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1.4s Valuation


JamesH
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I need some help valuing my 03 Lupo 1.4s in blue. It’s done 63000 miles and will continue to be used as it’s my only car. The car has been very well looked after and I have made a few modifications to the car. There are no major problems, the usual marks for an old car but that’s it. The engine light is on but have checked at the garage and there is no issue. Any help appreciated.

New cambelt + water pump 

New brakes

Eibach Bilstein B12 suspension and shocks

New exhaust 

New headlights

New Sony speakers 

New Bridgestone tyres in January

Wheel spacers (can easily be taken off)

The wheels have been painted black but I still have the original covers

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Edited by JamesH
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Just scan eBay as petrol Lupo’s are plentiful. If it was a gti or tdi then your in a desirable  market 

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10 minutes ago, tigcraft said:

Just scan eBay as petrol Lupo’s are plentiful. If it was a gti or tdi then your in a desirable  market 

What would you say it’s worth though, considering I have spent a lot of money on the car?

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I’d just put it on bids. Anywhere between £450-900. It’s not the market that interests me personally as it’s flooded with them 

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15 minutes ago, JamesH said:

What would you say it’s worth though, considering I have spent a lot of money on the car?

Unfortunately, when you spend money on a car you aren't guaranteed to see much/any return. That's part of the reason so many decide to break their modified examples in an equally futile attempt to sell second hand parts. Obviously if you still enjoy the car, you could reconsider selling it?

The low mileage does make this quite a nice opportunity for someone and it's not slammed on its arse, which makes it more desirable to the second hand market. 

On a very good day, you might get £1000 but if you price it too high, you'll end up getting no offers at all. However, the unique selling point is the mileage rather than the mods, trust me.

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21 minutes ago, Skezza said:

Unfortunately, when you spend money on a car you aren't guaranteed to see much/any return. That's part of the reason so many decide to break their modified examples in an equally futile attempt to sell second hand parts. Obviously if you still enjoy the car, you could reconsider selling it?

The low mileage does make this quite a nice opportunity for someone and it's not slammed on its arse, which makes it more desirable to the second hand market. 

On a very good day, you might get £1000 but if you price it too high, you'll end up getting no offers at all. However, the unique selling point is the mileage rather than the mods, trust me.

How come there are 1.4s up for £3-4k? I’m looking at getting a Mini Cooper S RS3 so would want to sell it and thought that my car would be worth more than £1000.

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14 minutes ago, JamesH said:

How come there are 1.4s up for £3-4k? I’m looking at getting a Mini Cooper S RS3 so would want to sell it and thought that my car would be worth more than £1000.

They're utterly delusional.

Post a link.

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5 hours ago, JamesH said:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/154300706660?hash=item23ed09ef64:g:TjMAAOSw4edgCZdF
 

there’s a fair few on eBay over 2k and on auto trader aswell

Exactly as Skezza said.... one can ask..

Most people don’t know how to use eBay to educate themselves on what they sell.
The example you gave just now is possibly the nearest you’d get to ‘new lupo’ ownership that’s why it’s at that price but it doesn’t mean it went for that exact figure. 
The way to ‘learn’ what you should sell yours for is to go into eBay’s ‘advanced’ searches and scroll to the bottom then click on ‘completed’ items. Doing so reveals actual selling price or possibly what bids an item  has received but not sold for. Most of these ‘high price’ vehicles you see are what I call ‘on the merry go round’ and have been round and round many times waiting for a gullible buyer to fall in love with the ‘aura’ of such vehicle. So, back to yours, keep  it standard, your wheels are a no no as it influences buyers it’s been driven hard and abused. When I see cars like that I avoid then or just plainly insult the seller by bidding them into the bollox and if they bite then it’s my gain. I hope this gives you a bit of an idea...

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5 hours ago, tigcraft said:

Exactly as Skezza said.... one can ask..

Most people don’t know how to use eBay to educate themselves on what they sell.
The example you gave just now is possibly the nearest you’d get to ‘new lupo’ ownership that’s why it’s at that price but it doesn’t mean it went for that exact figure. 
The way to ‘learn’ what you should sell yours for is to go into eBay’s ‘advanced’ searches and scroll to the bottom then click on ‘completed’ items. Doing so reveals actual selling price or possibly what bids an item  has received but not sold for. Most of these ‘high price’ vehicles you see are what I call ‘on the merry go round’ and have been round and round many times waiting for a gullible buyer to fall in love with the ‘aura’ of such vehicle. So, back to yours, keep  it standard, your wheels are a no no as it influences buyers it’s been driven hard and abused. When I see cars like that I avoid then or just plainly insult the seller by bidding them into the bollox and if they bite then it’s my gain. I hope this gives you a bit of an idea...

Ok I’ll have a look at those for some ideas then. The only reason I’m selling is because I want something a bit more nippy like the Cooper S. I still have the original covers for the wheels and also have the original springs if someone wanted to change them back. 
 

Where would you say the best place is to try and sell the car is?

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1 hour ago, C3peteo said:

The engine light will put some people off. Did the garage scan it for any error codes? 

Yes, no error codes came up and it can just be switched off.

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If the engine light is on then get it scanned and clear it. If it comes back, you've got an issue.

I think with springs, it's the law of diminishing returns. You could spend hours taking them off, selling them privately etc, not getting as much as you expect and realizing it wasn't worth the hassle.

Equally, you can sell them on the car and get no significant increase in your sale value.

I'd put the wheel trims back on definitely.

