scotty2 Posted July 22, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 22, 2021 If I can't get a sufficient weld, I'll go down that route. Just ordered an XZN or triple square drive set. Also spent a few minutes on WIKI to try and find out why there are so many bloody different types... https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_screw_drives#:~:text=the driver bit.-,Triple-square (XZN),a 12-pointed star). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted July 22, 2021 Report Share Posted July 22, 2021 Crap isn't it? Whatever is assembly line friendly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scotty2 Posted August 2, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2021 (edited) Got the pins welded on. Right so installation is the reverse of removal... Gear selector rod oil seal was weeping so I ordered a new one to change while the subframe was off. Old one a bugger to get out but managed. Put new one in and refilled the box. Came back next day and oil all under the ramp. Leaking worse than ever now. Box drained and seal removed. New one ordered. Will need some sealant in the housing I think. Edited August 2, 2021 by scotty2 Pic deleted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
decvalts Posted August 3, 2021 Report Share Posted August 3, 2021 (edited) Looking good! Been following this thread with baited breath as mine needs doing probably before its next MOT. Thinking now it's a job for a garage for me as welding's beyond me if the captive nuts break... Edited August 3, 2021 by decvalts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tigcraft Posted August 6, 2021 Report Share Posted August 6, 2021 On 7/22/2021 at 11:40 AM, scotty2 said: Right. I have decided to do the "bolt" conversion similar to the diff pins on a TR6. Sourced some M12 bolts, cut the head off and ground a taper ready for welding. Ground the chassis leg ready for welding too. Hopefully rebuilding will start at the weekend! ETA: What XZN size are the driveshaft bolts? Mine went similar so instead of all that I put a small hole in the side of the body there and plug welded the inner nut to the body. The heat then also let the bolt undo and just unscrewed out! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scotty2 Posted August 16, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 16, 2021 (edited) Update. Gearbox seal that was sent was wrong. Now have fitted another one with some black silicon sealer. All good at last! Spent Sunday afternoon re-assembling and made good progress. All was well until I found the screw that holds the disc on had been sheared off so I will drill it out and re-tap. Just got the NS calliper and disc to fit then it is brake bleeding time, without the bleed nipples as they are rusted in. I'll just slacken the pipes and see what sort of pedal that gets me. ETA photo of welded on pin. Edited August 19, 2021 by scotty2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scotty2 Posted August 24, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 24, 2021 (edited) Well, finished putting it back together and test driven. All seems well. Managed to get a good pedal by bleeding the brakes via the hose to hub joint. Been dropped off for an MOT this morning. Refurbished subframe, new control arms and ball joints, CV joint, new wheel bearings, discs, pads, gearbox oil seal, and a new fuel filter when I can get the old one off. It's still fighting me! Edited August 24, 2021 by scotty2 Better picture Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scotty2 Posted August 24, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 24, 2021 MOT now passed ! 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
decvalts Posted October 9, 2021 Report Share Posted October 9, 2021 Nice work - quick question, do you have to completely drop the exhaust out to get the new subframe on? Any cutting involved to get it off, or releasing clamps sufficient? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scotty2 Posted October 10, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2021 Yes. Undo four nuts on the manifold (heat required!) and the clamp after the cat - you can see it just behind the cat in the picture. I suspended the exhaust by tying it up so I didn't have to undo any sensors. I used a Map Gas blow torch to make it easier. The car is now with its new owner, ready to be another learners first car. That's 3 learners from the same class in school who have owned the car (and the reason I decided to save it!). 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scotty2 Posted February 10, 2022 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2022 (edited) Bugger. I now need a NS front hub (swivel hub / bearing carrier) for the car. Anyone got one for sale they can send to me? Like the image below. Or if not, anyone got a link for a second hand one? ETA: 2002 Lupo 1.0 non ABS. Edited February 10, 2022 by scotty2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tigcraft Posted February 10, 2022 Report Share Posted February 10, 2022 What’s wrong with yours, do you just need to press the bearing out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mk2 Posted February 10, 2022 Report Share Posted February 10, 2022 Stuck or snapped circlip? I used an angle grinder on one of mine to take a thin slice out of the clip (cutting it in half) then I had to prize it out. What fun. Has lasted 7 years (70k miles) so far with new clip and bearings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scotty2 Posted February 11, 2022 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2022 Hub nut came loose, driveshaft mangled wheel bearing, and the bearing housing is goosed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scotty2 Posted February 21, 2022 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2022 Managed to get one from a breakers search. Auto Village. All sorted now. Cam belt kit and water pump changed. A new set of HT leads have arrived, and I'll change oil and filter before handing back to the new owner. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Penguin Posted February 21, 2022 Report Share Posted February 21, 2022 Rust is down to winter salt, further North you are the more they chuck on the roads, some of the least rusty cars are in the wettest areas, I've changed the wishbones on my Arosa TDI but the underneath is rust free, which I think is down to living in Britain's wettest city Swansea named UK's wettest city - Wales Online Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scotty2 Posted March 9, 2022 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2022 Handed back to new owner. The plug leads were in a bit of a state when I swapped them. Couldn't change the plugs as none of my plug sockets would fit in the recess, so I have just handed them over with the car. Bloody EGR light came on again after having been reset 20 miles ago. Has been replaced and checked out by VW trained Mech previously, but still comes now and again. She is now out and about in it at long last. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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