Jump to content

GTI Upgrades


LR5V
 Share

Recommended Posts

Going for short pipe run as per original Lupo set up, using the reservoir and feed pipe to the pump off the Polo. Had a good look at the reservoir, there is a filter inside it, and it looks clarty -hoping a quick rinse with paraffin with sort it.

Ordered hydraulic hoses and adaptor for PS pump banjo, only concern is the reservoirs return connection is 8.3mm barb, and the hydraulic hose is a lot bigger than the 3/8th connection, so need to find something to make up the difference in size, not long to wait they should arrive tomorrow.

Last night, I bought a new Bosch Blue battery at Costco, along with toilet paper and whiskey - it felt really random - it is the only place I know that does not inflate its prices any time near or around winter.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As expected the hoses turned up, I ordered plastic spiral wrap to protect and tidy up the hoses, but the seller had run out so offered an upgrade to fabric cover, looks smart:

A9kfqw.jpg

Interestingly the hoses are not sitting on a shelf they make them up, allowing some changes. The hose ID of the non terminated hose is 9.7mm and the skinny connection on the reservoir is 8.2mm OD - going to try some self amalgamating tape to make up the difference and x2 good quality jubilee clamps - if it fails I will just revert to the very used Polo return line.

Cleaned the alloy heat shield on the feed line its like new, need to do over the rubber section to clean a bit more grime off. The circle of PS fluid is nearly complete, cue the Lion king music

0uTnIc.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Friday - had a go at packing out the return line to the reservoir, a couple of goes with the amalgamating tape and the hose was firmly in place with a jubilee clamp. Tried installing and found out the hose was too stiff, whilst adjusting the reservoir to go into the bracket it gave out a loud crack as the tiny return tube snapped off! - oh well.

Saturday - visited a scrap yard, got a few things for the daily Golf and managed to get another reservoir and an OK condition return line. early afternoon was spent fixing more of the dailies faults, thankfully it was mainly successes.

Late afternoon- I rolled the Lupo out and got to work. Had another go with the alternator belt, I had a think since the first go about it and forgot how tight the belt is to get on - managed to get it on all the pulleys but only 2/3rds on the PS one this got sorted after I put the new battery in and started the Lupo for the first time since before Christmas. Nice to hear it running.

Next was the top mount. I promised myself when the existing ones failed I would fit Silver Project adjustable top mounts, but wasn't expecting that to happen so soon - Been sitting on these since Christmas!

75NngF.jpg

They use the standard top mount bearing, and I have read the ball joint is usuallty a standard size so replacement shouldnt be too pricey. They go together like this:

EAIWtN.jpg

Installation ended up being a bit of a mare, couldnt compress the spring on the coilover, ended up having to take the strut out!

Top nut unique  - it has a tube extension that located in the bearing assembly - this was with a few threads on 

JO9Hyf.jpg

Tightened - only 4 of the 6 threads get used, this allows different adjustment:

6NfVDK.jpg

Installed - any angle is possible, I have just gone for a neutral one - centre and angled to hub centre - this will be like this till I go to the really good 3D alignment people

0E3lfY.jpg

Only complaint is the 4 bolts that hold it in place only have a few threads each - may get some longer and nicer bolts

no more pushing the Lupo about

X77Kg4.jpg

 

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

How much are a pair? They look perfect for something I have an idea on...

But do they still allow a return thump? As in is there still some rubber material between shock and car to avoid destroying the shock return valve?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

51 minutes ago, mk2 said:

How much are a pair? They look perfect for something I have an idea on...

But do they still allow a return thump? As in is there still some rubber material between shock and car to avoid destroying the shock return valve?

Silver project lupo top mounts:

https://silverproject.eu/product/camber-plates-vw-polo-6n1-and-lupo-6x1-6e1-adjustable/

completely solid, these won’t sag over time like rubber ones,

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Noice! Same place for hydraulic hoses? Mine weeps at the pump because it was rusty around the hole where the copper washer sits and I couldn't get in there to clean it up better than a hand held wire brush. It was an advisory on MOT and I top up the fluid every few months.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, Sausage said:

Noice! Same place for hydraulic hoses? Mine weeps at the pump because it was rusty around the hole where the copper washer sits and I couldn't get in there to clean it up better than a hand held wire brush. It was an advisory on MOT and I top up the fluid every few months.

