LINCOLNSHIRESLUPOGTI

Sure its not a Gti. They are Gti wings but as already mentioned the track width is too narrow which is why wheels look lost in the arches. Lupo Gti has a wider front track width hence the wheels fill the arches more. Doesnt have Gti wipers either!

There is a Gti on Autotrader at moment for £6800. Cant remember spec but am worried they are getting below 7K as its getting into Chav terratory now style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":evil:" border="0" alt="evil.gif" />

This is an amazing post, well enjoying it. Nice to see how the project goes, scared of hacking my Gti for the 20vt and seems a lot of work. However if the conversion goes well then I know who I will be talking to about my (impossible?) quest for a 200bhp cammed, throttle bodied Gti engine. (p.s. ive never had a turbo car so im sure im probly missing out but had throttle bodies and wow did they make an aural orgasm every time I opened the throttle).

Slight deviance here but my 4 cars I have considered buying in last year. 1. TT Roadster (actually talked through a p/x with my car but the dealer only offered me 8K for my car...after the 6K offer and me laughing in his face) 2. TVR Cerbera 4.2 (14K for good ones now) 3. Focus RS (fast and how well do they handle...edit ok not over the bumps then) 4. MK4 Astra Gsi turbo 3door hatch (been looking at these in carparks for a while now but its an Astra. Nice interior though, feels more special than the Focus RS which is basic and cheap with 2 fancy front seats and a starter button!)

Remind me never to buy a car from you... :shock: :shock: :shock: I plan to keep my car a while so ran it in very kindly as once my warranty is up I dont want no problems. Also if you glaze the bores by not running it in properly then you are likely to loose performance from the engine as the rings dont seal properly and the car suffers from loss of compression and oil drinking. Hire cars and courtesy cars are for nailing...bet none of them ever get run in!

Glad that/ hope that this thread has been useful to ya all. May be useful to remember if any of you have a similar problem (VW think its a common problem) though I hope none of us see it again. @ Andy...glad I wasnt paying either mate. Think inlet valves were £8ish each and exhaust valves £7ish each. Labour is £65/hr for 2 days plus all the sundries like oil, coolant etc and then VAT! All I paid for was 2 cambelts and 2 tensioners and they got fitted free as it was part of the warranty job. Bit early for cambelt I suppose but i would have been required within the next year and as I got it labour free (and peace of mind) thought id get it done. Still got the slight stutter at low revs, may be the lambda sensor getting duff readings as the cat is severly stinky so think its about `k-nakereded`. Surprisingly they didnt comment on the cleanliness of my engine bay...the dealers usually do!

I may get round to trying a `non-Gti` Polo dash sometime. Trimming stuff doesnt bother me... wheel arches, front wheels to clear brakes, front calliper carriers, front splitter, Audi rear wiper. My angle grinder has met nearly every bit of my car so the dash wont worry it. *edit* I didnt mean the whole dash, just the passenger side lower part and glovebox!

BEEN AWAY FROM MY DESK FOR NEARLY 2 WEEKS SO HERE IS THE UPDATE ON THIS THREAD. Car was repaired in only 2 days with the work done as in my previous posts. Didnt get a new catalyst though so it still stinks when I thrash the car. Car runs nice, really been hammering it as wanted to make sure the repair wouldnt be a five minute job and break the first time I pushed the car. No problems as yet apart from a small misfire/stutter about `1200-1500rpm`, regardless of gear used, that happens now n again. Wonder if the misfire is anything to do with the head work (didnt you suffer this Twisty?) or maybe its a problem with the throttle switch still as it only does it on a very light throttle.

There is a metro Gti in Lincoln...with an MGF engine in...killed me Lupo about a month ago. Looked standard rust, small wheels etc etc...total stealth and I had to give the guy credit. Fooled me into racing (wanted to laugh at it) then totally humiliated me. Fair play.

Ive asked 2 VW dealers as well and neither will sell me the parts. WTF? I cant understand why they wont sell it, they are making money arn't they!

Open the boot and look between the boot rubber seal and the light clusters. These is 1 Torz screw about half way down the light cluster. Remove the screw and pull the light cluster outwards and rearwards. Then unplug wiring plug, remove back of light cluster and change bulbs as required. Refit. May sound tricky but this is honestly very easy. 10 minute job.

