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Derv

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Everything posted by Derv

  1. Derv

    1.4 TDI 150BHP?

    Yeah, sorry for my use of metric to confuse you. Ooh, an LSD? I was sizing up a spare helical diff with my spare 085, wondering if I can squeeze it in there somehow. It looks close. Do you know what type of diff you have? I also wonder the effects it may have on fuel economy.
  2. Derv

    1.4 TDI 150BHP?

    I deleted my EGR mainly to save weight and to free up space. I was thinking 250Nm would be a reasonable limit for the gearbox, so that would tally with yours, Sausage. If the engine and turbo could hold 250Nm at 4k rpm then that makes 140bhp, and even 150bhp at 4.3, which is stock 1.8T territory, plenty enough. What clutch are people using? Or does the stock clutch hold okay? I did have some clutch slip under boost, but the cable turned out to be a little tight.
  3. Derv

    1.4 TDI 150BHP?

    EGR delete is a good way of starting with remapping, as you can't really damage anything by getting it wrong. How much torque are you running Mr Sausage? TDIs are all about the torque. I've got a 1749 to go on at some point, but mapping the ARL injectors is something I'm still getting my head around. The clutch and gearbox are going to be the limiting factor, but it may be a case of limiting torque in the midrange, then letting it hold to make power higher up.
  4. Great! At least it's not a heavy gearbox. My toughest was fitting my 6 speed quattro gearbox on my own, weighing in at 78kg.
  5. It looks like putting some fresh oil in it did a good job of cleaning up inside, so it wasn't a waste. I can't remember exactly where all of the gearbox mounting bolts are, but there are a couple of locating dowels, and obviously the input shaft needs wiggling out of the clutch friction plate.
  6. That actually looks a lot cleaner than mine did when I first looked inside. Mine also had chucks in the oil and bits of metal covering everything, but it seemed to be just bearing damage, just really bad bearing damage. I've got 40 litres of tractor diff oil in the workshop, so I may bung some of that in to start with. I am also thinking since thicker oil could be good, as I have had other cars that don't shift well when cold, so I am well used to double declutching for a few miles before the oil warms up. I think it could be fairly easy to overfill the gearbox slightly through the speedo drive hole, once the gearbox is back in place.
  7. I've had one gearbox fail at 75k and one at 80k miles, the 3L 'box had a broken selector fork, but was still badly worn inside. Something is clearly designed poorly, so I wouldn't worry too much about messing around with oil grades and quantities.
  8. You can buy a kit with all new bearings and seals for about £90. I managed to catch a gearbox early once and just changed the bearings around the diff, including the end of the output shaft, but it didn't require a total strip down. If you open up the main case you can get to them without taking the shift mechanism and main shafts out. The first thing to do is undo the 3 9mm bolts that hold the 5th gear cover on, and you can check the output shaft play at that end. Mine had 0.6mm, so I knew I had to go in deeper.
  9. I can't access Elsa at the moment, but this should get you started. http://workshop-manuals.com/volkswagen/polo-mk3/power_transmission/5-speed_manual_gearbox_085/gearbox_mechanicsoperation_constructiondiff./dismantling_and_assembling_gearbox/dismantling_and_assembling_sequence/
  10. I hardly ever use a torque wrench. I prefer to feel when it's tight. Unless it's something like head bolts or conrod bolts.
  11. The steering wheel fits on a splined shaft, so just point the wheels straight, put the steering wheel straight and tighten up the bolt. If the alignment is in any doubt then you can leave the nut loose, roll forwards and backwards to check the steering wheel is straight, then tighten it.
  12. I used to have AC in one of my TDIs. The wiring would probably be the trickiest bit to integrate, but not too difficult while the dashboard is out.
  13. I'm tempted to take a look now. The trouble is I know someone with an A1 quattro, so no ordinary A1 is going to seem quick.
  14. Have you driven an A1? I haven't yet, but I generally prefer the feel of older cars, although it depends on what you are in to. An A1 is almost certainly going to depreciate more than a GTI, if that's a concern.
  15. Things won't get better, only worse. The earlier you can catch it the better. I have deliberately left gearbox issues in the name of science, but it's not fun when they drop their guts all over the road.
  16. Luckily all of the gears look fine. But the output shaft bearing at the diff end was by far the worst, as sausage says. I managed to eat 5th gear in my 3L, and that was painful. £560 for both gears, then all the bearings had to be replaced. I don't want to do that again. I'm thinking of overfilling the box with oil. It should be easy enough to pour some extra down the speed sensor drive hole. This is my 3rd Lupo, and 3rd gearbox rebuild.
  17. I started off by taking the 5th gear casing off and having a look inside. I also found a load of play in the shafts, which is why I went further inside and split the main casing. I then found loads of bearing damage, so stripped the whole thing.
  18. I've had a similar issue, with a gearbox full of shrapnel. I've given it a really good clean while apart, but I think I'm still going to run it without load, filled with diesel first, with a neodymium magnet on the plug. Then I will check the oil after 100 miles or so.
  19. Just from looking at the discs they look the same size as the 3L, which I think it's 239x15mm. But I haven't actually measured them tbh. The extra weight is really noticeable on the 1.4, and even with new pads the brakes don't inspire much confidence. If you mean G60 as in the 2 pot Girlings fitted to the likes of the Audi S2, then I have a refurbished pair of those gathering dust, so that would be a cheap upgrade. I have some 5.5kg 15" wheels, but it's not a great winter option.
  20. I've done many brake upgrades in the past, and figured it would be simple enough on the Lupo. Only I've found that the calliper carriers are cast as part of the wheel bearing housing. I guess I need items from a different model, but which ones? Sport? GTI? Polo? My laptop is broken so I can't look at ETKA at the moment, but I'm sure some of you know what to do, and what the tried and tested method is. I did a quick search, but didn't come up with much. I'm not after anything too crazy, as the brakes need to fit under 14s really, unless I use 15s all year round. But I'm not one for just going for spectacularly massive brakes, and adding a load of unsprung rotational mass. Although having brakes that work well are definitely required.
  21. The electro-mechanical power steering includes a worm gear, and they cannot be driven backwards. For me the lack of PAS is a great feature of the 3L. I'm already looking at deleting it on my other Lupo. You just have to adopt the old way of steering, and accept that it will be hard when not moving. You only need to get to car rolling slightly, and it becomes easy enough. In my experience electro-mechanical PAS feels even worse than hydraulic.
  22. I can easily believe it. I managed 2.4 on a long trip in a completely standard AC equipped 3L, with winter tyres, but that wasn't easy.
  23. The 3L doesn't really need PAS, and it will just use more fuel. Electro-mechanical power steering would draw too much power when stopped, like if you wiggled the steering. The rear heated screen also turns off when the engine is stopped, and on some models the headlights. I only discovered these things when I removed my gearbox ECU.
  24. 121mpg is my best so far. But I have made some improvements since, yet to be fully tested.
  25. I am yet to try this on mine. With 39 litres in it, I should be able to crack 1000 miles on a tank.
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