My new daily project with a 1.4 TDI

[FraH2o]

During the week I finished the timimg, which with the double tensioner is not as smart as those with a single tensioner.

But between elsa and autodata, I managed to finish this job.

Then  I renewed the rocker cover gasket

And finally, a new lower gear bolt tightened to 120nm + 90 degrees.
A good friend lent me a self made tool to block the pulley and I managed to tighten it

 

 

[FraH2o]

Just only the clutch and I am almost at the end of the reassembly of the engine group

The rising engine project is looming.
To have the most precise dimensions possible, I decided to open the engine mount to have the base as a reference for the support areas

I Calculate the areas and  I will opt for steel plates to raise the whole.

 

[mk2]

When you raise the engine to give you a bit more ground clearance, I think the only bit you have to watch is the cam belt cover. You're gonna have to reassemble the entire front end just to check the bonnet clearance. I'd go for minimum 10mm. Maybe 15...?🤷🏻‍♀️

You'll need to raise the gearbox by the same amount. I don't think raising it by 30mm will affect anything else, like coolant hoses, air ducting, exhaust or gearshift mech. Maybe 40mm?

Looking good 👍🏻

 

[FraH2o]

On 4/22/2022 at 12:13 PM, mk2 said:

When you raise the engine to give you a bit more ground clearance, I think the only bit you have to watch is the cam belt cover. You're gonna have to reassemble the entire front end just to check the bonnet clearance. I'd go for minimum 10mm. Maybe 15...?🤷🏻‍♀️

You'll need to raise the gearbox by the same amount. I don't think raising it by 30mm will affect anything else, like coolant hoses, air ducting, exhaust or gearshift mech. Maybe 40mm?

Looking good 👍🏻

 

Thanks for advice Mk2. I raised all to 15mm renewing all engine mount.

I think the problem should be with the clearence between downpipe and stabilizer bar.

In the next post I'll share the progress

[FraH2o]

Last friday I notched.

I used a 4mm thick piece of tube, shaped with a mallet and anvil

 

[mk2]

You must add a plate to each side of the cut. 

Make a round disc, about 200mm diameter. Cut a hole out of the centre, the same size as your notch. It looks like a giant steel washer. Cut in half. Weld on each side. Make two (4 halves). 

Minimum 5mm steel.

[FraH2o]

19 hours ago, mk2 said:

You must add a plate to each side of the cut. 

Make a round disc, about 200mm diameter. Cut a hole out of the centre, the same size as your notch. It looks like a giant steel washer. Cut in half. Weld on each side. Make two (4 halves). 

Minimum 5mm steel.

MK2 thank you for your advice and i speak with my welder
After 3 notches on my cars (2 mk3 and a Polo 6n2), I have never welded any additional external plates.
The welder who notches the whole company of friends (he made a lot) has always recommended  to use a 5 mm arc with an extra edge for welding, this is already good as a reinforcement.
Then I can be wrong, but in 60000 km with the mk3 tdi in daily use, for the moment no problem

[mk2]

It is important in case there is an accident- the front of the car has to collapse in the right way.

[FraH2o]

41 minutes ago, mk2 said:

It is important in case there is an accident- the front of the car has to collapse in the right way.

Ah....that's right  😅

[FraH2o]

I continue with the work

Gearbox side support  replaced, clutch mounted and gearbox rejoined to engine block

I replaced 2 components of the electrical system.

New glow plug bridge, but which I covered like on golf with aluminum tape and paper as heat shield to prevent future plastic and rubber crack .... I saw a similiar modded harness seen on the Neuspeed website (if i weel remember). I laso did the same work on my MK3 tdi and after 4 year the platicplug harenss is still soft as new....so this home made shield seems to work good

And at least I replaced the plug of expansion tank

 

 

[FraH2o]

I raised the whole powertrain-gearbox by 15mm:  checking the contact/support surface of the engine mounts to the frame, the area is really small.
The gearbox side has a less contact area than the surface of the washer itself.
The timimg side is almost even, I used the plate of the old support both to distribute the load and to obviate the step created by the overlapping of welded sheets.

To start, I raised in a very fast way with 40mm washer.

For the moment I check all clearence and height with these washer, I'm waiting  to made aluminum plates with the same shape as the supports.
But I can at least go ahead in assembly of the rest

 

 

[FraH2o]

And I finished the work of the notch.... at the beginning I was to do the classic similar oem work, "in ghost way" which seems to have been done by vw.

At least i decided to dedicate the notch for that May 2014 in Woerthersee with  my Mk3 Gti and friendly Austrian Police.

