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K&N 57i Performance Intake Kits


elisa
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I'm not sure if this is right place to ask this, but

My Lupo is 1.4 TDI 2001. I'm planning to buy K&N 57i Intake Kit, but there's not model for Diesel Lupos. I'm just wondering does VW Polo 1.4 tdi Intake Kit fit to also Lupo.

If someone could be nice and link the right intake kit for me here?

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  • 2 weeks later...

Why would you want to fit one? The cone would be much smaller than the current filter.

because I r race car.

Totally agree with dblock though. Simply no point in a cone filter. Diesel lupos have quite a nice cold air intake system, straight from the factory. Why would you want to rip all that out and replace it with a cheap cone filter that'll do nothing but suck in warm air?

If it's induction roar you're after, you might as well drill some holes in your air box. No idea how it'll sound on a diesel mind.

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Totally agree with Skezza / Dblock, indiction noise comes from air through the throttle valve, Diesels don't have one so you won't get the same noise. Diesels have a safety flap to shut off the air if the engine runs away for example turbo seal failure as happened to my friends landrover it only stopped after iit had burned most of it's engine oil as fuel.

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Totally agree with Skezza / Dblock, indiction noise comes from air through the throttle valve, Diesels don't have one so you won't get the same noise. Diesels have a safety flap to shut off the air if the engine runs away for example turbo seal failure as happened to my friends landrover it only stopped after iit had burned most of it's engine oil as fuel.

there's also the fact that oiled aftermarket filters are known to coat/damage the MAF resulting in the car running lean... You don't want that on a turbo.
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Outdated and untrue.

really? There's no smoke without fire (literally :P). Plenty of people have had damaged MAF's from oiled filters.
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really? There's no smoke without fire (literally :P). Plenty of people have had damaged MAF's from oiled filters.

Yes, please give me some sources. I myself have used oiled filters with MAF and MAP sensors without worry.

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But you're just one person. I've used an induction kit on a MAF and had no trouble either but there are a fair few people who have run into problems with MAF/MAP. Now whether that's directly linked to the oiled filter, we don't actually know. After all, there's oil flying everywhere including back through the stock air intake and MAC's are susceptible at the best of times.

Although I don't know for sure, I've always come to the most obvious conclusion that it all depends on how oiled they are. Whether this means some people over oil their filters I don't know. Don't forget some filters do not come oiled and require you to do that part.

Ultimately, on a naturally aspirated car, the only real problem is your car feeling under powered and running like ****. Run a turbo car lean and you'll knacker your turbo. Simple.

Edited by Skezza
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I have washed my filters and re oiled them with no consequence.

Yes I am one person but I can bet you any amount it's the same on most forums. Espaiclaly with high performance cars.

Skezza I think you will find your last statement is completely wrong. You run lean on a turbo you wil blow the engine. The turbo isn't affected bar temperature. If you start detting or are running lean you can melt your engine. Most turbo cars are meant to run richer than Stoich for this reason under boost and at higher temps.

It's no good to run lean in a na but a turbo will exacerbate the problem.

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To the OP, you'd be best off measuring the inlet pipe (where the K&N would fit) and just buying a generic filter off ebay which is of the correct diameter.

I'd say the Polo 1.4TDI kit would probably fit as it's an identical engine, but the 57i kits are expensive so you'd be best off buying a second hand cone filter on ebay.

All this about oiled filters ruining your MAF isn't true - nor will you ever "knacker your turbo" from running an open air filter.

Although, don't expect to get any performance gains from it - just more noise!

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I have washed my filters and re oiled them with no consequence.

Yes I am one person but I can bet you any amount it's the same on most forums. Espaiclaly with high performance cars.

Skezza I think you will find your last statement is completely wrong. You run lean on a turbo you wil blow the engine. The turbo isn't affected bar temperature. If you start detting or are running lean you can melt your engine. Most turbo cars are meant to run richer than Stoich for this reason under boost and at higher temps.

It's no good to run lean in a na but a turbo will exacerbate the problem.

Having just done a bit of Googling, you're absolutely correct. You learn something everyday. I always believed the lack of fuel would cause the turbo to overheat.

Correct you are and I've learnt something today :) Still don't agree regarding the MAF lark.... or with Cooper.

