Brammo

Ok so the gearbox is pretty much finished after 122k miles, pretty sure it's the pinion bearing. Standard symptoms such as incredible whining noise in 3rd 4th and 5th. Need my car as quickly as possible so will replace first with cheap 1.4s box if I can't find a sport one quick enough. Then I will attempt to rebuild my sport box over the next few months then swap them out again. I won't swap the clutch because it was only changed about 20k miles ago but the release bearing is a little noisy so I wanted to swap that. Also the last time I had my gearbox out there is a metal sleeve that sits over the input shaft of the gearbox which if I remember correctly the release bearing fits over. This had worn so badly last time it was rubbing on the input shaft of the box. So my question is, will this sleeve be the same for the sport and non sport box? And are the release bearings the same? I just want to make sure I order the right parts so i don't run in to any problems when taking changing everything over. Also just in general, will there be any compatibility issues with using a non sport box? I assumed that all the 085 boxes would be interchangeable. P.S. If you have a box in decent condition for sale sport or non sport please pm me.

It needs re-aligning. http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Throttle_Body_Alignment_%28TBA%29

I'll take the sun visors if they haven't gone.

Does it have the aero wiper arms, if so you still got em?

Where can I get a pair of the nankangs?

At the minute Bridgestone Potenza RE040. The back Rainsport 2's. http://retrorides.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=general&action=print&thread=115300 If you scroll to the bottom of that it shows a picture with the 165/55's fitted and I quite like the look of them so I reckon I will give camskill a call in the morning and buy a couple of them.

It is such a ball ache

I have 15x8s at the back and 15x7s at the front and am currently running 195/45 on the 8's and 165/50s on the 7s. I really don't like the stretch on the 7's and it also doesn't match up very well with the rear tyres. So I thought I would take a look at 175/50s but they don't appear to have hardly any stretch at all. I am looking at Kumho's in particular. Is it because they have different sidewalls? I am just confused how the gradient of the tyre wall can vary so drastically of a 10mm drop in width. I have found the tyres on this website: http://www.camskill....5_50R15_75H_TL_ They appear to be very cheap which makes me want to go for them. They also sell a 165/55: http://www.camskill....5_55R15_75V_TL_ Which might look a bit better. What is everyone else running?

Definitely.

What tyres are you going to fit for this staggered fitment. I have 195/45/15 on the 8's and 165/50/15 on the 7's and it doesn't look right really. I am tempted to go for 175/50 or 165/55 on the 7's because the 195/45 looks alright on the 8's

I like the 1 series bmw hatches. I'd probably go for a 120d coz they're pretty torquey. They look good with lows aswell.

Then recalibrate the TB to the EGR valve. I had reduced flow so i stripped everything intake manifold included and cleaned everything and mine went to excessive then I just re-calibrated the throttle body and everything was all good.

How much for the indicator trim mate?

I changes it 10-15k miles ago

Hello, it won't be long now until I have finished putting my engine back together in the process I have cleaned my EGR, intake manifold and Throttle Body out. Last time I cleaned my intake out it idled very poorly so I was wondering if any one could please let me use their Vag-Com to re-adapt my throttle body. IF somebody could I would appreciate it an awful lot. Cheers Luke.

You snapped a valve? Yeah I thing the valves took the brunt of it. There is some scuffing on the pistons but it should be fine there is no major denting and they respond perfectly when I turn the crank which suggests no play. I am going to put it all back together tomorrow and give it a whirl I need to find someone near me with vag-com as I have cleaned all my intake,egr and throttle body. Also The pipe that goes from what I believe is the fuel pressure regulator to the bottom of the intake manifold has come off at the intake manifold, I was getting some faults before all this happened and I think this is the cause. So hopefully all will be well. I have take a few pictures that I will have to upload.

Valve seals and/or piston rings?

Not really because I am borrowing my Uncles garage and it's not fair to keep his cars out the garage. My engine block is still completely inside the car, gearbox attached, front end still on and everything, I would prefer to jam the whole engine in but my Uncle won't be to pleased if I take up his garage for much longer.

Stripped the engine down to the block today and all the valves are bent (every single one). Luckily I have managed to get a new engine so I am going to swap over the top end over as I have little time until the term starts. Then when I get time I am going to recondition the old head with new valves etc. and re-condition the bottom end of my new (second hand) engine then swap it when my current engine goes crappy. Luckily it has only scratched the tops of my pistons I was expecting to see some holes but fortunately not.