Masking of the area .... the  cranck pulley was almost perfect diameter and then first coat of waterproofing

Second coat of white for base and suddendly the fluo red and finally matt clear ...

With love to my friends who will have made 300 euros of drinks offered by me

 

[FraH2o]

I go on and as usual the works are chained, bringing to light the usual defects of vw.

I Raised ABS pump for consequent raising of the gearbox engine mount bracket.

My dashboard has a notorius defect: the coating has partially detached and has created unwatchable bubbles ... in the meantime as I write this, I have already found another dashboard

With the dashboard down, i decided to prevent another problem, so I renew the heater core
Another defect (like on golf Mk3) is the old sponge on the internal bulkhead
So take it all down to clean and replace.

Then I found a passage in the firewall to pass pipe for turbo pressure gauge and cable for oil pressure gauge sensor.
Not to be cool or F&F, but the usual three gauges (turbo, oil pressure and voltmeter ) always help me to control and check the health of this little AMF

I opened the heater unit, I cleaned all and with aluminum tape and cardboard  I closed the holes and remade the new coating.

 

[mk2]

Beautiful work 👍🏻

You have to write a how-to remove the dashboard, as you put it all back together again. OMG! It would help so many people... Great photos

Put the 'how-to' in here- https://forums.clublupo.co.uk/index.php?/forum/23-the-archive-quothow-toquot-and-quotinformationquot/

 

Edited May 7, 2022 by mk2

[FraH2o]

On 5/7/2022 at 3:40 PM, mk2 said:

Beautiful work 👍🏻

You have to write a how-to remove the dashboard, as you put it all back together again. OMG! It would help so many people... Great photos

Put the 'how-to' in here- https://forums.clublupo.co.uk/index.php?/forum/23-the-archive-quothow-toquot-and-quotinformationquot/

 

Thanks Mk2....yes for sure if i cab help other people that want to selfmade this work.

 

[FraH2o]

I go on with my mental troubles. 🤦‍♂️

I'm waiting the heating core to reassemble the whole group and to re-connect easily  the hydraulic circuit.

Yesterday I received the dashboard to replace mine due to the partial detachment of the upholstery .

Here mine with bubble.

There's a premise to be made.
Vw produced 4,805,900 golf mk3s and made a unique dashboard (indeed that of the golf mk 3.5 cabrio is fitted with P&P)

They made 500,000 Lupo and made 3 or 4 different versions of the dashboard .... small but different ones ... .. which makes me smile mixed annoyed.

In any case, I share the new hole in which I got myself into.

Finding mine with the same code, unless  spend between 150 and 190 euros for shipping only (for a total of 300 euros) was unthinkable.

Found one on ebay at 43 euros, then taken from the spare parts website at 39 euros… .but with some differences
The one above is mine

First differences:
 
My 2002 lupo has  cup holder under central vent-din compartment
The donor 1999 lupo (petrol) has  mini console with buttons (hazard, defroster etc)

Mine has a glove box.
The 1999 donor has an open shelf.
The difference is a central crosspiece on the subframe, the position of the holes we are identical

My lupo also has an additional bracket for the glovebox.
The donor does not have one.

Notice the differences I started working

Armed with Dremel I removed the crossbar and so far nothing complicated

Another mod: remove the bracket from my ex and swap it to the "new"dash. 
It was heat-sealed .... so a little heat gun, and a metal blade for detachment .... but first I marked the position even if the assembly is quite straight fit.
I Assembled, and i brutally fixed with 3 parker screws that are full ghost once assembled .... it all fits.

The slightly more complicated part.
Adapt and arrange the compartment for the mini console cup holder and objects. Here too dremel

Once the console is right position with the dashboard, I have identified where to fix the staples.

Once the entire lower part is assembled for final control, everything is good fit and looking good: all is solid and in its place. 
I would say that we fixed this too and finally no unwatchable bubble  .... for the cost of 39 euros

Another problem to fix: the "loving hands" who disassembled this 99 break the screw attachments of the air duct that connects to the heater unit. Damaged parts circled in red.

I Disassembled (and luckily it disassembles well) the duct from my dash for replacement (after replacing all the foam around)

 

 

 

[mk2]

A low temperature soldering iron is what I use to 'weld' plastic pieces back together. It's more a problem in icy cold weather in the UK. The plastic cracks easily.

Nice work 👍🏻

Edited May 11, 2022 by mk2

[Rich]

There's a multitude of sneaky screws to remember.

[FraH2o]

On 5/11/2022 at 2:15 PM, mk2 said:

A low temperature soldering iron is what I use to 'weld' plastic pieces back together. It's more a problem in icy cold weather in the UK. The plastic cracks easily.

