needs to pass the sensor when the crankshaft is positioned at the given refrence setting.

With the trigger wheel positioned so that the first tooth after the gap is aligned with the sensor pick up, fix the trigger wheel to the crankshaft in this position.

It may sound complicated, but if you follow the above sequence you will not get it wrong.

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So do I understand this right Clifford, can the wheel be fitted behind this main pully?

Behind the cover of course.

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And seen as I went out to take the cam cover off before I read this, I'll post the bloody pic anyway lol

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