Thank you for going on point with the research on yours - I know we used the same ebay seller, they called me about the spiral wrap - I explained it was for PS pipes, the guy said he did not think the additives in the fluid would be good for the pipe. It surprised me, but if it does fail at least its only £13 for another replacement hose. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I started building a workbench 3 weeks ago, I only managed to do the frame and wheels, couldnt get to the 22mm MDF I had in the garage till today  - finished this off:

bjPFeq.jpg

Now in the garage, same height as my side box

qfRpfh.jpg

Lower shelf is for tools, top is for working, already unpacked my tower drill and bench grinder, got an old laptop and a small box compartment shelf to go in there too - planning to build an aerosol shelf, something to mount my compressor in  + a purge of empty boxes from the shelves on the other side.

Had a go at the power steering, was confident that I could do it this afternoon. The PS delete loop came off easily - from above, then continued to mess around with the rack connections from below, I was confused that the banjo for the return line wasn't screwing in - just revisited the helpful diagram posted by Lupogtiboy I was trying to put m16 into m14....

Got the M16 to 3/8 adaptor into the pump, then found out the the hydraulic hose wont fit as the alternator is too close, worse still its too tight for both adaptor and then the connector, another to add to my white elephant collection!

Last thing I attempted was removing the dust boot off the inlet on the PS pump, managed to jab the side of my thumb into the sharp edge of the very bottom of the slam panel, claret started to flow, blood dripping everywhere - it was like a scene out of Dexter - at that I just packed everything away having achieved nothing on the PS.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Try your 3/8 delete pipe on the pump as it had a 90 on each end then you could join the new pipe on it with a 3/8 M-M connector. You might get away with the extra length, but you might find it wont go where it needs to.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

its good idea I will try it, I suspect there are variations in PS pumps - the one I have fitted has the outlet vertical with little room for the straight crimped connection - I asked for a 45 but they had none in stock, and I was concerned with another 90 may start twisting the hose, straight allows the hose to twist into a neutral position -

The 90 connections point in the same plane - if a 90 does fit, I could ask for them to be angled in opposite directions and the line to be a bit shorter too.

The ideal solution is an M16 banjo with 3/8 BSPP connection, it would mean the current straight pipe will work, but that does not seem to exist - just takes me down AN fittings route -just priced that out and its £45

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Had a productive day today - power steering has been re-instated. The 90 elbow on my previous hose did not fit -too close to alternator

Found some AN6 pre-constructed hoses on ebay, added an M16 to AN6 Banjo and an M14 to AN6 adaptor and I have my hose:

1xid73.jpg

Ran the hose under the drivers chassis leg, up into the engine bay under the PS reservoir and down to the rack.

The only thing that is behaving oddly is the reservoir feed, there is too much extra hose. I was surprised how little fluid it required, didn't even get through a litre of mineral fluid.

Fitted the other adjustable top mount - a lot quicker this time. Looking at the short bolts problem, It seems with the weight of the Lupo I was able to tighten them at least a few more turns, I got some new 12.9 20mm long bolts - typically they are different sizes, I pulled the original bolt out to find it was also 20mm!, I had measured the one that holds the top plate to the cone that goes in the tower.  @cj1  -BTW these lift the suspension by about 10 to 15mm - you need 25mm long bolts and the washers are already starting to get chewed up, Im going to get replacements for these as well - they probably will need filling to allow them to sit level next to each other.

I beleive all the MOT problems have been fixed - only unknown is emissions, hoping on the morning of the MOT a good long run will sort it - booked for the 10th - couldn't get anything earlier.

Quick wash and the Lupo is sitting like this:

xkwwfC.jpg

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
On 3/30/2019 at 7:33 PM, LR5V said:

Had a productive day today - power steering has been re-instated. The 90 elbow on my previous hose did not fit -too close to alternator

Found some AN6 pre-constructed hoses on ebay, added an M16 to AN6 Banjo and an M14 to AN6 adaptor and I have my hose:

 

Ran the hose under the drivers chassis leg, up into the engine bay under the PS reservoir and down to the rack.

