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lupo SDI tuning


agilecanonbal
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Regarding the air filter, I know it's suggested to leave the stock one in place, but if I fancied making or buying another more easily breathing intake, what would I do with the filter sensors? Think there's two of them along the intake tube, just unclip them? Or re-plumb them somewhere? Read another guys post, who's got blue piping in his engine bay and just a cone filter in place of the intake tubes, but doesn't state what's been done with the sensors! Any suggestions? Muchos gazios....

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There is NO thing as an easier breather intake on diesel. The whole point of them is to run "lean" to fill the cylinder with air. You even seen a diesel filter? It's huge way bigger than any cone you could put on. It will sound like a tractor too, sexy. But each to their own.

If you have a maf or map then leave them in place.

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:) I have seen them and are quite big compared to some other filters I suppose, just after seeing the PIC of the the other SDI with it done was curious as to how they did it?https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=i&rct=j&q=lupo+sdi+tuning&source=images&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0CAcQjRw&url=http%3A%2F%2Fforums.clublupo.co.uk%2Findex.php%3F%2Ftopic%2F25420-17-sdi-power%2F&ei=iGbjVPX9DsGBUdSFgtAJ&bvm=bv.85970519,d.d24&psig=AFQjCNHq1h06eDpkT47Ye2THJQvia6fCyQ&ust=1424275460622686 this is the PIC in question.... Think it's the tenth post down..... Edited by agilecanonbal
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Also, I've noticed since I've bought the car, it gets around 85 miles to £10, according to what I've read, it should be achieving more than this? The car (which you can now all now know I call the donkey) has had two services in the last 5k miles, including one full service from gearbox oil to fuel filter, so was hoping for a little more mpg's, or is this actually the real life mpg's? Also thanks again to everyone for all the help and advice, has helped a lot, you're all a kind bunch :)

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Also, I've noticed since I've bought the car, it gets around 85 miles to £10, according to what I've read, it should be achieving more than this? The car (which you can now all now know I call the donkey) has had two services in the last 5k miles, including one full service from gearbox oil to fuel filter, so was hoping for a little more mpg's, or is this actually the real life mpg's? Also thanks again to everyone for all the help and advice, has helped a lot, you're all a kind bunch :)

work out your Mpg, ambiguous figures are totally useless.
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Worked out using online calculator, is approx 46 mpg. Heard of people ragging their cars and still getting more than this.....I drive sensibly and occasionally heavy foot it! Would the diesel purge help these figures?

that a brim to brim calculation?

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No, it isn't and that's why I'm saying do it properly. The fuel gauge is useless for this task. Fill it up, till it clicks. Reset your odometer. Drive till nearly empty. Fill up. Calculate MPG from litres on pump and miles on odometer. 9/10 people think they're getting rubbish MPG because they're not working it out correctly.

Once you've done that, come back and post your figures.

Just a few points though, I thrash my SDI and still get very good MPG but I also use the rules of hypermiling to help save every last drop of fuel. Reading up on this will help improve your driving from an economy perspective. My current record is 79MPG which is 1 MPG more than Volkswagen were able to achieve in testing.

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I did check it that way when I first got the donkey but can't remember what results I got, but think I only got 300 miles to an overflowing tank!, so will do another brim to brim calculation soon :) skezza that's some impressive mpgs! I hope I can achieve those kind of results, if I am getting poor mpgs I'll have to investigate potential problems further. On another note, was thinking of getting a decat this weekend, but deciding against it now as apparently new mot rules state that the mot tester must look for a cat, and if it cannot be seen then it's an mot fail! Could always keep the cat and have it put on for mot, too much of a faffle I think.

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300 for a full tank is pretty poor in my opinion. However, I suggest doing it again before we jump to any conclusions. One thing you should always remember though is there's no such thing as spontaneous combustion. If your MPG is poor, then your fuel is going somewhere. On diesels this is especially true as when a diesel runs rich as you should be seeing plenty of soot and **** out of the exhaust if that's the case.

It may just be a case that you need a new air filter, new fuel filter, give it a good service, clean the inlet manifold etc and a diesel purge. You'll have it running good as new. These engines last forever mate.

