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Lupo GTI ITB conversion.


LINCOLNSHIRESLUPOGTI
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He told me today (hope this does not tempt fate) but car should be back to me all done by the end of this month,

Well if you want a lift to go and pick it up let me know, cant wait to hear it fire up!

Could also take some Pics and Vid for you wink.gif style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=";)" border="0" alt="wink.gif" />

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Cheers for the offer of a lift mate, should be ok though as the workshop where the car is being worked on is only 2 miles from work.

You are near the top of the list for passeneger rides though but want to get it all running perfect before I start taking people in it as that way I can give it everything without worrying it may not be running spot on.

I remember the day I picked my mini up with its full race engine in. I walked onto the industrial estate and heard this massive crackle and an engine burst into life, idle for 30 seconds then rev up a few times. It sounded like a stock car with its rough note and bangs. Then it stopped. I got to Mikes and asked what the hell he had been running to make that noise just then and he said "your mini". He was just making sure it would start before I got there.

I will be bursting to hear my car fire up and idle with its rough note. Been thinking today I may smash the pre-cat out while it is on the ramps (still not managed to source a full tubular manifold yet) and the new ECU wont be throwing up warning lights on the dash. Keeping cat as Motec can full full modern standards of emmission control with a cat retained.

Edited by LINCOLNSHIRESLUPOGTI
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cant wait hear this buddy good to hear its coming a long quickly wink.gif style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=";)" border="0" alt="wink.gif" />

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  • 2 weeks later...

Car still not gone in yet, starting to get a little annoyed now although I appreciate the wiring loom expert is having to do some thorough research before he starts.

Bought new brakes last night to give me something to do while car is offf the road. New discs and pads all round. Got some slotted discs this time as noticed my drilled frint discs have warped slightly so hoping the slotted will cool slightly better. Bought Pagid pads all round again though as the current set have lasted 35000 miles so far!

Just got to buy new slider seals now and some slider grease then if car is not in by next week the brakes and suspension are being taken off and thoroughly serviced.

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Car goes in this coming Tuesday.

Bodies have been fitted to manifold and all lnkeges trimmed and ground to suit (were too big as my port spacing is very close).

Loom is being done first and if the motor for my existing drive by wire has enough torque to drive aginst 4 throttle body return springs I may have drive by wire throttle bodies.

Hope it is ready for end of the month still.

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Had all the suspension off today. Cleaned it all, regreased it and painted front hubs in underseal so they look matt black, boring and standard.

Checked all bushes, ball joints and track rod ends and all rubber gaitors. All in order so no more money required I hope.

Painted exhaust black again to freshen it up and polished tail pipes with autosol.

Car goes in Tuesday so not going to get new brakes fitted but not a problem as can do them when it comes back and bed them in at same time as doing the running in and checking the new engine map.

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After having the car worked on yesterday here are the main findings.

1. The VW drive by wire does not look like it can be mated to drive my throttle bodies so pretty certain I am having a throttle cable fitted to drive them.

2. Had lower dash out and looks like upper dash can stay in the car and we can still get the drive by wire out and fit the new throttle pedal.

3. Variable cam timing is as "Tshirt2k" has already said controlled electrically which means my ecu will control it and also the change over point can be optimised during mapping.

4. The Motec ecu is being located under the passenger airbag behind the cover in the space where the glove box isn't. A VW adaptor plug is being wired onto the Motec unit so the existing loom from the standard ecu can just be plugged straight in and not a single wire from the engine bay or original loom needs to be hacked.

5. Only potential problem is crank triggering depending on the VW method and if it is readable by the Motec ecu. If not then worst case is a new crank trigger wheel needs making and fitting...crank pulley is very close to the chassis rail so space is tight.

6. VW alarm will still work with ecu off so no need to buy a new alarm. I am having a transponder immobiliser fitted though as current immobiliser will only immobilise the VW ecu...pretty pointless considering it wont be doing much. Immobilisation of starter cranking and all output signals from ecu and thatcham approved obviously.

7. All elctrical work should take 2-3 days drive in-drive out.

*The individual throttle bodies with a linkage between each adjacent pair are so close. If the port spacing had been any closer these bodies could not be used without a gooseneck inlet manifold. My inlet manifold is dead straight and about 120mm long from intake flange to head flange.