To the OP, you'd be best off measuring the inlet pipe (where the K&N would fit) and just buying a generic filter off ebay which is of the correct diameter.

I'd say the Polo 1.4TDI kit would probably fit as it's an identical engine, but the 57i kits are expensive so you'd be best off buying a second hand cone filter on ebay.

All this about oiled filters ruining your MAF isn't true - nor will you ever "knacker your turbo" from running an open air filter.

Although, don't expect to get any performance gains from it - just more noise!

It was an oiled filter.

Edited by Skezza
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Having just done a bit of Googling, you're absolutely correct. You learn something everyday. I always believed the lack of fuel would cause the turbo to overheat.

Correct you are and I've learnt something today :) Still don't agree regarding the MAF lark.... or with Cooper.

It was an oiled filter.

You obviously have no idea how a turbo works... Can you imagine putting fuel in a metal housing that reaches over 1000 degrees...?

And yes I know you're on about an 'oiled filter'. You should put oil on all aftermarktet air filters... Whether it be a foam oem replacement or an open cone filter. Dust, dirt and micro-particles stick to the oil, preventing it getting through the filter.

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Skezza you are perfectly entitled to your own opinion.

Even if it's wrong lol. Honestly though I wouldn't run one if it messed up my maf. Not worth it IMO.

Heh, well, I quite like these discussions on ClubLupo. Bit different to the whole "will my 17 inch 8J blinging shiny chrome rimz fit my 1.0 wheezebox". Plus it brings out the difference sides of the debate. You know for example, that I really don't believe an aftermarket air filter is such a good idea, for more reasons than one, but fundamentally, because without some kind of extra tuning, I don't believe you'll feel any benefit whatsoever over the factory airbox and if it's just noise you want, you can easily drill your pre-filter side.

As for the MAF issue, heh, agree to disagree. It's never happened to me, nor anyone I know, but there's plenty of people who claim it has happened to them and I can also see the scientific reasoning behind it. After all, oil is fundamentally a viscous liquid state and moving air is known to move liquid. Sea breeze? Hair dryers? Hand dryers? They're moving liquid particles, the only difference is water is low in viscosisty.

I read K&N's article on the MAF 'myth' as they referred to it and while I felt they made a lot of very good points, there was a lot of language that left a lot to be desired. They supposedly spent years testing the MAF myth in a laboratory and couldn't once reproduce the issue. However, they were very open about the fact their test involved 'normal' driving conditions without actually giving a scientific specification as to what normal driving conditions are. Is this inside? Outside? Dyno with a fan? The desert? Your car sucks in more air, the higher your RPM's, so were they bashing 1800 revs and holding it, or were they revving to 9000 revs. Now, I appreciate doing it a lab, they probably didn't involve a car, rather a series of fans etc, however can they reproduce those conditions in a lab? The other thing I noticed, they suggested that over 300 MAF's had been sent to them in 7 years, due to dealers telling them their aftermarket filter had caused the issue and apparently not one had a trace of K&N oil. Fine. Very valid point. That doesn't mean anything though, because I've seen people oiling them with all kinds of ****, even vegetable oil and it also means that over oiled filters probably weren't included in that research because they will be oiled correctly straight from the factory.

Heh, regardless, it's an interesting debate subject and I'm enjoying it. Whether i'm right or wrong is actually irrelevant though. I won't be fitting one any time soon, and if he wants to, I aren't stopping him :P

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You obviously have no idea how a turbo works... Can you imagine putting fuel in a metal housing that reaches over 1000 degrees...?

And yes I know you're on about an 'oiled filter'. You should put oil on all aftermarktet air filters... Whether it be a foam oem replacement or an open cone filter. Dust, dirt and micro-particles stick to the oil, preventing it getting through the filter.

No. Of course I do know how a turbo works. I guess I didn't really explain myself properly. I meant the lack of fuel causes the engine to run lean, which would cause the oil to heat up significantly more, and if it gets hot enough, can cause the oil in the turbo burn up and solidify which causes premature failure, overheating being just that issue. This used to happen all the time on Renault 5's for example. Probably doesn't happen as much now seeing as most turbo's are water cooled, but still, that was the point I was making.

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