Derv

I require a Lupo or Polo cable gear shift linkage. I need the 6N0 711 017 B type, which looks like this: not the 6N0 711 061 A type. Please PM me if you can help. Thanks.

You could try spraying some soapy water on the wheels and tyres, then check for bubbles.

Don't forget the FSI. The Lupos with the lightweight shells are 6E.

Clear the code and see if it comes back. It may be an old fault.

Many years ago I had some new tyres fitted to a car. Later that day I was overtaking a car, when the steering wheel shock like crazy, and it felt just like a wheel was loose. I pulled over to see what the problem was, and a wheel was severely cambered in. When I checked I noticed 2 wheel bolts missing. I got the wheel brace out and removed a wheel bolt from another hub, only it wouldn't fit the loose wheel, as the two missing bolts were actually snapped off. I had to carefully drive 100 miles home, stopping every 5 miles to tighten the remaining 2 bolts retaining the wheel. Then I had to remove the wheel bearing housing and hub, get a friend to weld nuts on the protruding snapped wheel bolts, to then remove them. I have never taken a car to a tyre fitter since.

Check your heater blower inlet and pollen filter if you have one. Mine was swamped, as the drain under the scuttle panel was blocked, so as soon as I switched the AC off the screen misted up. I siphoned out the heater inlet, dried out the filter, and I've no more misting since.

Blocked drains are pretty common at this time of year. I have just had to clear the drain next to the pollen filter on the Lupo, as it was blocked by pine needles. Get a hose pipe and a pipe cleaner on to it.

Generic OBDII readers are only concerned with emission related faults. You need VCDS or something that can also read the other codes. Get yourself a lead and go here >>> VCDS.

VCDS x64 is working fine here. OBDII is only required to do engine codes. That is why you cannot read the airbag fault.

This.

You need to use something better than the OBDII reader to access the airbag circuit, something like VCDS. Those OBDII codes are Lambda and MAP sensor related. Another thread with a related title may get you more help here.

If the airbag light is staying on, then there should be a code stored. Those codes you have are engine fault codes, so you need to check the airbag circuit.

For parts, just take duct tape, cable ties and a credit card. That will usually solve ~99.1415926535897932384626433832795028841971693993% of problems. If you want to be sure your gearbox holds up, then take a spare and all the tools needed to change it. But seriously, you cannot plan for failures, unless you have a known issue, in which case you should sort it before you go. If you are making stops on the way, then it will be just a normal few thousand miles in the Lupo's life. Just carry on and drive as normal. If you have to stop for fuel in Germany, you may have to explain that you are not Polish, your credit card is not Polish, and that you can afford to pay for your fuel, before they will activate the pump for you. BTDT many times.

Remember the usual kit, warning triangle, spare wheel, mini air compressor, tool kit, tow rope, first aid kit, high-visibility vests, breathalysers for France, GB sticker, headlight beam deflectors, and obviously your driving license, V5 and insurance certificate. I also have ADAC breakdown cover, which has proved to be useful over the years, even if it has been just to get me recovered to a hotel where I can fix the car myself. In November don't forget winter tyres and snow chains, even though I have been to ski resorts in the winter, I have never needed to use snow chains, but many countries require you to carry them. A can of spare fuel can be useful too, as service stations can be few and far between at times. Just make sure the Lupo in in good working order, and any upcoming servicing is done. How far is to where you are going in Poland? Would you normally drive that sort of distance around the UK without worrying things like the gearbox? I am pretty sure the Lupo cannot tell if you are driving 3k miles around the UK, or 3k miles around Europe. I have travelled to many places in Europe in the Lupo, not quite into Poland, but I have been as far as Norway and Hungary in it. On each of those trips I ended up with a worn wheel bearing, as if they objected to 2 days of constant driving. Of course they lasted the trips, but they made a lot of noise along the way. The only other issue I had was the passenger wiper linkage failing in a Swedish thunderstorm. As around home, you never know what odd faults may occur. I always take a basic tool kit with me, including duct tape and cable ties.