Nice work 👍🏻

I think to self made a carpet to cover the dash in cold/hot period between april and septmber....now i have fear for other bubbles

On 5/11/2022 at 10:27 PM, Rich said:

There's a multitude of sneaky screws to remember.

Yes....too many. I think (and hope) with elsa and etka to find the exit. 😅

 

So, i slowly go ahed .

I have started the work of cleaning, restoring and replacing the sponges of the main ventilation duct

The heater core has finally arrived ...

I have at least started to reassemble something… but more to make life easier with the tight space behind the engine than for other. Once plugged in, I'll put the bare dashboard back on and stop.
I'll have to completely undress her inside ...

Also to take advantage of the empty engine bay, I replaced the diesel filter, non-return valve and the first part of the diesel hoses.
On the advice of a "Tdi friend" I took the hose with the protective "sock" ... and not to be cool, but just to prevent it from fraying at the tip, I made collars with aluminum tape

 

[FraH2o]

I go ahead .... after a good month or so the engine is back in its place.

I cleaned the area under the wipers, I then reassembled the pollen filter that I left sealed until I close everything by reassembling the ecu and levers of the wipers

Before proceeding with the various connections I worked on the adapter for the oil sensor and pressure bulb for the future pressure gauge.

Before re connect the the cooling circuit I replace the pipe on head for the heater core circuit

All very tight, but luckily everything is ok and with no contact between the items

Also I connected a large part of the electrical system not before having given a quick clean with the contact cleaner and then a fast air blown.
My small diesel is almost fully connected

[FraH2o]

I go ahed  with other jobs, but I started another one that will probably see the light at the end of the summer

I  fast wash wishbones and hubs to renewe bearings and silent with the "usual" full ones of the TT 8N

In all my cars I always remove the air conditioner, I never use it, I prefer the open window even if it is warm ..... I always want to have the sunroof.

I Reassemble the  belt and pulley assembly, excluding the AC compressor (with complete removal of all the other parts of the air conditioning system)

And here I begin to mature the new dementia I'm about to run into… .that is, I begin to think that I can't stand a full roof anymore… the roof is something that cannot be renounced. 🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️😂 

From the edge of the windshield to the antenna are 146 cm plus

The curved shape of roof begins 30 cm before the windshield

I Take a ride on my warehouse  to check "an article" destinated for my died/burned GTI that has been stopped for 3-4 years.

The rest of the project I leave it to you to deduce 🤦‍♂️

 

[FraH2o]

Usual low cost upgrade but with great benefit.

Wishbones Audi TT instead of the half-empty golf mk/3  look

 

Other difference of silent is also the more solid internal pin that eliminates further play with the bolt, giving further precision in riding

 

[Silver!]

On 4/19/2022 at 3:59 PM, mk2 said:

Don't cut it yet. The engine sits at an angle and the half shafts are not naturally straight... You need to put the engine in (temporarily), and let the car rest on its own weight, otherwise you'll cut the slots in the wrong place. I think @Silver! has cut out slots, but that's with a different gearbox? 🤷🏻‍♀️ The left side shaft in particular is very wierd... Use 5mm steel sheet to reinforce both sides, with 1.0mm inside the slot. Do the sides first and have the inside sticking out beyond the sides for strength 👍🏻

@Rich, who else on here has "silly" lowered suspension?

No notch on my chasis 👍🏽

[FraH2o]

I replaced all 4 joint boots and checked all condition of all cv joints, and I didn't trust an external one and so I replaced it.
 I cleaned  everything, reassembled and re-greased

I washed the radiator struct and in and out of radiator and intercooler (with trichlorethylene).

I then started preparing all the items for the reassembly of the front chassis group.

As usual, the helpers was remved and instead of the coilovers top I preferred to use the original ones that hold the spring better and work better with the bearing and top mount assembly.

Other elements  arrived at home: the CDA airbox and the reverse teck rod ends from Epytec.

It's now all ready to continue, I should work over the weekend even if with the 24h of LeMans and Baku I think I will be distracted.

Also took the rear Corsa B absorber

 

[FraH2o]

I fit the wishbones, put on the anti-roll bar and I already understand that it will not be easy. As the wishbone rises, so does the ARB .... which touches the frame. As I read is a common problem with Lupo e Polo 6N2.

I saw a previuos contact with standard eight.....with my future drop i think will be a problem

I started looking for a way to solve this problem with a mod on ARB link.

I tried to reverse the link on wishbones....I tried, but the ARB has a shape on the wishbones that does not allow it

I started to work on links.
 

Edited June 15, 2022 by FraH2o
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