Pedal box workaround/hack

[decvalts]

Here's a how to for the easier pedal box 'fix'. It's mentioned elsewhere and on other forums but don't think there's a guide here. I did this on my SDI but should be the same on other models.

For this method, it doesn't matter whether the pedal box bracket has snapped off entirely, or still remains attached, it will work either way. (Though if it has sheared badly, you might need to snap it all the way off or bend it back a bit)

When the pedal box begins to fail, there are two options,

1) replace the pedal box entirely with a new one (involves removing all kinds of trim, steering column, drilling through shear bolts, snapping the brake light clip etc.).

- OR -

2) Remount the clutch cable against the bulkhead of the engine bay with an M12 square washer.

Tools & parts:

10mm & 13mm short spanners
M12 Square washer or similar large flat washer about 50-60mm in diameter

Optional:

New clutch cable (maybe a good idea to just replace since it's out anyway, but not required)
Extra spare washers (You might need to mod the clutch cable to give yourself a bit more slack as we change the point where the outer cable sits, giving you less cable at the other end)
M12 rubber washer/grommit (gives the cable outer sheath something softer to brace against.)

Method:

1. Remove the trim from underneath the driver's glovetray area so you have a better view of the pedal area when looking up into it
2. Slacken off the clutch cable at the gearbox end with the 10mm and 13mm spanners.
3. Remove the cable by sliding it out to the right towards the battery and unhook
4. Press the clutch pedal down to pull out the cable into the footwell as far is it goes.
5. Remove the clutch cable inner cable from the pedal. This should push up and out of the little groove in the top of the pedal casing but you may need some pliers to help grip it as the space is tight for fingers!
6. (You can remove the clutch pedal itself to help with this.) 
7. Now, removing the old clutch cable entirely, pull out the rubber seal that covers the hole between the engine bay and footwell. We are going to put the washer plate here and brace the outer part of the clutch cable against it.
8. An M12 washer plate should be the perfect size for the flange of the clutch cable outer to seat against nicely. I added a rubber grommet/washer of the same diameter to give a bit more protection. (pictured)
9. With the new clutch cable, you probably need to undo the adjustment bolts to near the maximum (i.e. at the end of the thread almost). The downside is you won't have much adjustment left in the cable with this method. 
10. There's a bunch of thick spacers and washers at the end of the clutch cable, I removed a few of these and padded it back out with thinner washers to give a bit more play. 
11. Pop the metal washer over the pedal end of the clutch cable, seating it up against the washer, it will move around for now but once everything is tightened it will hold itself in place against the bulkhead. 
12. Thread the inner cable back into the clutch pedal, hooking in the stopper end to the correct position and making sure it is seated down.
13. Reattach the clutch cable at the other end to the gearbox lever, seating it correctly in the two holsters on the gearbox. Adjust the cable end retaining nuts as necessary til clutch pedal is operating as normal. 

Clutch cable outer braced against the M12 washer. (Note that this normally braced against the clutch pedal bracket that snaps)

 

Routing of the clutch cable inner (hard to picture this in my head when I was lying face up on my back looking up but makes sense when you get your eye in). The purple circle is the stopper for the inner cable. You need to pull this towards the driver seat then push it upwards and it should pop out of the groove which you can't see from this angle.

I've modified the washer layout in the new clutch cable here. You don't need *all* those washers/spacers and you'll need to remove a few to give you enough slack in the cable.

Edited November 24 by decvalts
pictures

[mk2]

Makes me wonder why Vdub didn't simply mount the cable on the bulkhead in the first place. It's how it is secured in many cars. Can you think of any reasons (apart from cable radius being a bit tight)?

[decvalts]

Yeah once I'd done this I didn't understand it either why they'd used a separate bracket on the pedal box, the radius probably the only thing I can think of but I haven't had any issues so far.

(Expanded the post now with some detailed steps and more pictures)

[mk2]

I'll pin this as a reference! Good post. 👍🏻

[Rich]

Mk1s used to rip the clutch cable out the bulkhead, probably why they didn't bother after that. 

I have seen this bodge before.