Ian Daly Posted December 17, 2015 Report Share Posted December 17, 2015 (edited) Hi all Luckily I haven't had to call on you knowledgeable lot for a while but Coldplay failed her MOT because the damn airbag light won't go off! So far I tried to remove the fault by disconnecting the battery for a couple of hours, no luck there (unsurprisingly), next I purchased a lead and software (the 'recommended' £5.00 one, although it's only £4.37 now). Ran the test, warning came up about potential damage to controller on 2000 and 2001 cars if tested, mine is a late 2000, but I thought b@gger it as it's not working anyway, however it "failed to connect with controller" so I'm none the wiser. As I see it best case is that there's a dodgy connection somewhere that needs chasing down, worst case being the controller and bags are shot and will need replacing. Quick look on ebay shows me that even to replace all three units (inc controller) won't break the bank. My dilemma is now, can I replace the lot with modules from a later Lupe (ie not the potentially dodgy 2000/1 variety) or am I stuck with replacing like for like and not being able to read them or remove fault codes? Any other advice or suggestion would be most welcome? BTW is it as big a faff as it appears to be to get the dash apart, advice on this would be particularly welcome! Cheers all Ian Edited December 17, 2015 by Ian Daly Dash removal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skezza Posted December 17, 2015 Report Share Posted December 17, 2015 If the controller is toast, the bags won't be shot. The bags are rarely shot, I wouldn't worry about that. Replacing the module might not be as easy as you think though. There seems to be some debate as whether they're coded to the ECU, if they are, you'll be spending a few quid at least to get them coded. Here is what I'd do: 1. Try and connect to the module with the car switched on, so turn on ignition, plug in VAG-COM, try and connect using software. See what happens. 2. Assuming it doesn't connect, then there's a problem. Get on all fours down in the passenger footwell. Take the panel off next to the centre console, it's held on by one bolt. The airbag control module is under the carpet behind that plastic. You'll cringe (I did) but cut the carpet to reveal the module. The carpets hidden so it isn't a big deal, but do it nicely. Remove the plug (it's like a big ECU style plug held in by a clip) and clean it up and check for breaks in the wires. Plug back in. 3. Replace the module. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Daly Posted December 17, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 17, 2015 Hi Skezza Cheers for that fella, I have tried connecting up, that's when I got the "failed to connect with controller", but I note that you say turn ignition on and then connect, can that make a difference or am I grasping at straws with that thought? I'll give the controller removal/clean up a go for sure. My thinking was that maybe someone had already 'read' the module and as the warning said fritzed it! Fingers crossed, I'm due some good luck! Thanks again, Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carrera-gt Posted December 17, 2015 Report Share Posted December 17, 2015 The cassett connector that allows the wheel to turn while maintaining the airbag connection might be borken, they do wear out Simple test you can do, rermove the airbag disconect it, put a resistor 3.7 ohms from memory ( Need to look that up on the web to be sure ) across the airbag wire connector, swith on see if the light goes out. It's what you do when you fit an aftermarket steering wheel to fool the airbag controller into thinking the airbag is still present. If you have a broken wire you can go back down the wiring chain apply the resistor at each point when the light goes out you've found the break 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skezza Posted December 17, 2015 Report Share Posted December 17, 2015 2.7 ohm or 2.3 ohm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Daly Posted December 18, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 18, 2015 Hi All Had another go at it, VAG-com reports that it cannot connect to the controller no matter how I connect, so I think that was grasping at straws. However I did find a fault code that was described as intermittent on the immobiliser, any chance that might be affecting things? Following Carrera-gt's suggestion (thank you for that fella) I took off the D/S air-bag and was faced with what I assume you mean as the cassette connector, two pin jobbie on a flat lead that goes into the back of the boss? I don't have a resistor to hand so stuck a multi-meter in and checked current got a reading of 14-15 (presumably volts, sorry I'm piss-poor with electrics) so can I assume from that, that all is okay there? I'll get a resistor as described, at least I believe I can test that on the drivers side air-bag and either blame or eliminate that? Skezza, I found the controller, the carpet was already 'trimmed' so someone has been in there before, managed to withdraw the connector but couldn't figure out how to get the unit out and was sufficiently hacked off to call it a day at that point, so all in all non the wiser. So I think (and I'm prepared to be told I'm wrong) that the controller is carrying out the test correctly, because of the reading at the D/S air-bag, but one of the air-bags is fritzed, any other thoughts? One further though I had was, is there a sensor that detects any impact at the front of the car, if so could that be faulty? Thanks in anticipation for you replies/patience. Cheers Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skezza Posted December 18, 2015 Report Share Posted December 18, 2015 The resistor will fool the airbag module and you'll see no light. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carrera-gt Posted December 18, 2015 Report Share Posted December 18, 2015 Skezza is right if the module is working properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skezza Posted December 19, 2015 Report Share Posted December 19, 2015 It's a very solid way of testing. 