The lupo you linked above has 12k miles and like yours, it's USP is the low mileage except that one is very very low which is rare. Like someone above said, it'll be like a brand new car.

Don't know what else to tell you mate. You can beat a dead horse if you like? Personally, I'd keep it but I've also been in that position when I let my diesel Lupo go for 'greener grass'. 5 years later, I regret it.

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Again, the engine light will put people off. 

A really common thing on ebay ads is where the engine management light is on and the seller says "been told it's on because I've not used it much/it'll probably be nothing/car just needs a run" etc. That just isn't my experience with emls, they come on for a reason and if they don't a scan would switch it off.

Your lupo is an ideal first car but those buyers will be looking for a car to give them as little hassle as possible, an eml will scare most of them away.

If you want top money make the car look as attractive as possible and sort the light out.

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6 hours ago, C3peteo said:

Again, the engine light will put people off. 

A really common thing on ebay ads is where the engine management light is on and the seller says "been told it's on because I've not used it much/it'll probably be nothing/car just needs a run" etc. That just isn't my experience with emls, they come on for a reason and if they don't a scan would switch it off.

Your lupo is an ideal first car but those buyers will be looking for a car to give them as little hassle as possible, an eml will scare most of them away.

If you want top money make the car look as attractive as possible and sort the light out.

This is a very interesting post actually.

My nan owned a Seicento 1.2 litre. Little pocket rocket it was actually, albeit made of tinfoil. After she stopped driving, it sat on her drive for a good 2 years without really moving anywhere and when we came to start it with a booster pack, the EML came on. After driving it to work everyday for a whole week, I was able to clear the engine management light and it indeed didn't come back on.

However, as you say, in my experience this is an exception to the norm. Car ECU's are actually smarter than people realize and there are two types of faults, a pending fault and a stored/logged fault. A pending fault is usually an intermittent fault or the kind of fault you might find after not driving it for a while. They are 'soft stored' and if the fault has disappeared within 40 warmup cycles, then the code is not stored. There are some cases where you can get a stored fault and these CAN also be false positives. A pending fault that constantly reappears is usually a sign of something like a failing component or loose electrical connection and eventually will become a stored fault. The EML doesn't usually light up with a pending fault though hence a stored fault is usually a sign of an actual problem because there's been consecutive warmup cycles with the same fault = EML actually comes on. A stored fault that returns after clearing, again, sign of a problem. If the car "just needs a run", then it's unlikely to have illuminated the EML as it would have gone through as a pending fault to begin with.

OBD2 tools are also pennies these days and I would always advise anyone to buy one, especially when looking at a new car or selling their own. It's your opportunity to fix these issues before having to explain them away.

I am always wary of people who say on their eBay advert "slight fault, EML comes on, easy/cheap fix just needs  xyz". If it's an easy or cheap fix, why not fix it before selling it? 9/10 these fixes are not that easy. Even changing a lambda sensor can be harder than you think, especially if it's seized up solid. These easy fixes can occasionally spiral into not-so-easy expensive mistakes.

 

 

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17 hours ago, JamesH said:

Ok I’ll have a look at those for some ideas then. The only reason I’m selling is because I want something a bit more nippy like the Cooper S. I still have the original covers for the wheels and also have the original springs if someone wanted to change them back. 
 

 

The Cooper S has more power & torque than the basic Cooper which is roughly on a par with the Lupo GTI but its has the weight of the super charger, its radiator, and as often as not air conditioning that slightly compromises the handling, find a late R50 Cooper with a Getrag gear box and no air con & you might give up on a Cooper S. Both a handling revelation though compared to the Loop

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52 minutes ago, weslangdon said:

The Cooper S has more power & torque than the basic Cooper which is roughly on a par with the Lupo GTI but its has the weight of the super charger, its radiator, and as often as not air conditioning that slightly compromises the handling, find a late R50 Cooper with a Getrag gear box and no air con & you might give up on a Cooper S. Both a handling revelation though compared to the Loop

I was looking at the R53, don’t know too much about the R50. Is there much difference then? My Lupo is a lot of fun just not got the power that I want really.

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9 hours ago, C3peteo said:

Again, the engine light will put people off. 

A really common thing on ebay ads is where the engine management light is on and the seller says "been told it's on because I've not used it much/it'll probably be nothing/car just needs a run" etc. That just isn't my experience with emls, they come on for a reason and if they don't a scan would switch it off.

Your lupo is an ideal first car but those buyers will be looking for a car to give them as little hassle as possible, an eml will scare most of them away.

If you want top money make the car look as attractive as possible and sort the light out.

I did try and fix the issue and bought an OBD2 tool to try and fix it but it wouldn’t load when I plugged it into the car. So I need to get a new one so I can just turn it off. I do think that it’s a great first car and it been well looked after especially with the low mileage and most main parts being replaced.

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On 5/9/2021 at 6:26 PM, JamesH said:

I was looking at the R53, don’t know too much about the R50. Is there much difference then? My Lupo is a lot of fun just not got the power that I want really.

R53 has the supercharger fitted 168 bhp but by fitting a smaller pulley and remap it can be 210 bhp in line with the JCW model. The ordinary Cooper with the same 1.6 engine but no puffer puts out 115 bhp, a little less than the Lupo GTI but with independent rear suspension more than a match on twisty roads. If I'm being honest a basic non air con Cooper has a significantly lighter front end than the R53 with its puffer, extra radiators and hefty air con and its radiator and feels nicer to drive.

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