I have my car back at moment and its fine. They span engine over at about 1600rpm on the starter with no plugs in (and therefore no compression) and then took it out for a "thrash" and its been ok for the last 70 miles. Its going in next Thursday for 3 days to all be done and im having a courtesy car. The dealer is like the one is use at S****horpe (ie: privately owned) so they take care with customer service. HERON VW IN NEWARK. As they are fine with modifications im going to ask them if its ok to fit an induction kit to the car when its fixed...perhaps one of those BMC ones style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":D" border="0" alt="biggrin.gif" />

Info Went to see VW last night (a new dealer for me this time in Newark as they can repair it before S****horpe and I will never use Lincoln in my life as you all know). The guy I spoke to was absolutally spot on. He has a modified 1.8T, races cars and loves the Lupo Gti. Said he totally understands the interest in modified cars and will make sure my car is treated like I treat it so a good start. We talked for half an hour about modified cars and VW's in general, really nice guy he was. Car is having under warranty `1-a` set of new valves. `2-keeping` the existing head as dont want to introduce problems with a fitting a new but having the chambers cleaned and polished up, and the valve seats all `re-cut` and the new valves lapped in (though that is just the standard practice). `3-keeping` current cams unless they are damaged. `4-free` oil, coolant service, `5-both` cambelts & both tensioners replaced labour free (just got to pay for the bits). Get this as `well-Approx` £25 per belt and approx £40 per tensioner! If I was paying its 3.5hrs @ £65hr labour as well! `6-maybe` a new catalyst if it has been damaged at all. Problem Problem is a sticking inlet on cylinder 4 though its not really sticking more just not fully seating closed in the head. This is apparently a known problem, on the VW 16v engines and is quite common (if I was paying its approx £500 to repair). Points of interest I have found out. `1-the` cat costs £700 new! `2-there` are 2 cambelts. 1 for the crank to one cam. Then another from the crank driven cam to the other cam. (This is similar to older VW 16v engines but they used a chain between the 2 cams). `3-the` Lupo Gti engine can happily be revved to 9000rpm (this is commonly done in motorsport on the Lupo and Polo Gti) so our limiter is set very conservative. `4-the` valves in VW 16v engines not only go up and down (like a normal car then lol) but also index around a few degress with every `up-down` cycle so they are always cleaning the valve seat and locating properly in the head. This is done to stop them sticking...what went wrong with my car then!

Car is in the dealers now and has been diagnosed with a stuck inlet valve. They wouldnt give me a loan car so i hired one and VW are paying (haha). Getting my car back tonight then its going in next week for... ...a full top end rebuild with new valves, new cams, head regrind etc under warranty. Also means that I wont have to pay for a new cambelt as they will be doing that at the same time. They reckon that it is a common problem with the Lupo and Polo Gti engine so get worried guys!

How the hell did you find a leather interior from a Gti? :shock: I have been looking for about a year now. style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":(" border="0" alt="sad.gif" />

Not the pedal box problem is it? If it crunched into all gears I would question whether the clutch is disengauging fully as its unlikely you would crunch all gears if it was a gearbox problem. If it is the pedal box you can complain like hell until they do it free seing as VW know its a problem part.

Update I was sooo wrong with the above post. Put some Redex through the car and then a full tank of Optimax. Problem is now back only now its worse. Constant misfire, ECU light on, strong smell of hot catalyst and no power. BMC was removed @ 5:30 this morning in case I didnt make it to work. Courtesy car for me I think. Beggining to think it could be throttle switch as once it starts to misfire the only way to stop it is to shut the thriottle then `re-open` it carefully and car will accelerate again. Seems worse at `1500-3000rpm` with a light throttle as well. I will keep this up to date incase it turns out to be something that could affect you guys motors as well.

