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Full car spray?


BlacknYellow
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I dont think they will treat rust and respray for 2000, best you can get will be brushed rust, and it will be back after few years. Every rusty spot on your car actually is a coroded hole in metal, if you dont want to see rust in short period after repainting your car, you must remove the rust, prime and fill the hole. It is possible to remove the rust by brushing through metal, sandblasting, for really worthful cars they use soda blast. Or rusted parts can be cut out and  welded. These jobs are never included in price for respray, because none can actually know whats under color. If thats “included”, they leave parts of coroded metal under color, because its hard and time consuming to remove them and resurface.

I advice you to not respray your Lupo if you arent ready for  proper rust treatment, just polish it.

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Well the £2000 quote one said they will treat it.

Another one I had for £2700 said the same thing.

The thing is I will be away for holidays so I'm not going to be able to pop in and actually see if they treat it or not.

I was thinking that , cutting out the rust and welding in a new piece would be the best but it's costly for sure.

 

Thank you for your reply.

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18 minutes ago, BlacknYellow said:

Well the £2000 quote one said they will treat it.

Another one I had for £2700 said the same thing.

The thing is I will be away for holidays so I'm not going to be able to pop in and actually see if they treat it or not.

I was thinking that , cutting out the rust and welding in a new piece would be the best but it's costly for sure.

 

Thank you for your reply.

I think they will just posish the rust to flat surface, prime and resurface it.

Welding is not the only option, sand blasting and soda blasting works as well, the only problem - if there is not much metal left after removing oxydized metal parts, then it returns to welding.

image.thumb.jpeg.e7afac20ea5bdde9eaa3fdb481d51cf2.jpeg

After simple brushing rust looks like this, but all the dark part is oxidized and must be removed as well.

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@BlacknYellow post some pics instead of keeping us guessing. I restore for a living and you could just have sections done at a time and blended in. That way it’s easier to manage. 

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2 hours ago, tigcraft said:

@BlacknYellow post some pics instead of keeping us guessing. I restore for a living and you could just have sections done at a time and blended in. That way it’s easier to manage. 

Thank you for your info.

Here are some pics I just took.

 

16321540106246523524958721454300.jpg

16321540267568298294349474422299.jpg

16321540377281111050573502821338.jpg

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Those pics dont look too bad and a very careful grind and treatment can preserve those quite well although what are the rear arches like? Look at the folded lip and see if there is any 'swelling' between the spot welds? Also have a look where the sills join the rear wings inside the door aperture as they can go there too. The other places are the lip area on the front wings.

Many years ago when I first tested rust converters I had a first edition Caddy van with original paint although scabby as hell. I had very little time and not enough for a full paint job so I  just gound out the rust very delicately then  compounded all the vehical and triple coated the prepped areas with rust converter. I then ever so carefully touched in the paintwork and it left it at that, 18 months followed and got chance to paint it properly so I just knocked the edges off from the touch up and gave it a full paint..........

Fives years since application of the converter there was very faint 'Spiders' forming but you needed to look really close for them as the van still looked impressive. Things can be done very cost effectively if you think them through. Eric 

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