Got some nice carbon fibre trumpets but doubt they will be visible once air filter is fitted. Also the roll in (bell end for want of a better term) flanges of these need flattening on the edges as again with the port spacing being so close the trumpets overlap.

Edited by LINCOLNSHIRESLUPOGTI
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5. Only potential problem is crank triggering depending on the VW method and if it is readable by the Motec ecu. If not then worst case is a new crank trigger wheel needs making and fitting...crank pulley is very close to the chassis rail so space is tight.

The VW ECU takes it feed from a cam shaft sensor.

I have a spare pully which I bought to have a boss for the trigger wheel made up.

If you want to use that to get the work done without him having to strip yours down your welcome to.

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3. Variable cam timing is as "Tshirt2k" has already said controlled electrically which means my ecu will control it and also the change over point can be optimised during mapping.

i recently pulled one of these engines apart

saw utterly nothing to prove that

the cams run on a tensioner thats all i saw

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The vvt is a solenoid type thing that alters the cam timing. It shows in ELSA that the cam timing can be checked and adjusted, that means that the cam can move slightly on the cam wheel.

It is adjusted by locking the cam wheels in place and turning the cams to the correct position. With a special "Vw tool". rolleyes.gif style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":rolleyes:" border="0" alt="rolleyes.gif" />

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The vvt is a solenoid type thing that alters the cam timing. It shows in ELSA that the cam timing can be checked and adjusted, that means that the cam can move slightly on the cam wheel.

It is adjusted by locking the cam wheels in place and turning the cams to the correct position. With a special "Vw tool". rolleyes.gif style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":rolleyes:" border="0" alt="rolleyes.gif" />

and how is this connected to the engine management system?

i found no traces of a connector of any kind

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TDW

No pictures, sorry. I am in the dark ages and still have not got a digital camera!

Tshirt

The vvt is a solenoid type thing that alters the cam timing.

I pointed the connector out to the guy doing my engine work and from first impression he agreed with what you said that the plug 'near' the oil filler cap is for the VVC controller.

It shows in ELSA that the cam timing can be checked and adjusted, that means that the cam can move slightly on the cam wheel.

biggrin.gif style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":D" border="0" alt="biggrin.gif" /> I like the sound of this. May be tweaking the cam adjustment then during the mapping sessions.

Tigz

The VW ECU takes it feed from a cam shaft sensor.

That may prove useful info, thanks mate. Could this be the other lead on the top of the cam cover, the one at the coil pack end I wonder?

I have a spare pully which I bought to have a boss for the trigger wheel made up.

Thanks for offer but Mike will make me a wheel in no time. it will have to be made specifically to the timing the Motec ECU works from. Suspect something like 36 teeth with a tooth missing to indicate TDC though I am not actually sure on the configuration as yet.

Edited by LINCOLNSHIRESLUPOGTI
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Thanks for offer but Mike will make me a wheel in no time. it will have to be made specifically to the timing the Motec ECU works from. Suspect something like 36 teeth with a tooth missing to indicate TDC though I am not actually sure on the configuration as yet.

I also need a 36/1 trigger wheel, so if he fancys making two to cut costs let me know mate wink.gif style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=";)" border="0" alt="wink.gif" />

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I will know next week what trigger he is making as he is getting the info from Motec this week on what Motec ecu reads from.

Once I know I will ask him about the trigger wheel. Thickness, diameter, tooth spacing and number of teeth ecetera yeah. Will let you know when I do. If we use the same wheel we will both need the same pick up sensor so can buy two of those as well.

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Ah yes, good thinking.

I need either a 36-1 or 60-2

I think it will be the same for the Motec.

It is for every other system Ive looked at.

Think its because its the standard trigger wheel on Ford and Vauxhalls.

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Think its because its the standard trigger wheel on Ford and Vauxhalls

If we are really lucky the VW system may also trigger from a 36-1 then. That way we can use the existing trigger.

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If you look on the top of the head, theres a L shaped plug.

Isn't that for VVT?

TB2.JPG border="0" class="linked-image" /> border="0" alt="IPB Image" />

all that is, is a removeable sensor, i assume it just replaces the hall effect part of a car with a proper dizzy

there is no connection between that and the tensioning device

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@ daz:sounds like its going be special motor once running, do you actually do any work at siemens or is it all on your car?? laugh.gif style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":lol:" border="0" alt="laugh.gif" />

@ tigz: those throttle bodies for your motor??

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