Ok so I set about stripping the belts off and I couldn't believe what had happened. The bolt that holds the tensioner for the main belt to the block has completely sheared off leaving half an inch behind. Like a fool I didn't use genuine parts, I used Gates which I thought would be fine as they are a reputable company. All of it is made in China which should have been enough to never of put them on in the first place. Here are the pictures. So I went and bought another kit praying that the engine wasn't ruined. I put it on today and timed it all up. I turned the key and it just span at the speed of the starter motor, didn't fire up, didn't even sound like it was trying to fire up. So I don't know what to do. I am so stuck, I have no money and I am going back to Uni in a week and I need my car to commute to University and work without it I am screwed. I was wondering if there was a safety element built in to the engine? if the belt snaps something pulls the valves out the way. I know on high end and newer engine there is some fail safe but I don't know if the Lupo has one and there is something I need to do get the engine working? I think to be honest I am just wishfully thinking. If any one has any suggestions at all I am all ears but I think I will probably be on the look out for a new engine. Life is **** sometimes.

I was driving down the road today around 50 mph coming up to a junction. I started to slow down and selected 3rd gear heard a high pitch grinding noise but was difficult to distinguish as I had music playing. I assumed the car was struggling to engage the gear so I put it in to neutral and tried again. Then I noticed the car had cut-out. I pulled over turned down the music and tried to start the engine. All I could hear was the battery operating the starter motor well this was my best guess anyway. After turning the key a few times and listening to the noise I was sure that the starter motor was not engaging correctly with the gearbox and the engine just wasn't turning over. So I decided to give it a bump start. So I got it rolling selected 2nd gear and disengaged the clutch all I got was a whine from the gear box almost as if the the input shaft from the gear box to the engine had snapped or my engine literally had no compression what so ever. At this point I thought better get a tow home. When I got home it hit me I thought check the timing belt so I popped the plastic cover off to see if it had snapped. The belt was in tact BUT extremely loose so I think this is where my problem is. What do you think I should do? My thoughts are to re time the engine up and see if it will run although I am not holding out much hope and at best I will have probably bent my valves up. What is confusing me though is that it seems the belt was tight enough to maybe turn the cam pulley but I can't say anything for sure. One thing I can say is that I officially dislike motoring and wish I could magic it all away! If you feel sorry for me throughout reading this story please don't hesitate to give me a million pounds. Thank you, Luke.

I was driving down the road today around 50 mph coming up to a junction. I started to slow down and selected 3rd gear heard a high pitch grinding noise but was difficult to distinguish as I had music playing. I assumed the car was struggling to engage the gear so I put it in to neutral and tried again. Then I noticed the car had cut-out. I pulled over turned down the music and tried to start the engine. All I could hear was the battery operating the starter motor well this was my best guess anyway. After turning the key a few times and listening to the noise I was sure that the starter motor was not engaging correctly with the gearbox and the engine just wasn't turning over. So I decided to give it a bump start. So I got it rolling selected 2nd gear and disengaged the clutch all I got was a whine from the gear box almost as if the the input shaft from the gear box to the engine had snapped or my engine literally had no compression what so ever. At this point I thought better get a tow home. When I got home it hit me I thought check the timing belt so I popped the plastic cover off to see if it had snapped. The belt was in tact BUT extremely loose so I think this is where my problem is. What do you think I should do? My thoughts are to re time the engine up and see if it will run although I am not holding out much hope and at best I will have probably bent my valves up. What is confusing me though is that it seems the belt was tight enough to maybe turn the cam pulley but I can't say anything for sure. One thing I can say is that I officially dislike motoring and wish I could magic it all away! If you feel sorry for me throughout reading this story please don't hesitate to give me a million pounds. Thank you, Luke.

It will start when the battery is charged it just runs flat overnight.

I have an after market microscan alarm system fitted. But that has been on it since I have bought the car and the battery has been fine for nearly two years now. So I don't think it is that causing the problem. I connected a multimeter in series and when I lock the car the initial draw is around 0.24A after around 15 seconds it drops to about 0.09A. Is this a normal draw or is something not right?

To make a properly size ported box for this you'd need a transit van though haha. Should have gone sealed