The only thing that is behaving oddly is the reservoir feed, there is too much extra hose. I was surprised how little fluid it required, didn't even get through a litre of mineral fluid.

Fitted the other adjustable top mount - a lot quicker this time. Looking at the short bolts problem, It seems with the weight of the Lupo I was able to tighten them at least a few more turns, I got some new 12.9 20mm long bolts - typically they are different sizes, I pulled the original bolt out to find it was also 20mm!, I had measured the one that holds the top plate to the cone that goes in the tower.  @cj1  -BTW these lift the suspension by about 10 to 15mm - you need 25mm long bolts and the washers are already starting to get chewed up, Im going to get replacements for these as well - they probably will need filling to allow them to sit level next to each other.

I beleive all the MOT problems have been fixed - only unknown is emissions, hoping on the morning of the MOT a good long run will sort it - booked for the 10th - couldn't get anything earlier.

Quick wash and the Lupo is sitting like this:

 

Looking good! And thanks for the handy tips regarding the top mounts! 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, cj1 said:

Looking good! And thanks for the handy tips regarding the top mounts! 

No problem cj1 - I have more information for you on the longer bolts, currently I get 2 turns in each thread, below ringed red threads are actually blocked by the bearing housing:

image.png.5feaa1fa86d82300746b6fab1bc838bb.png

Longer bolts will give you 4 full turns, but they will need to be shortened to suit the required depth.  I think the issue is standard M6 bolt lengths are 16, 20 and 25mm - with a decent washer and 4 turns it needs to be around 22mm in length - by the way the other 2 threads are clear

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wednesday - MOT day so theoretically legal to take the Lupo for a drive to clean out the Cat. In the morning I did a 40 mile trip. The Lupo was driving pretty well - its been 6 months since I last drove it, but it didn't feel as zingy as I recall. The good news is it didn't loose any coolant - So head gasket is good

Sadly Lupo failed - despite the drive and some redex it still failed on emissions, engine light and now rust! At least this time they didn't moan about lack of seat adjustment, just a parting shot about cable ties on fuel filter!

Rust - The passenger entire side had been replaced at some point, whoever did it didn't do a good enough job of protection and its been rotting form the inside out. The worst part was between the door and rear wheel arch - I had got this welded before I took the Lupo off the road. Also someone had jacked the Lupo up away form the front jack point and flattened the sill.

The repair weld passed the last attempt at MOT, but failed this time with no real change! worse still  "inadequately repaired". really not pleased about wasting money on that repair - unsure if I should open up the patch to see exactly what they have or have not done.

Emissions - failed both idel and fast idle.  I have added one of those thermal gaskets on the inlet manifold, it claims original gaskets are not required... starting to think this may be the issue. I did add a lambda pocket to over come too much oxygen fault, this may now not be seeing how much fuel its getting. Or the remapped ECU is chucking so much fuel in its always been over on emissions and the mechanic PO just got his mate to write out the test slip. Still got a standard Polo ECU to try, but it may not be happy with the inlet and exhaust manifolds. 

Engine light -  I checked on VCDS, ECU reported - 17526 lambda heating new lambda fitted??? 16686 cylinder 2 misfire - new plugs, coil and recent leads? Elsewhere in VCDS intermittent comms with outside temperature sensor. 

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I knew this was going to be a problem, but didnt plan to tackle it just now  - Got busy with the tin snips

4vOklQ.jpg

Construction at the sill is 3 pieces of steel connecting forming the vertical frame rail

  • in the middle - I assume inner sill - are vertical tabs spaced on 60mm centres, 25mm long 20mm wide. The ones remaining are beyond repair, most are rusted off - I assume these are the meat in the sandwich where the spot welds go? or do the spot welds go between the tabs??
  • Inner is the floor with a 25mm folded edge
  • outer is the sill also 25mm folded edge

At the front where the sill had been crushed, at the front the best surviving metal is the jack point. have to cut out 25mm into the floor and into outer sill about 30mm to the fold:

cp36I4.jpg

Middle, more tabs survived here and the repair patch i:

1nqTsO.jpg

I was pretty tired and peed off by this point, didn't feel like delving under the patch... suspect they have just covered up the hole, leaving rot still in place, will save that joy till another day:

CDiQoS.jpg

They had run a strip of metal at the rear between floor and frame rail, but nothing done to the vertical joint, considering how the rest of the sill is it will all be near to failure. And covered up the rust going up the sill.