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Skezza you're a gent for for your help mate, I've done a full service just 2k miles ago, which included gearbox oil change, fuel/air/oil filter, and engine oil, also the coolant was replaced when the cam belt and water pump was done. So as suggested before, I'll have to try a diesel purge, although I do use red ex, it seems not all that good from what you guys say, don't have the confidence to try a purge myself so will have to find someone who offers the service, Hoping the mpg's will rise after! thanks again for the advice :)

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Skezza you're a gent for for your help mate, I've done a full service just 2k miles ago, which included gearbox oil change, fuel/air/oil filter, and engine oil, also the coolant was replaced when the cam belt and water pump was done. So as suggested before, I'll have to try a diesel purge, although I do use red ex, it seems not all that good from what you guys say, don't have the confidence to try a purge myself so will have to find someone who offers the service, Hoping the mpg's will rise after! thanks again for the advice :)

Redex is a bit snake oily for me. It was designed for old petrol carbies and I think it was useful in this scenario, although I've been told many of the ingredients that made it good (i.e. it's ability to clean carbon) have been totally removed and the old way of dripping redex straight into a carbie now doesn't do anything.

Modern diesel redex basically works by increasing the octane of your fuel slightly (more so, if you put more in) and I believe it has some sort of lubricating detergent that picks up grunge and takes it straight out of your tank into your fuel filter. I know some people consider it basically fancy coloured paraffin really, although it maybe ethanol as some of the other ones are simply that. Not 100% on the ingredients, but I know the science behind it.

With a higher octane the fuel then burns hotter so you'll feel a bit of an improvement in power and perhaps it'll clean a little bit of muck out. However, one of the instructions of Redex is to take your car for a spirited drive and this is where I think it gets murky because this will inevitably clear some of the filth out anyway!! You should regularly take a diesel for an Italian tuneup and it's one of the things I recommend right before an MOT. Driving an SDI, if you take it for a real thrash where you hammer it right through the gears you will notice afterwards that it feels better and pulls better. This is very normal for a diesel. When I take my Lupo up the motorway, I sometimes get it right up to top speed (about 95 ish) and I'll instantly notice after getting back down that it feels better. No need for Redex in this case!

Diesel purge, however, is different. Diesel purge is super high octane solution. You don't drive your car with Diesel Purge, you simply run it in idle and run it at about 2000 revs with about two or three hard red-line revs. Diesel purge burns incredibly hot (due to it's super high octane) and is able to actually burn away most of the carbon and gunk that can coke up your injectors, pre-chambers and combustion chambers. Unlike redex, diesel purge isn't diluted so the amount of burn you get is more than you'll ever get with the in-tank stuff.

Obviously I've done a thread on How To do it, and you can also check out this thread which has some good tips too!

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=87948

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You're a star mate, will look into giving this a go :) also interesting about the fuel additives such as redex! The fuel lines that go from the filter to the fuel intake, just connect them together so nothing can come out of the filter, then can run the purge lines to the fuel intake pipes that go into the engine, Than start and run engine till all purge has been used, but guessing stop the engine just before the purge is completely used as to avoid air bing sucked in, then reconnect all lines as before disassembly.think I've got it :)

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Also, the engine breather pipe that goes into the air intake box, thinking I should block this of as the egr has been deleted, so seems pointless to have it and just undo the effects of egr delete!is my way of thinking correct? If so just block it or put a mini k&n on the pipe coming from the engine, and block the pipe going into the air intake? Cheers

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You're a star mate, will look into giving this a go :) also interesting about the fuel additives such as redex! The fuel lines that go from the filter to the fuel intake, just connect them together so nothing can come out of the filter, then can run the purge lines to the fuel intake pipes that go into the engine, Than start and run engine till all purge has been used, but guessing stop the engine just before the purge is completely used as to avoid air bing sucked in, then reconnect all lines as before disassembly.think I've got it :)

Spot on. Although all depends how hard it is to purge the lines on your car? On an SDI, you remove the bleed nipple and crank until it starts.

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No matter, had a look and going to get a catch can, or just plug a longer tube down through the engine bay for any vapours to escape, seems the vapours are just adding to the air mixture, can't be good for performance, got in the donkey yesterday and was surprised how it pulled! All the work so far has paid off :) thanks again for the help everyone:) will put a little blog up soon officially introducing myself and the interesting introduction to the lupo world.

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