ArosaScott Posted April 7, 2020 Report Share Posted April 7, 2020 Just a couple of questions on front door card speaker replacements. 1) Do you 'NEED' the door speaker adapter plates? If so can you say what size? 2) Am i right in thinking the Speaker size for replacement is 6.5in Anything else i should invest in to make job more easy? Thank You 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarahs Lupo Posted April 11, 2020 Report Share Posted April 11, 2020 On 4/7/2020 at 8:40 AM, ArosaScott said: Just a couple of questions on front door card speaker replacements. 1) Do you 'NEED' the door speaker adapter plates? If so can you say what size? 2) Am i right in thinking the Speaker size for replacement is 6.5in Anything else i should invest in to make job more easy? Thank You This is what the previous owner did. doesnt help but looks funny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LR5V Posted April 12, 2020 Report Share Posted April 12, 2020 You need the rings as the window mechanism is close to the inner door and standard speakers have a spacer Seem to recall I fitted 6.5 speakers in the door, The rings are cheap so no real biggy The factory cables have an inline crossover to take the high frequency signal to the tweeter in the dash and lower frequency to the woofer in the door - so don’t fit co-axial speakers, tweeters will be doing nothing - unless you are bipassing the factory cables Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miodek89 Posted April 18, 2020 Report Share Posted April 18, 2020 (edited) I am also at the stage of replacing the speakers in the door because the current original has broken. Is it enough to buy 160 or 165cm speakers plus distances and it will be ok? in the door, what kind of speakers should I look for? I want the top speakers near the windscreen to sound like they do today. Such speakers as in the link will match? https://allegro.pl/oferta/kenwood-glosniki-skoda-fabia-1-2-seat-arosa-przod-7715377977?utm_medium=app_share&utm_source=facebook Edited April 18, 2020 by miodek89 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArosaScott Posted April 23, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2020 Thanks for the tips so far guys, as theyre pop riveted in does anybody know the size of either pop rivet to replace the fixings, or what size nut and bolt inc length i would need, so i can have them all ready to go when it all gets here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LR5V Posted April 23, 2020 Report Share Posted April 23, 2020 Try 4.8x14 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArosaScott Posted April 23, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2020 Thank you @LR5V I'll get some ordered. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miodek89 Posted May 1, 2020 Report Share Posted May 1, 2020 Someone will answer my question? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArosaScott Posted May 1, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2020 I am not replacing the tweeters near the windowscreen only the door speakers, door speaker size is 6.5 inch. You'll need to either buy the surrounds, or make your own so the window can go down or it hits the speaker magnet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArosaScott Posted May 29, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 29, 2020 Speakers all replaced, and a great improvement from the old blown speakers (left 1 had a split in) - Remove 4 philip headscrews on door card and remove door card. Door card will come down in a downwards motion. - Unclip speaker wire adapter from speaker. (Squeeze tabs either side and pull) - Use a drill and drill bit to drill out the 4 rivets holding the speaker in place. - Screw new Speaker Adapter plate in (I used a set of U Clips and Small screws) Adapter plate is needed or when window goes down it will hit the speaker magnet - Connect wires to new speakers and refit the new speakers into the adapater bracket. Double check all is secure and tight, so it dont rattle when you have the sound on - refit door card by lining up the 4 top slotted groves and then once card is flush reput 4 philips screws into the bottom of the door cards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted May 29, 2020 Report Share Posted May 29, 2020 Is this where I should talk you into some rear speakers? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mk2 Posted May 29, 2020 Report Share Posted May 29, 2020 1 hour ago, ArosaScott said: Speakers all replaced, and a great improvement from the old blown speakers (left 1 had a split in) - Remove 4 philip headscrews on door card and remove door card. Door card will come down in a downwards motion. - Unclip speaker wire adapter from speaker. (Squeeze tabs either side and pull) - Use a drill and drill bit to drill out the 4 rivets holding the speaker in place. - Screw new Speaker Adapter plate in (I used a set of U Clips and Small screws) Adapter plate is needed or when window goes down it will hit the speaker magnet - Connect wires to new speakers and refit the new speakers into the adapater bracket. Double check all is secure and tight, so it dont rattle when you have the sound on - refit door card by lining up the 4 top slotted groves and then once card is flush reput 4 philips screws into the bottom of the door cards. If you could add some pics, this could be "the" official how-to.... I'd like to try different speakers in the front. I keep blowing them. Ideally without changing the OEM look. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArosaScott Posted May 29, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 29, 2020 @Rich I actually do have somewhere in the garage a fiberglass parcel shelf i bought off eBay last year with the intention of fitting some 6x9's but still not done it yet, im great at buying stuff to do jobs, or thinking ill get this that and the other done and leaving it ages! @mk2 I'll try get some pictures at some point should i ever go to change something or if i hear a rattle, its very straight forward only pain is the rivets. You wouldn't even tell i had changed the speakers if you was to look at it, all looks OEM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted May 29, 2020 Report Share Posted May 29, 2020 I mean the proper ones. Go pull your rear door card off and marvel at the holes which are there for them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArosaScott Posted May 29, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 29, 2020 @Rich Wait, really? I'll have to investigate it. Any idea of the size, and will i have to run my own speaker wires? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted May 29, 2020 Report Share Posted May 29, 2020 The size seems to be very specific when covered in the past on here. I have speakers, tweeters, screws, fittings and the original speaker plugs with a decent amount of wire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mk2 Posted May 29, 2020 Report Share Posted May 29, 2020 A "How-to" needed more than ever... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted May 29, 2020 Report Share Posted May 29, 2020 Come on Frank, rear speakers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mk2 Posted May 30, 2020 Report Share Posted May 30, 2020 I have a couple of spare 150W Fane 12" drivers that I'm thinking of mounting in a forward facing rear frame- replacing the rear seat back (using the whole back part from a one piece arosa seat). The steel seat pressing even has two round forms, ready to fit, as if it were designed for them. Might need to turn that volume up now that I'm approaching my 90's. On my V12 hotrod, I once built a 5' diameter cardboard speaker mockup, and deliberately had music playing through a tweeter to make the worst possible sound. Mounted on a roofrack and then ran the chelsea cruise. It did get quite a few laughs. All those chavs with the extra loud bass bins were not happy.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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