I'm not going to rush this to get the car into retest. I have borrowed a Gas-Mig welder off my Brother in law, so far the repair plan is to use 1.2mm thick pre-made L shapes of steel, zinc coated to replace the strip on floor and outer sill, planning to drill holes 60mm apart in the vertical and plug weld. The zinc will create toxic gas, so respirator will be required.

Only mystery is replacing the tabs, unless there is a good reason for them being there I am currently not planning to replace each one

what purpose did they serve having a gap between? - to allow rustproofing to go into the spaces??

where did the spot welds occur? - I am not going to re-do each one as it will take forever replacing the tabs

This used to be part of my Lupo:

D2skKV.jpg

 

Edited by LR5V
Pictures not working
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

@LR5V Just read the entire thread, it provides some really great ideas. A few frustrations, especially the rust (your pics aren't working..). I hope you overcome them, i'm down in Edinburgh quite a lot, would be good to catch up. My lupo was at Volksfling last weekend, not sure if you made it?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cheers Guys - nothing really done. Family stuff getting in the way of important things like Lupo Gti's.

For some reason those pictures wouldnt post, will try to re-do them when I am home.

On 5/28/2019 at 11:45 PM, dougie1142 said:

@LR5V Just read the entire thread, it provides some really great ideas. A few frustrations, especially the rust (your pics aren't working..). I hope you overcome them, i'm down in Edinburgh quite a lot, would be good to catch up. My lupo was at Volksfling last weekend, not sure if you made it?

Afraid I was busy last weekend - I was hoping it was this coming weekend - I am just off Queenferry Road so easy to drop in.

The daily Mk4 has been having a hard time, but got some love  - I replaced both rear wheel bearings, really wish I had done them a lot sooner. I changed the stone guards, near-side was straight forward, off-side one stub axle bolt sheared and I couldn't get the remains out.... Also annoyingly the turbo seals are starting to let go, if I drive a short distance shut off the engine and restart  in 5 minutes I get grey smoke on boost for a few miles - suspect the turbo bearing is coked up. The good news is this means upgrades. 

For the Lupo -  I have fitted gaskets either side of the  inlet heat isolation gasket, started it a few times to move it out and back into the garage, the check engine light has not come back (yet! fingers crossed).

Currently in Glasgow - looking out on the regular wet Scottish summer, and as a random aside on Tuesday I saw a Seagull eating a pigeon in George Square!

For the welding - I will need dry weekend to drag the Lupo out and pull off the patch to see how far the rot had got.

The welder I have been lent has 0.8mm wire, with the panels 1.2mm thick, any advice if that will work?  Its a Clark welder with very few settings, but does have gas - I'm thinking I  may need to get  my hands on 0.6mm wire and nozzle, and Argon mix gas to help stop blowing holes

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Managed to got off my arse and got stuck into the patch

peeling it back they had not gone very far up the sill

O3AiXk.jpg

cant work out how the attached the patch at the top?

They literally covered over everything... even the body plugs, would have thought they would have removed these to reduce fire risk, but its becoming evident they didn't care

TA3VX9.jpg

You can see above the last of the patch folded over the sill seam, there was nothing except for filler and paint covering the edge of the flap in front of the rear wheel

MceN2c.jpg

I am a bit confused where the jack reinforcement is located, was expecting the same deal as front with a thicker vertical piece of frame.

There still is some patch attached to the floor pan, not sure why because it is solid there. Next time I am going to grind off the upper section of patch

This what was left with old stuff on the left and nearly the last of my £200 patch on the right

nxGmeU.jpg

And debris field

A8XKLT.jpg

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

0.8mm will be fine, you will be just doing overlapping spots for a lot of it anyway. Welding upside down is a pain in the ass (or ear when the weld blobs go in there) so get some height on the side if you can. Do some practice on your scrap, clean tight joints help a ton as does no wind if outside.

watch some urchfab for panel welding technique: 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.