veedub1955

Hi does anyone know the thread sizes of the lambda sensor, I am about to purchase a manifold without the mounting in it, you can buy the bosses off ebay but all you need to do is get a nut of the correct size and weld it on, I doubt this will cost £6 + lol, but Im not 100% sure of the size, cheers

Bell mouth makes a massive difference to standard this has to be done if you havnt already done it, and as niche points out definately put the breather back into the induction somehow it stinks big time

So did anyone fit one yet? On the Regal site it only lists Mk1,2,3 and not the lupe these look pretty universal though?

Lupo D Nessun problema dude Well thought out Niche fits perfectly, I may do the same with the breather as Ive noticed more petrol fumes than before with it, maybe coincidence

About £30 - £35 if I could get a few people interested, I know it sounds a lot but I machined it out of solid billet ali, the back end is 70mm for the hose but I can do this any size

*** Update *** Now made a bell mouth at work out of billet ali and fitted see pics below, ill report on how it performs I got a 1mtr 70mm hose off ebay for £16 and fits perfectly I can make some more of these if wanted if I can get 5 orders it will be worth it

Lol I didnt know there was three of you

retronick Do you have a silver RS beetle and you brother works in assembly used to have a Type 3 Varient? If so I used to be in alltypes, had a mint orange GT beetle with 2litre engine and a knarly blue 71 with stinger and supercharged 1500 GTI T yeah I know deeside college used to work up the road in queensferry next to the ice rink you from round there? Nath what you getting next?

Looks good, is the front badge the same as a MK4 golf?

Yeah i do, whats your ride so I can look out for you Still not seen yours yet Nath whens the next meet? Roof chopped Lupo anyone got a spare roof lying around

Hi all im Nick from North Wales heres some pics of my rides and current ongoing project Lupo 1.4S 16V bought two weeks ago 37K miles now on coilovers and running BMC induction, soon to have exhaust and manifold, remap and 20 shots of nitrous lol 1964 Volksrod (Beetle hotrod) ALL BUILT NOT BOUGHT! Its had a 6 1/2 roof chop and im currently finishing off a 4 1/2 inch channel which very basically is chopping 4 1/2 inches from around the bottom of the car, 1 inch from the floorpans and 3 1/2 inches by removing the heater channels (or sills on modern cars) and replacing with 8mm thick flat steel then modifying the front bulkhead and raising the boot floor, the bootfloor is also raised a further 3 inches so I can mount the gearbox 3 inches higher, thus lowering it 3 inches naturally then im going to slam the rear a further 5 inches. The front suspension is going to be classic hotrod Ford 1930 iBeam drilled to save weight and dropped a further 3 inches, the mounting lowers the front 4 inches then the spindles im machining will lower it a further 2 1/2 inches, so imagine the front bonnet of a beetle with the lower front panel removed, the bonnet will sit 1 inch from the floor but all the suspension will be pretty much riding like normal. The roof will be about belly button height so nice and low! Ive also tubbed the rear arches so i can fit massive rubber out back classic wide crossplies, while having plenty of clearence. The engine is going to be a beetle engine but 2.3 litre with a supercharger mounted on top, the scoop will sit just above roof height at the back so should look and sound hard as nails. Im aiming for 11 sec 1/4 miles with it, my last beetle ran a 10.1 sec 1/4 with turbo and nitrous (the lupe will be getting a dose of the old laughing gas when i get rount to it lol) I was awarded 'Crazy lovely person of the month' on the US volksrods site www.volksrods.com where they pick the best project, im the first and only one in the UK to gain this award, well chuffed And this is what roughly it will look like But at a bit higher than this height

Now push the silicon hose onto the reducer, it dosent need a jubilee clip (Put the big blue hose onto the black plastic ring that makes the hose fit the accelerator body) a ) cause only two are supplied and (Only 2 big round clips are in the kit) Solo 2 grandi clip sono tornata nel kit B ) you might overtighten the clip and break the reducer, it is a real tight fit and dosent leak. (If you use a big round clip it may break the plastic reducer) Se si utilizza una grande rotonda clip può rompere il riduttore di plastica NOW FOR THE MOST IMPORTANT BIT CHECK THE THROTTLE CABLE CAM DOSENT FOUL or you will either not gain full throttle or the throttle could stick open and have disasterous results YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED. So adjust the height accordingly (Make sure the bottom of the big blue hose does not touch the round bit where the accelerator cable goes round. It will stop the accelerator opening or make it stay open) Assicurarsi che il fondo del tubo Big Blue non tocca il turno bit in cui l'acceleratore cavo va round. Si fermerà l'acceleratore di apertura o di renderlo rimangono aperti Speranza che questo aiuti Lupo Milano

Nice one mate What exhaust system are you running

Goto your local Seat dealer the part number is 1ML 805 903 for £19.50 including vat

Been to VW today to get pedal box, £33 including 2 x sheer bolts this is waht it looks like:- Ill post a how to when its fitted, looks a bit tight up there!

Is the pedal box No 15 on this drawing? Got me paranoid now, my clutch pedal clicks a little bit, but gearchange is good (if a little vague) and pedal height is OK. I might change just for the sake of it, its only done 37K and might not be showing any symtoms. Ill do a how-to thread if I change it, ill keep u posted if it is no 15 it will be no major shakes to change how can vdub prices be so high to change!!!

