Deadmetal

Buy the best you can afford. If you can afford them, get KW v1s.

The best you can afford.

Depends how you do it and how define comfort. Shocks and springs for a fixed 60mm drop will be your best bet, as the srpings won't be as hard as coilovers as they won't need to of been made stiff enough to handle extreme lowering. KW coilovers will be your best bet if you go the coilover route. As always, it comes down to buying the best you can afford. My AP coilover are reasonable when it comes to comfort. They're stiff but they're not harsh. The lower the went the bumpier they got.

The 1.4 non sport comes with standard 13inch steels. So yes, they'll fit.

Springs will put the car at a height it should of been when I came out of the factory. If you want to go properly low you'll need coilovers, you'll be much better off handling wise (if you buy decent ones) with coilovers, as the spring and damper rates will properly matched for the car and each other.

I use a M audio interface and the pro tools software that came with it. I have a mic and all that jazz. The Jam Up app makes recorsing so much quicker and easier. This one has 4 tracks, two each side, using the different metal amps in the app.

I'd start with getting in contact with the guy you baught the Lupo off. See if he still has the adjusters.

Yay, sacrifice grip for looks!!

Dude, the guitar work in that awesome. Music style ins't for me though. This was recorded using a Ipod app. Thing is awesome. Riff is simple, just testing the soft and hard ware.

Just north of Portsmouth.

I hope people think that, would like to sell it soon. Wanna start on the next car. Yes. They'll be around £100 posted. Need to find out how much postage is for them to confirm a price. Local post office is shut untill the 13th though.

Price drop to £1800. Would like this gone soon.

A dump valve dumps the air pressure out of the intake system when the throttle is closed to prevent boost trying to flow back through the turbo.

Sell it and buy a sport or GTI. No such thing a cheap power on small, NA engines.

At last! Some who doesn't need to be spoon fed! You'll deff need bigger injectors, can't help on flow rate, some might be able to help on that matter. (bigger is usally better) Forged internals are a good thing, depends on how much boost you plan on running, more boost = more likely tomelt the standard stuff. If the pistons are lower compression than standard then you won't need a decompression plate. A quick google seems to suggest that dump/blow off valves are not needed for superchargers. That's all I can help with. Don't take anything I've posted as gospel though, much more used to how turbo set ups work.

Trim fix high heat is what I've used and seems to be the choice on here. Stops the fabric coming unglued when it's ht.

Instant MOT fail. If it came out of the factory with a cat then it has to have one.

Want to know the best way to educate your self? DO IT YOUR SELF! Don't rely on other people to do it for you. You're on the internet, the font of all knowledge, the only ignorance is through laziness.

AP seems to be the only ones using a spring perch that uses a grub screw to lock into position instead of a locking collar. If the thread pitch and diameter is the same, they should work. You'll to either get them from the place you're buying or from some one who has the coilovers you're looking to replace with. Possibility of a different damper rate could make the car a bit wierd to drive.

The best you can afford, they're the one thing that is in contact with the road. I can recommned Falken ZSE912 tyres for a good all round tyre. I have 195/45s on 15x7 wheels and they're great, good grip in all weathers and they seem to wear well. They're supposed to stretch well too.

http://forums.clublupo.co.uk/index.php?/topic/31082-caspers-supercharged-gti-replacement-car-has-been-bought/?hl=supercharged Read that. It'll tell you everything you need to know about charging a Lupo.

This was done for giggles Drop tuned to G#. Only 4 and a half steps down lol.

No worries. Glad I could help.

Headlining stays in. The mount bit pulls one way, one end pops out and then the rest slides out. The screw holding it on needs removing first.

On the clip side, the cover comes off and there is a couple of screws. On the side that the visor is attached to, there is a screw cover that pops off with the help of a screwdriver and, after taking the screw out, the visor will need a wiggle back and forth to slide it out. Can't remmember which way it needs sliding.