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My Lupo GTI


neebsta
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54 minutes ago, LR5V said:

Is this going to be like a kidnapping, where you post little bits of you Lupo one at a time?

They look to be a really good refurbishment, centre caps usually don't come out 100% - but yours look mint.

 Kidnapping yes 😂 it’s in my garage, so can’t get a shot of the full car.

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It’s a totally standard black 5 speed version and despite the mileage isn’t in such bad condition. There’s the third brake light issue, I suspect I’m going to have to break through from the light side to free this unit from the spoiler. A few other bits need addressing - front wheel assembly, rear calipers and shocks, hinges and check straps. 

Edited by neebsta
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Gorgeous. Cant wait to see it with the refurbed wheels on.

Inside looks immac. Nice. Most difficult bit to restore... 👍🏻

Make sure the agreed insurance value is right or if it gets nicked or busted up, you may only get just over a grand for it. Worth at least 3k I'd reckon.

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It needs lots of tlc still, it’s not going to be in daily use, it will be garaged when not in use. I have managed to get the brake light off what is now my second spoiler. They are terribly designed for water ingress, the two bolts either side are now turning in the spoiler. Seems what looks like rivnuts are turning in the spoiler.

Edited by neebsta
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9 hours ago, neebsta said:

Cheers I have had a look. Drilling or breaking the lens seems the only option for rusted bolts.

that's what i had to do on my old one. someone had overtightened the 3 bolts and stripped the plastic around the back so they were just spinning! Just be careful not to damage the spoiler and you should be fine

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7 hours ago, mk2 said:

Sounds like a how-to is needed here....

I just attacked the 3 rusted nuts that hold the brake light into the spoiler. It’s not a particularly tidy job, but was the only way I could see to remove it. Quite what VW were thinking when using these cheap and nasty fixings I don’t know. Not normally the VW way.

I had the original black spoiler to practice on 😂 breaking through the light is less straight forward as the top of screw heads are smooth and well sunk into the light fitting itself. The spoiler will definitely be reattached with stainless fittings.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

The resurrection continues.

All mechanical issues resolved, head has been resealed which has cured an oil leak. All front end shocks, springs and top mounts have been replaced along with passenger front stub axle which was bent.

The water pump and cambelt have been changed. Oil /antifreeze/coolant all changed.

It has meant that all 4 refurbished Bathurst wheels are now fitted.

Once the tracking is sorted out. Next stop will be the body work. There’s a replacement rear bumper/spoiler that need a respray (currently in silver) and a towing eye cover and passenger wing mirror cover that are in primer.
 

I’m looking for a GTI grille badge with the red ‘I’ I’ve sourced the rear with a red ‘I’ and I have red piping for the grille once the bodywork is finished. I could always inlay some red vinyl into the current grille badge, but I’m really after a factory enamel version.

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Edited by neebsta
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  • 4 weeks later...

This Lupo is having tracking done today (massively out on the front due to bent stub axle) this has been replaced and tracking adjusted by eye so it can be driven, also having the MOT done. Should pass as practically everything that was a potential fail area has been replaced.

 

I’ve got another exhaust and centre pipe coming towards the end of March. The original exhaust which is still on the car is absolutely shot.

 

The best cost effective exhaust solution I could find was a Scorpion exhaust. It’s second hand, but never used.

 

It’s not in keeping with my OEM ideals, but the alternatives where too pricey on a car that’s costs are already far greater than I expected!

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How did you bend a stub axle?! That's like a 30mm diameter hardened steel bar, that's only a few inches long. Strong. Usually shocks or track arm that goes. When getting the camber right, you need to push in the hub carrier so the bottom of the wheel is as far in as it'll go. The three bolts that clamp the ball joint, you only need to loosen slightly to do that. Pull the top of the wheel out as far as it'll go by loosening off the two shock bolts. Then it should all line up nicely. Assuming the sub frame hasn't been moved.

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