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No Compression 1 & 4


Rizzo80
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Afternoon all

 

So the miss firing Lupo has had a compression test and no compression on 1 & 4 😒 so i have no idea where to go from here. Is it worth doing ? Not sure on a cost or what i would need to do tbh 

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My mate had a one litre with no compression on cylinder three.

Worked out cheaper to buy an engine than buy all the parts to reassemble without even finding the problem.

I found a cracked exhaust valve after I stripped it down when I was bored 

Then I weighed it in.

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Problem ive got is havnt got the time. In the middle of tryi g to move house. New house doesnt have the space for it to just sit there unitl i get to it. Might have to sell it on 😞

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Yer runs ok until you give it some gas then it shakes and cuts out. But when you get it going its fine it will sit doing 40 no problems. But then come to a stop and its done 

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Not going to put my house on it.....

but change your HT leads. I know you say it's got no compression, but that's just someones opinion and they might not have even tested it correctly. As said above, running on the middle 3 cylinders would give a very interesting experience. I'm surprised it could even run at all, wouldn't the knock sensor be going haywire?

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Its had Leads. It struggles to start first time. But second / 3rd it fires up. Itll idle fine for a bit. You press accelerator and its very delayed but then shoots up. When it comes back down to idle it cuts out. Start again and then the EM light is on and it shakes the whole car 

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Sounds like ignition or fuelling problem. Compression faults become very obvious at idle. At running revs (over 2000ish RPM), there's not enough time for the gases to leak away, so it runs almost normally, but just down on power a bit. And usually the occasional 'chuff' sound out of the tail pipe.

By the symptoms, I'd guess there's a misfire caused by either missing spark or missing fuel caused by an injector not squirting fuel. If you get a cheap diagnostic thing, it'll tell you lots. Bluetooth that connects to a phone is the easiest.

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Any time there is misfire that isnt obvious like a plug or ht lead it can save a whole lot of time and money doing a compression test right off the bat. That way you know if it is a mechanical problem like rings or valves or not before spending money on various bits.

You've had it looked at he said compression. It doesnt sound like it might be as described here so test it again yourself. It's a one off cost, you get to keep the kit.

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Yeah @Sausage is right. Always a good idea.

If there's a valve leak, you get chuffing sounds and the o2 sensor (lambda) will give eratic readings.

If there's a ring leak, you get 'a lot' of blow by gas coming out of the oil filler cap and the throttle valve will be caked in oil residue. Lots of gloop all over the air inlet duct downstream from the breather pipe. Oil usage- engine burns oil the last few thousand miles.

if it's a head gasket, similar to rings symptoms, but also some oil in the coolant and the coolant can go down slowly. At the same time, oily/dirty spark plugs.

cracked cylinder head (unusual), bubbling in the water tank, with some oil residue in there too.

pull the plugs after the engine has warmed up and post pics of the tip colours (keep them in sequence).... we'll have a look.

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29 minutes ago, Rizzo80 said:

Ive already changed the coil pack. No better

But have you fitted a good one, or one from ebay for 7 quid?

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