2..3 ohm or 2.7 ohm imo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Daly Posted December 19, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 19, 2015 On my way to Maplin, very shortly, but only because I don't know of any decent electronics shop ! Cheers Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cj1 Posted December 24, 2015 Report Share Posted December 24, 2015 I didn't think the airbag controllers were coded to the ECU though? I have one if it turns out you need a replacement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cj1 Posted December 24, 2015 Report Share Posted December 24, 2015 On 12/18/2015 at 3:08 PM, Ian Daly said: Hi All Had another go at it, VAG-com reports that it cannot connect to the controller no matter how I connect, so I think that was grasping at straws. However I did find a fault code that was described as intermittent on the immobiliser, any chance that might be affecting things? Following Carrera-gt's suggestion (thank you for that fella) I took off the D/S air-bag and was faced with what I assume you mean as the cassette connector, two pin jobbie on a flat lead that goes into the back of the boss? I don't have a resistor to hand so stuck a multi-meter in and checked current got a reading of 14-15 (presumably volts, sorry I'm piss-poor with electrics) so can I assume from that, that all is okay there? I'll get a resistor as described, at least I believe I can test that on the drivers side air-bag and either blame or eliminate that? Skezza, I found the controller, the carpet was already 'trimmed' so someone has been in there before, managed to withdraw the connector but couldn't figure out how to get the unit out and was sufficiently hacked off to call it a day at that point, so all in all non the wiser. So I think (and I'm prepared to be told I'm wrong) that the controller is carrying out the test correctly, because of the reading at the D/S air-bag, but one of the air-bags is fritzed, any other thoughts? One further though I had was, is there a sensor that detects any impact at the front of the car, if so could that be faulty? Thanks in anticipation for you replies/patience. Cheers Ian It's been a while since i stripped down my Lupo, but from what I remember the controller is held on by 4 nuts, either 10mm or 13mm IIRC, but getting to these might not be very easy with a socket. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Daly Posted December 27, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 27, 2015 Sorry for delay in getting back to you guys, but at this time of year other thing take precedent. Ok, so I attached the resistors across both air bags, drivers side was relatively easy, passenger side not so much! The warning light did as ever, came on went off and came back on again, it did however seem to stay off for a noticeably longer period though. My thoughts are that it is the controller that is toast then, any thoughts or suggestion before changing this? Eventually I took the console apart and placed a cleverly cut bit of black tape over the warning light, just to get it through the MOT, my bad eh? Hoping you all had a very merry Christmas. Cheers Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Daly Posted December 27, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 27, 2015 On 24/12/2015 at 8:59 AM, cj1 said: I didn't think the airbag controllers were coded to the ECU though? I have one if it turns out you need a replacement. Thanks for the offer cj1, what are you looking at for this, I may well be taking you up on it BTW I think they're 10mm nuts and I really won't be looking forward to attempting their removal, the look like they're in a seriously inaccessible place, not sure on the number of them though as if there are four at least two would be impossible to reach with taking the whole dash apart, wouldn't fancy doing that again it was a royal pain! Cheers Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skezza Posted December 27, 2015 Report Share Posted December 27, 2015 Ian, where did you attach the resistor driver side? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Daly Posted December 28, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 28, 2015 (edited) You'll probably tell me I'm a chump but I simply bunged each end of the resistor into the connector on the end of the flexi-cable, did I do bad? Edited December 28, 2015 by Ian Daly to make a semblence of sense! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cj1 Posted December 29, 2015 Report Share Posted December 29, 2015 Yes there's definitely 4, one on each corner. You could probably get to them though maybe bending the plastic lightly that surrounds it, not sure though. I had it listed in the parts for sale thread for £15. Open to offers though, message me if you do need one. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skezza Posted December 29, 2015 Report Share Posted December 29, 2015 I'm just thinking, did you insert the resistor before the flex cable because obviously if the clock springs nailed the resistor trick ain't going work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Daly Posted December 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 30, 2015 (edited) 23 hours ago, cj1 said: Yes there's definitely 4, one on each corner. You could probably get to them though maybe bending the plastic lightly that surrounds it, not sure though. I had it listed in the parts for sale thread for £15. Open to offers though, message me if you do need one. I'll probably come back to you on this, unfortunately the missus is using the car for work, I have to get the other 'car' (Frontera) through it's MOT (bad month for this sort of thing) so I can get the Lupe back to work on! Cheers Ian Edited December 30, 2015 by Ian Daly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Daly Posted December 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 30, 2015 (edited) 20 hours ago, Skezza said: I'm just thinking, did you insert the resistor before the flex cable because obviously if the clock springs nailed the resistor trick ain't going work. Yup, you've surpassed my knowledge/ability there bud! Clock spring? (edit) Ah, are you saying that the whole air bag containing boss has to be replaced or the trick won't work, so the clock spring is the circlip the retains it? Cheers Ian Edited December 30, 2015 by Ian Daly My thought process is slow! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skezza Posted December 30, 2015 Report Share Posted December 30, 2015 6 hours ago, Ian Daly said: Yup, you've surpassed my knowledge/ability there bud! Clock spring? (edit) Ah, are you saying that the whole air bag containing boss has to be replaced or the trick won't work, so the clock spring is the circlip the retains it? Cheers Ian No. If you take the steering cowl off, you'll see the distinctive yellow connector. That's where you should put the resistor. You will also need to try and connect to the module again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Daly Posted December 31, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2015 15 hours ago, Skezza said: No. If you take the steering cowl off, you'll see the distinctive yellow connector. That's where you should put the resistor. You will also need to try and connect to the module again. Yup, did that, was just wondering what you meant by "clock springs"? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skezza Posted December 31, 2015 Report Share Posted December 31, 2015 10 hours ago, Ian Daly said: Yup, did that, was just wondering what you meant by "clock springs"? Clock spring, slip ring, squib, same thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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