Yes, of course it's legal. As for the mixture, it depends on the temperatures. Even 50:50 can be too much veg oil when it's very cold, so you may need to use more diesel, such as 75:25. Likewise in the summer you may still need some diesel in the mixture to get the engine going. My brother has had some nervous moments with his 1Z engine, when the weather has turned cold, and he's had too much veg oil in the tank. Depending on the quality of veg oil you use, you may need to change the filter more often. I have a friend that just stuck chip shop oil unfiltered straight in the tank, and let the fuel filter do all the work. I have been told not to bother with Crisp 'n Dry, as it's not worth the extra expense. Also if you get desperate for fuel, G00 4000 will work, but it will create a lot of smoke.

For the SDI? I don't know. Maybe you could find out. For the 3L I don't have the data on me, but I believe you can empty a full tank in between 23 and 43 hours, it depends on factors like temperatures. Obviously you could stick a brick on the throttle to bring the time down, or sit it the car for hours. It depends how important it is to you to achieve the ultimate low mpg is, and how much time and money you have to waste.

Getting a low score for mpg is easy, just start your car up and leave it idling until your fuel runs out, and you'll get 0mpg. On track I have managed to get the Lupo as low as 36mpg, which is still a consistent four times better than anything else I drive, which is generally echoed on the road.

I am pretty sure that my brother recently got some veg oil for around 70p/litre delivered. He stocks up when he finds a deal. Even running it at 50:50 that would make for pretty cheap motoring in an SDI.

That is good going in an SDI. Unlike the PD TDIs the SDI can be run on very cheap fuel too, which gives it the potential to be cheaper run than a 3L. As long as you can handle the boredom of driving a NA DERV

I find the easiest options for buying parts are either to phone up the local Volkswagen dealer, order and collect, or phone up a local TPS and get them delivered. The only issue I have found is having to wait a couple of weeks sometimes, because parts are on back order. But this is the same for any old VAG car. Luckily so far I have no experience with buying second hand 3L parts, as VAG have always had everything I have needed. I have only needed the help of Sebastian Funk at Audi Tradition once, for sourcing a pair of new rear dampers. I find the easiest options for buying parts are either to phone up the local Volkswagen dealer, order and collect, or phone up a local TPS and get them delivered. The only issue I have found is having to wait a couple of weeks sometimes, because parts are on back order. But this is the same for any old VAG car. Luckily so far I have no experience with buying second hand 3L parts, as VAG have always had everything I have needed. I have only needed the help of Sebastian Funk at Audi Tradition once, for sourcing a pair of new rear dampers.

I came across a photo of the broken selector fork, so I thought I would post it here, in case anyone was still interested.

6E0 801 027A They are 5Jx14 ET40 and around 5.5kg IIRC. I am not sure if they would be suitable for the GTI, but my point was sometimes things are cheaper from VAG than you would think. I don't have ETKA on me now, so I don't know what winter options are available specific to the GTI. Around the same time I bought the 3L winter steels I had to buy a new BBS wheel to replace a bent one, it cost more than the 2 sets of Lupo wheels.

I have 2 sets of original winter option steels that bought new from Volkswagen. They were only ~£35 each. I use one set for winter, the other for spring/autumn. I don't have my own tyre fitting equipment, so being able to swap wheels with the changing weather is the best option for me.

Codes?

VCDS will do everything you need for the 3L and more. I'm not sure 3L ownership is even possible without it. Vag-Scope which is part of the VCDS package can be very useful too. I had an intermittent ABS fault, which I would never have found without it. I had to plot the wheel speeds for 30 minutes, before a split second drop-out appeared on the graph. There is the OBDII function too, so you can read and clear engine fault codes on pretty much any modern car. I sometimes use VCDS on the Porsche when I can be bothered to dig out the Durametric lead. Be warned though, as everyone in your area with a Volkswagen, Audi, Seat or Skoda will become your new best friends.