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Lupo S Gear Crunches


SamVW
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Hello all,

Unfortunately I'm experiencing some gear box issues with my wonderful little Lupo S 1390 (53 plate).

It's difficult to change gears, most noticeably first, second and reverse and now crunches.
This only happens when the engine is running though.
If the engine is off, all gears including reverse are smooth as butter whether the clutch is up or down.

My Lupo is going for it's MOT on Tuesday, so I was hoping to get a bit of an idea before I walk in there and get told I need a new Gearbox and Clutch on top of the MOT.

I have searched the forum a bit and this thread matches my issue the most I would say, but not quite.

Anyway, any help/tips/ideas would be great.
Thanks everyone.

 

 

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Yes, sounds like pedalbox. A very very common serious failure, which if not rectified soon eventually leads to total gearbox failure. In fact once you get the pedal box replaced, be sure to completely flush the old oil (along with all the bits of metal now), just after a run and everything is nice and hot, so the detritus is still in suspension. The clutch pedal will be slightly lower than the brake pedal at rest.

Parts and labour max £200, typically about £125. Rich would do it for you if near him. Not an MOTable item, so long as the car is still drivable. If not completely gone, you can tighten up the cable to end stop, just to keep you mobile.

oh, lastly, welcome to club lupo! :)

 

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On 6/27/2019 at 7:03 PM, Rich said:

Pedalbox.

Clutch not fully engaging.

 

On 6/27/2019 at 8:10 PM, mk2 said:

Yes, sounds like pedalbox. A very very common serious failure, which if not rectified soon eventually leads to total gearbox failure. In fact once you get the pedal box replaced, be sure to completely flush the old oil (along with all the bits of metal now), just after a run and everything is nice and hot, so the detritus is still in suspension. The clutch pedal will be slightly lower than the brake pedal at rest.

Parts and labour max £200, typically about £125. Rich would do it for you if near him. Not an MOTable item, so long as the car is still drivable. If not completely gone, you can tighten up the cable to end stop, just to keep you mobile.

oh, lastly, welcome to club lupo! :)

 

Thanks for taking the time to post 😃

It's still drivable for now. But Once I get going and get in 3rd, I avoid changing gears. Luckily I only have to drive 5 miles each way to work.

Good to know it's not MOTable. It will definitely need fixing afterwards though.
Thanks again.

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Once moving just match the revs to road speed / gear and you can change gears easy enough without touching the clutch pedal. OK for a get you home but long term the syncros will have a hard time of it unless you are quite good at it.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I just replaced syncro no. 3 in my box (just refurbed it). It's amazing how little metal you need to remove to make them crunch. I'll post a pic of it when I get a chance. All caused by pedal box failure a few years ago....

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On 7/9/2019 at 8:58 PM, Rich said:

See where the bite point is.....

So I have the car back with a fresh MOT and a new clutch.

The biting point is now right at the top of the pedal and the gears are super smooth. The clutch pedal is very spongey and easy to press.
It does sit about 1-2cm lower than the break pedal though.
I can't remember if this is how it was before or not.

Seems to drive well through all gears now.

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I just took some pics to show the wear on a syncro ring- caused by not fully disengaging clutch, caused by pedal box weld failure. The metal particles end up in the oil, which then get between the roller bearing surfaces, causing pitting. Eventually, the pinion bearing fails (usually), so you can say goodbye to the gearbox... And then you need £550 (July 2019 prices).

syncro teeth 1.jpg

syncro teeth 2.jpg

syncro teeth 3.jpg

syncro teeth 4.jpg

syncro teeth 5.jpg

badly worn bearing.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 7/12/2019 at 10:40 AM, mk2 said:

I just took some pics to show the wear on a syncro ring- caused by not fully disengaging clutch, caused by pedal box weld failure. The metal particles end up in the oil, which then get between the roller bearing surfaces, causing pitting. Eventually, the pinion bearing fails (usually), so you can say goodbye to the gearbox... And then you need £550 (July 2019 prices).

syncro teeth 1.jpg

syncro teeth 2.jpg

syncro teeth 3.jpg

syncro teeth 4.jpg

syncro teeth 5.jpg

badly worn bearing.jpg

Ok, thank you for posting this. It's very useful.
I'm surprised they did not mention this, or even look, seems I specifically highlighted it may be an issue with the Pedal Box.

I will keep an eye out.

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You can test the pedal box to gearbox link system by placing a piece of wood or similar between the cable flange and the clutch lever on the gearbox- in effect preventing the cable from moving. Then press on the clutch pedal. It should be rock solid, as in no movement other than the cable flexing a bit. If it moves more than a few mm or goes to the floor, it is 100% broken.

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