RAB

A bit grumpy? How do you know? What annoys me is people writing about things that they clearly know nothing about! That doesn't necessarily include yourself! I always use both locking tools and then re-check if they still fit after fitting the belt. So checking with VCDS shouldn't be necessary. If it showed that it was wrong, how would you correct it anyway? If you do it without locking tools, it's going to be incorrect anyway and VCDS will only prove it. iwcham wants to fit power steering, not remove it, but he thinks it's electro-hydraulic. RAB

Lupo 3L P/S is electric, not hydraulic. You'll need a different ECU as well. RAB

Evidence? How many 3Ls are there in the UK? Many? Why would you want to do it anyway? Just buy a 1.4Tdi - there's more of them for a start. RAB

Correct! Far easier to repair as is. You have to be pro-active as far as maintenance goes for 3L's. If you are, they are very reliable. All three of our cars have their original gear actuators and hydraulic stations; the original clutch actuators were consumable but you can now convert them to a Hall sensor. RAB

No, the inner edges wear because the front wheels are not parallel when the car is in motion. The inner edge rubs against itself, gets warmer and the rubber gets softer, resulting in wear. You can check this yourself by touching the inner edges after driving. The only way I have found for correcting this is with the Trakrite. Take the car to a garage with fancy laser tracking and they will get it wrong because the VW data is over-pessimistic regarding the slop in their steering mechanisms. My front tyres have been on the car for four years - no sign of wear on the inner edge. RAB

You're not serious, are you? The camber is essentially non-adjustable, the tolerances are to cover manufacturing variance. Do you think that a minute change of camber would make any difference to tyre wear? Only if you're running solid rubber tyres! I had a problem with both our 3Ls wearing tyres on the inner edge. Cured by reducing toe-out and checking for the front wheels running parallel with Gunson's Trakrite. Never had a problem since. If you set the tracking statically, you are relying on VW data which seems to be over-pessimistic. RAB

For what reason? They are linked for a reason. So there would be problems converting to manual. With a 3L transmission, you have to be pro-active, otherwise expensive problems appear. Being pro-active, most problems are simply avoided. RAB

The clutch position is given by the potentiometer. If the signal is noisy then starting in STOP/PARK may be inhibited. However, starting in NEUTRAL should work before the potentiometer degrades too much. A German member of the A2-freunde forum converts original actuators to one with a Hall sensor - cheaper than buying new and should last indefinitely. I have had two converted. A basic setting/recalibration should be done every 30.000km. There's very little clutch wear as slipping the clutch is not possible. A 3L clutch may last 300,000km. You can bump start if you can get it in gear but if the actuator is failing, there's little point. 1.2Tdi was only used in the Lupo 3L and A2 1.2Tdi. There was no Arosa although a prototype may have been built. RAB

You may need a new accumulator - they contain nitrogen which leaks away with time. Another likely cause is a worn potentiometer on the clutch actuator - if the clutch position is not clear, starting will be inhibited. RAB

Make sure the drain holes are clear on either side of where the ECU is located. Blocked drain holes will be the only reason that the ECU has been waterlogged. RAB

If you have central locking, the CCU is quite possibly the problem. A relatively common problem with Audi A2's. RAB

Quite possibly it is the CCU that is the problem. A quite common fault with Audi A2's. RAB

Front hubs are different on a 3L, so not an option. Just get the right discs, same as 1L Lupo. Plenty of choice but don't buy the cheapest. False economy. RAB

The early 3L tailgate had a magnesium frame with an aluminium skin. VW replaced it with a steel one because they wanted more weight over the rear wheels. That's why the battery was moved to the rear. Before this modification, the rear bumper had two lead weights. Even efterwards, the bumper still had one lead weight! VW's story is that they did this because the early tailgates were corroding. We have two of these tailgates and after twenty and eighteen years, neither is showing any sign of corrosion. RAB

Nothing to do with the accumulator. The green light goes out when the foot brake is pressed. Or in his case, should. RAB

When you start the car with the lever in S, you need your foot on the brake as this opens the clutch. If putting your foot on the brake doesn't change the status of the green light, you have a faulty brake switch. This will be confirmed by being able to start the car in N. RAB

They are not a press fit. They are part of the arm. RAB

Again, can you manually move the turbo VNT mechanism? Wheel bearings OK? RAB

Have you scanned it with VCDS? Can you manually move the turbo VNT mechanism? Wheel bearings OK? Coolant temperature sensor OK? RAB

When was the air filter last changed? Can you manually move the VNT mechanism? RAB

Get it scanned with VCDS. When was the fuel filter last changed? If you don't know, change it. A problem with the accumulator would disable the accelerator. RAB

I presume that he is trying to press out the drive shaft against the bearing assembly. It will be impossible to remove the bearing assembly with the puller because there will be nothing to use the lead screw of the puller once the drive shaft is removed. You can only do this with the right tools. RAB

No, as usual the 3L is different. Smaller OD bearing than any other Lupo. Otherwise no difference, just smaller to save weight. Unless installed correctly, the ABS won't function. With the correct tools, this job can be easily done without removing the hub. A gear puller will never work because you are just pushing against the drive shaft; either the shaft or the bearing (probably the former) will eventually move, leaving the second still in place! RAB

With right tool (above), the drive shaft will be removed easily. To change the bearing, you need a special puller kit which is for use with the 3L and Audi A2 1.2Tdi only. Any other method, including a press, will damage the new bearing. Here: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/A-H162-16pcs-Front-Wheel-Bearing-Tool-62-mm-Audi-A2-VW-Lupo-1-2-TDI-Tools-UK-NEW/322445943891?epid=1673510989&hash=item4b1346a453:g:IKAAAOSw32lYwBlH RAB

Are you using the appropriate tool? There's a tool that bolts to the wheel flange: https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/cht240-universal-hub-puller/ You are using something that may not exert the full force in the right direction. Don't use a sledge hammer! RAB