Good points Meeting everyone again and managing to have a chat with pretty much everyone who came along. Nice to meet all of you I have not met before. The weather...31deg C all day. The Lupo's (and Arosa's) , the regulars and some new cars not seen before. Snoopstah for fixing my car (see car maintenance section for more details). Still owe you a beer mate. Sarah's mum for making us a lovely tea with loads of food and drink. Sat in her back garden in the sun all talking cars made for a wicked end to the day. Bad points Having to drive to Trax on 3 cylinders (see car maintenance section for more details). 2 and a half hour wait to get in show (crap organisation by the show, did they not expect it to be busy). This problem was lightened slightly by Max managing to upset both the Saxo club and the Focus club by calling them all w*nkers and c*nts...abit over the top but Max had a point that they should be queue jumping and it was funny at the time). Trax...a sunstrip, badly fitted bodykit, neons and some kind of shopping list on your doors does not make a modified car. Yes there were alot of nice cars there (mainly the VW's, Seat's, the coswaorth stands and even some of the 106/Saxo's that were tastefully done). But I saw too much of the "if i stick lots of bits from Halfords on my car then it can be classed as modified". "if you stick lots of bits from Halfords on my car then it can be classed as crap".

Problem I filled up with petrol last thing Friday night (so car was brimmed ready for Trax) with cheap supermarket petrol then drove half a mile home to my house. I didnt use car Saturday as I spent all day cleaning it. Set off Sunday morning for Trax and within 15 miles the car started `mis-firing`. Ignored it and carried on but problem got worse and worse and started to flash the ECU light. Filled up with BP Ultimate (97 RON) near Trax but after a few more miles ECU light came on permanently and I was limited to 2000rpm. Once at the show Snoopstah VAGCOM'd me car and detected a lean mixture and `mis-fire` on cylinder number 4. He cleared the fault and all seemed well. Then after a few mile on the way home `mis-fire` returned but ECU light never came on. Drove steady for a few more miles then gave it some loud pedal and all seemed well. Did the 130mile journey home with random blasts wuth full throttle and all was fine. Theory Cylinder 4 is nearest the BMC so mayge gets slightly more air than the others. I have never used supermarket petrol before as normally use 98RON Optimax. I think that the combination of cheap petrol and high airflow of the BMC leaned the mixture too much on cylinder 4 causing the lean mixture fault and the misfire due to weak mixture. Once the 97RON started to get sucked through on the way home the car ran fine and no problem since. Moral Avoid cheap petrol. There have been many reports of it bringing the emmision light on, now I think it can cause the ECU light to come on (though maybe only if you have an induction kit which will force more air into the engine).

Is the bloke in the fourth picture having a pi55 on the R32?

@ TIGZ...Lupo (6 speed) does 80 in 3rd on limiter. Nova has induction kit, fancy manifold, `de-cat` pipe & exhaust system. May be cammed as well, we are not sure but it pull well at high revs so think it could be. It goes of the speedo but think it maxes about 120ish in real speed.

Me and my mate were both driving home last night, had been doing a steady 60mph with him behind me for about 5 miles when we turn onto a (private) country road we both know well as we use it about 4 times a day every day. About half a mile later my mate pulls out and overtakes me. 6th to 4th to 3rd and Im straight up behind him but he keeps it nailed so I match his speed behind him. There is 4 mile of straight clear road ahead so we both keep it nailed and keep accelerating. Just under a 100mph I am into 5th still accelerating though fethering the throttle so I dont drive into the back of the Nova. I hit the limiter in 5th and shift into 6th and the Nova seems flat out as it stops accelerating. I pull out and cruise past him but decide to keep it nailed. 130mph, 135mph and the Lupo is making an awesome induction noise, like its about to `self-destruct`, a real hard edges bark. Think I was pretty much flat out but speedo was still creeping up slowly! I slowed down and we both drove the rest of our ways home at about 70mph. Mate text me later saying his speedo was off the clock at approx 130mph when I passed him so I guess he was probly doing about 120ish. Ties up I suppose as mine said 130mph when I overtook him and Im sure my speedo under reads a little with the 17's on. No more fast driving for a while now as I feel guilty for thrashing the car and it time to start cleaning for the weekend!

Page 4 says Gti has alarm with interior (movement i guess) sensors as standard.

Thought Cat 2 was just an immobiliser??? Guess then the Lupo immobiliser must be rated at Cat 2 and the alarm not rated (just there as a token gesture really). Overall rating would stay at 2 then courtesy of immobiliser. Im sure I read somewhere the Gti is Cat 1 rated...hence insurance group quite low...i'll happily stand corrected though. style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" />

Ive had my door locks and the locking linkage bar removed so no lolly stick entry in to mine! Windows easy to break though just like any car. Gti has a Cat 1 alarm and immobiliser which is very good. And deadlocking.