egorn Posted May 24, 2019 Report Share Posted May 24, 2019 (edited) Hi I have trouble starting my Lupo. The spiral lamp won´t light and then it does not start and I have to pull the coupling wire. I had a theory about not having enough hydraulic oil then it won´t start. But now I have enough hydraulic oil and it still won't start. Any suggestion? Edited May 24, 2019 by egorn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skezza Posted May 24, 2019 Report Share Posted May 24, 2019 Sounds like a relay issue, but i'd get it scanned first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RAB Posted May 25, 2019 Report Share Posted May 25, 2019 You may need a new accumulator - they contain nitrogen which leaks away with time. Another likely cause is a worn potentiometer on the clutch actuator - if the clutch position is not clear, starting will be inhibited. RAB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mk2 Posted May 25, 2019 Report Share Posted May 25, 2019 @RAB, is that how the clutch engaging works? I've read the online guide but that was the only bit that made no sense. So from your comments, I'm guessing that the gearbox controller knows the clutch biting point and calibrates itself regularly to compensate for wear. So that potentiometer is key? I wonder why they didn't go for a contactless design using hall sensors. Was the 1.2 used in anything else as a matter of interest- anywhere? (Besides Lupo and A2) I'd love a stand alone 1.2 with manual ecu to play with... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted May 25, 2019 Report Share Posted May 25, 2019 Can you bump a manual auto? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RAB Posted May 25, 2019 Report Share Posted May 25, 2019 (edited) The clutch position is given by the potentiometer. If the signal is noisy then starting in STOP/PARK may be inhibited. However, starting in NEUTRAL should work before the potentiometer degrades too much. A German member of the A2-freunde forum converts original actuators to one with a Hall sensor - cheaper than buying new and should last indefinitely. I have had two converted. A basic setting/recalibration should be done every 30.000km. There's very little clutch wear as slipping the clutch is not possible. A 3L clutch may last 300,000km. You can bump start if you can get it in gear but if the actuator is failing, there's little point. 1.2Tdi was only used in the Lupo 3L and A2 1.2Tdi. There was no Arosa although a prototype may have been built. RAB Edited May 25, 2019 by RAB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mk2 Posted May 25, 2019 Report Share Posted May 25, 2019 Have you ever heard of anyone successfully isolating the 1.2 ecu from the box controller? I wonder if its even possible.... everything may be coded up to be so intertwined it would need a complete rewrite? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RAB Posted May 25, 2019 Report Share Posted May 25, 2019 For what reason? They are linked for a reason. So there would be problems converting to manual. With a 3L transmission, you have to be pro-active, otherwise expensive problems appear. Being pro-active, most problems are simply avoided. RAB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mk2 Posted May 25, 2019 Report Share Posted May 25, 2019 I'd like to be able to run the engine completely stand alone, but still use it's factory load map. Maybe with a manual transmission. Or even in a boat... Aircraft? So light. So efficient. So compact. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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