Cheers guys The sound is really good in first and second when you are accelerating then it quitens down nicely, big improvement in sound. Dont expect hugh differences in performance as you only going to get them with other modifications as well although there is a noticable small improvement. I going for the bolt on mods at first and then the whole package should give noticable gains. Doing the Ram air into the intake should make some improvement as well Ill post a guide when I get chance to go on the lathe at work and make a bell mouth for behind the front grill. Also putting coilovers on this weekend and will do the same how to guide on that as well

Hi all here's a step by step guide on how to install a BMC to my 1.4S. I bought the kit from Kam Racing who's sales service is excellent, here is a link to the club discount section Kam Racing Club Lupo discount As you can see in pic number 1 this is what you get with the kit, it includes the silicon hose and breather with it. The kits not exactly a bolt on affair so Ive decided to do this how to Tools needed:- Posidrive screwdriver 10mm Socket or spanner 5mm allen key T25 torx driver or socket Stanley Knife Hacksaw Optional: File/Grinder 7mm socket or spanner (N.B if anyone wants the stickers PM me for my address and send us an SAE 1st come first served ) Whats included in the kit Basic layout of origonal air box First undo the existing cool air inlet pipe, heres the first screw And here's the next, also pull off the oil breather pipe which the new supplied breather is going to be installed on later Now undo the 4 5mm allen key bolts that hold the rocker plastic cover on and remove Now undo the 1st of the two screws that hold the air box on with your T25 torx, if you havnt got one of these then a well fitting flat head screwdriver should undo this with a bit of care. Better pic 2 follow Now undo the seven posidrive screw that hold the top of the air box on locations with screws in as below Now undo the second torx screw that holds the air box on and remove airbox, this is also held on by a rubber grommet and might be a bit tight to remove Now you have to install the reducer ring on the throttle body, here is the throttle body width The smallest reducer supplied is a bit bigger than the throttle body and you might think it wont fit but with a bit of care tightening it will, without any air leaks Take care with the supplied jubilee clip that it dosent foul the opening of the throttle cable when screwing on The silicon hose is bigger than you need and you will have to trim down. Mockup the position of the induction box and mark where you want to cut it. I always put the jubilee clip on before cutting and either use it as a guide, or use it to mark a ring right round the hose so you get a neat cut. I tried using a hacksaw at first to cut but it didnt give a clean cut and had loads of swalf that can get in your throttle body, so I used a sharp stanley knife and this gave it a clean neat edge. BE CAREFUL Now mockup hose for hight of induction box, mark and cut as above Now push the silicon hose onto the reducer, it dosent need a jubilee clip a ) cause only two are supplied and B ) you might overtighten the clip and break the reducer, it is a real tight fit and dosent leak. NOW FOR THE MOST IMPORTANT BIT CHECK THE THROTTLE CABLE CAM DOSENT FOUL or you will either not gain full throttle or the throttle could stick open and have disasterous results YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED. So adjust the height accordingly Now it is time to measure the mounting brace bar for length, mockup the mounting ring and find a suitable mounting point as below, the cam cover screw has plenty of thread on it, so is perfect Now cut to length with you hacksaw, Ive rounded the edges off to save sharp edges, and frayed tempers plus its a neater job Now install mounting bar and tighten the supplied 10mm nut and bolt to the ring, and undo the 5mm allen bolt of the cam cover, install and tighten NB THE INDUCTION BOX IS THE WRONG WAY ROUND IN THIS SHOT, CHECK ON THE ENDS OF THE INDUCTION BOX AND IT WILL TELL YOU THE RIGHT WAY ROUND (DOH at least i realised before EVERYTHING was put back lol) Now to instal the flip#*$n supplied breather, it is a tight fit and WILL pop off a few times but you will get there eventually I cable tied round the fuel rail but didnt tighen the tie too much so as to not crush the breather pipe or rail Now cut to lenth the induction pipe and pop on, you dont need jubilee clips here as not enough are supplied but im going to get some and add a a later date Now replace the rocker cover plastic cover and go and test On the next installment im making a aluminum bell that will mount onto the plastic cover next to the radiator and have bought a 1mtr lenth of 70mm pipe from eBay so as to get better flow and colder air into it, watch this space. Also when I next get some spare cash Ill get a Raceland manifold from KAM racing and do a full install how to on this. Thanks for looking

Alright Lee, get before the 20th so we can cruize down to Mikes together lol Oh and get a pic of the lupe and the rod together to show how low the rod is

Its listed as a TDI exhaust so if that fits your 1.0 Tigz would it fit my 1.4 S and where did you mount the centre hanger to?

Love these rims but dont know the make what are they?

LOL no thats Will, do you need to get in contact with him PM me you address if u do?? I live in Denbigh North Wales, anyone near me??

Silver you are a star cheers mate Mitch yes its my volksrod in progress 6 inch chop 4 " channel tubbed rear arches for serious rubberage, Ford 30's iBeam lowered front end

Cheers Silver, Ill check to see if I can get the spigots seperatly, altogh the spigots only make fitting easier dont they?

Hi all, could you give me some advice please, ive been offered 7x15, 4x100, et 38 Ronal Turbo mint rims of this Ronal Turbo would they fit OK, Im lowered by 40mm also, thanks alot