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Front Subframe Replacement


scotty2
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If I can't get a sufficient weld, I'll go down that route.

Just ordered an XZN or triple square drive set.

Also spent a few minutes on WIKI to try and find out why there are so many bloody different types...

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_screw_drives#:~:text=the driver bit.-,Triple-square (XZN),a 12-pointed star).

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Got the pins welded on.

Right so installation is the reverse of removal...

Gear selector rod oil seal was weeping so I ordered a new one to change while the subframe was off. Old one a bugger to get out but managed. Put new one in and refilled the box. Came back next day and oil all under the ramp. Leaking worse than ever now. Box drained and seal removed. New one ordered. Will need some sealant in the housing I think.

20210731_155226.jpg

 

Edited by scotty2
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Looking good! Been following this thread with baited breath as mine needs doing probably before its next MOT. Thinking now it's a job for a garage for me as welding's beyond me if the captive nuts break...

Edited by decvalts
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On 7/22/2021 at 11:40 AM, scotty2 said:

Right. I have decided to do the "bolt" conversion similar to the diff pins on a TR6.

Sourced some M12 bolts, cut the head off and ground a taper ready for welding. Ground the chassis leg ready for welding too. Hopefully rebuilding will start at the weekend! ETA: What XZN size are the driveshaft bolts?

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Mine went similar so instead of all that I put a small hole in the side of the body there and plug welded the inner nut to the body. The heat then also let the bolt undo and just unscrewed out! 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Update. Gearbox seal that was sent was wrong. Now have fitted another one with some black silicon sealer. All good at last!

Spent Sunday afternoon re-assembling and made good progress. All was well until I found the screw that holds the disc on had been sheared off so I will drill it out and re-tap.

Just got the NS calliper and disc to fit then it is brake bleeding time, without the bleed nipples as they are rusted in. I'll just slacken the pipes and see what sort of pedal that gets me.

ETA photo of welded on pin.

20210731_155250.jpg

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Well, finished putting it back together and test driven. All seems well. Managed to get a good pedal by bleeding the brakes via the hose to hub joint.

 Been dropped off for an MOT this morning. Refurbished subframe, new control arms and ball joints, CV joint, new wheel bearings, discs, pads, gearbox oil seal, and a new fuel filter when I can get the old one off. It's still fighting me!

 

20210822_162709.jpg

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  • 1 month later...

Yes. Undo four nuts on the manifold (heat required!) and the clamp after the cat - you can see it just behind the cat in the picture. I suspended the exhaust by tying it up so I didn't have to undo any sensors. I used a Map Gas blow torch to make it easier.

The car is now with its new owner, ready to be another learners first car. That's 3 learners from the same class in school who have owned the car (and the reason I decided to save it!).

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  • 4 months later...

Bugger. I now need a NS front hub (swivel hub / bearing carrier) for the car. 

Anyone got one for sale they can send to me? Like the image below. 

Or if not, anyone got a link for a second hand one?

ETA: 2002 Lupo 1.0 non ABS.

Image 1 - VOLKSWAGEN LUPO S 1999-2003 FRONT HUB ASSEMBLY (PASSENGER SIDE) (NON ABS TYPE)

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Stuck or snapped circlip? I used an angle grinder on one of mine to take a thin slice out of the clip (cutting it in half) then I had to prize it out. What fun. Has lasted 7 years (70k miles) so far with new clip and bearings.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Managed to get one from a breakers search. Auto Village. All sorted now. Cam belt kit and water pump changed. A new set of HT leads have arrived, and I'll change oil and filter before handing back to the new owner. 

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Rust is down to winter salt, further North you are the more they chuck on the roads, some of the least rusty cars are in the wettest areas, I've changed the wishbones on my Arosa TDI but the underneath is rust free, which I think is down to living in Britain's wettest city

Swansea named UK's wettest city - Wales Online

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  • 3 weeks later...

Handed back to new owner. The plug leads were in a bit of a state when I swapped them. Couldn't change the plugs as none of my plug sockets would fit in the recess, so I have just handed them over with the car.

Bloody EGR light came on again after having been reset 20 miles ago. Has been replaced and checked out by  VW trained Mech previously, but still comes now and again.

She is now out and about in it at long last.

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