RAB
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Posts posted by RAB
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The potentiometer on your clutch actuator is failing. Best option would be to remove the electrical part of the actuator and send it to Malmank on the German forum (a2-freun.de). He will replace the potentiometer with a Hall Effect sensor, which is a non-wearing part and cheaper than a new actuator. English is OK, email him first. 00262 is indicative that solenoid 3 (N90) is faulty. That's probably one of the solenoids on the gearbox actuator. Once you've made these repairs, do a full scan with VCDS and post it on here.
RAB
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To anyone wondering, LeatherTan's Lupo 3L is my old one! He knows that now! I sold it on to a VW/Audi specialist but they sold it on to someone else because they could not cure a smokey exhaust. The new owner then complained to me that fuel was diluting the engine oil. He then sold it to LT. LT or his mechanic found the problem: the connection to the injector loom had rubbed up against something and rubbed away all the insulation, even though this connection is covered by conduit! Well done LT and his mechanic.
RAB
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On 5/6/2023 at 1:59 PM, mk2 said:
Hey Hey! You do still exist... 👍🏻😀
@danno hasn't been on here either for ages either. Mind you, makes sense as he's now Lupoless. Even grumpy@RAB has got rid of his 3L. So many people dumping their Lupos (and Rosas).
So what inspired you to check out all the old wierdos on here (I only speak for myself!)?
Me thinks that once there's no toddler seat in car, you'll be searching for another Loop... Mmmm?
Still got one! Not for much longer though as it will be up for sale soon.
RAB
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On better forums you get an email when your attention is required!
RAB
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RTFM 12 is usually caused by not adjusting the actuator as advised, during the basic setting. Perhaps that's what you found?
RAB
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On 11/5/2022 at 6:16 PM, mk2 said:
@RAB, can the high pressure pump (the one on the end of the camshaft) suck all the way from the tank, through the filter, if the lift pump isn't running? All 1.4 tdi lupos have the electrical lift pump. Don't the 1.2 always have both?
And there's that fuel return circuit with the cooling fins under the driver's seat, that emits steam if you drive through a tiny puddle!
Electric lift pumps were only fitted to early Audi A2 TDis, according to 7zap. Our 1999 Lupo 3L doesn't have one for sure. So the tandem pump is the lift pump, not the high pressure pump. The high pressure pump is the injector itself.
RAB
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On 11/4/2022 at 7:51 AM, mk2 said:
Other things to check are stuck EGR valve or fuel supply from lift pump (power or pump issues). In a nutshell, if the engine gets no fuel it dies. But since the injectors and fuel circuit are run by system electrical power, if the 12V supply fails the injectors or lift pump could stop- killing the engine.
Come on, come on! The tandem pump is mechanical, mounted on the end of the camshaft. Early TDis also had an electrical lift pump as well as a tandem pump.
RAB
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Lupo 3L's in 2000 didn't have the option of power steering. It didn't appear as an option until 2002 or 2003. So what do you have?
RAB
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On 7/1/2022 at 2:13 PM, LeatherTan said:
Ok, well the mechanic will be able to weigh up this guidance but hopefully some of the diesel ‘standards’ would be on his check list.
I have long read of the guidance against being able to disassemble the block, leading to unpressurised parts that loose integrity. 👨🏻🏫So..., the journey, well, ‘journey’ continues😉
I would very much doubt that the blue smoke is due to wear. I did have a similar problem before I sold the car and solved it by replacing the head gasket. Maybe the same problem has returned. When I delivered the car to WOM Automotive it was working perfectly. First thing to do would be a compression test. Make sure that you use the correct adaptor for the glowplug thread - if it's too long it will strip the thread.
The previous owner was of the opinion that diesel was diluting the engine oil. If it was entering via the injectors, you would have a lot of black smoke. The only other possibility is from the tandem pump, if that's possible.
RAB
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Since NOx emissions increase by about 40x when the EGR is bypassed/deleted, you don't need a sensitive, expensive and unreliable analyser such as chemiluminesence; you can use much cheaper IR analysers. There's just one simple valve for EGR; all you have to do is keep the inlet manifold clean which can be done when the VNT mechanism is cleaned. Newer cars are more reliable because they are newer! They are more complicated.
Electric is the answer. My last 3L will be sold this year!
RAB
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Don't do it! You'll invalidate your insurance and increase and increase your NOx emissions by about 40x! For that reason, you'll soon have to reverse your illegal modification:
RAB
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On 12/26/2021 at 10:20 PM, mk2 said:
@RAB, what do you think? I know it's the same on a 3L.
There shouldn't be any crud directly under the filter, only at the sides, so how does it enter the outlet? The filter is only intended to filter out fine particles which should be retained by the filter. Anything else should stay in the sump. That's why you should always remove oil by removing the sump plug, not (as VW do) by pumping it out.
RAB
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Yes! You can't do that on the road. If the clutch reading changes over a few hours, it's the clutch guide sleeve as well.
RAB
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Clutch actuators are consumable items; don't buy a used one! Might be an idea to do a FULL basic setting, rather than missing out an important part, i.e. ADJUST.
RAB
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There's no such thing as a good second-hand clutch guide sleeve. Part no. 7 here:
https://volkswagen.7zap.com/en/rdw/lupo++lupo+3l+tdi/lu/2001-231/1/141-141010/
RAB
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The gearbox has it's own control unit, so you keep the 3L ECU. But I can't see the point. If you look after the units, they'll last a long time. If you want a manual, buy one!
There's also an unpowered steering rack. The powered steering column is similar to that on an Up!.
RAB
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It has been done but not to RHD. There's no RHD steering rack for a 3L. Why bother? There are as many pros and cons to either LHD or RHD with the exception of overtaking but if moving your head a few feet makes that much difference, it's probably not safe to anyway! It's lack of maintenance that makes running a standard 3L expensive. You have to be proactive!
RAB
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Your clutch sleeve is on its' way out.
RAB
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On 10/11/2021 at 9:39 AM, woodyrvf750 said:
Hi Ivan3L, my turbo actuator was sticky, the garage just sprayed it with some lubricant. I'm sure it will need changing again soon.
My 3L has been off the road since the start of this month & I'm just about to give it a good service to get it up and running again.
I would say that the VNT mechanism is gummed up. Your turbo needs an overhaul. In future try using non-supermarket fuel; supermarket fuel lacks the additives to keep the VNT mechanism clean.
RAB
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Most likely the potentiometer of the clutch actuator is beginning to fail. Either buy a new actuator or send the electrical part to Mankmil. See here; https://a2-freun.de/forum/forums/topic/45241-a2-12tdi-gear-selector-not-pushing-down-to-3rd-4th-and-5th-gears/
He will replace the potentiometer with a Hall sensor which is a non-wearing part. English is fine. The second option is the cheapest one and will give a longer life.
RAB
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There is no English VW Lupo 3L manual as it was not sold in the UK. There might be an Italian one but you might have problems finding one. A copy of Elsawin might be more useful.
RAB
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Unless you are very sure about the car's condition, I would avoid. Remember the seller is selling for a reason. Component costs of new hydraulic unit and gearbox actuator are now north of £2k each. Otherwise buy but be proactive with maintenance as otherwise it will become very expensive! You will need VCDS and a copy of Elsawin for maintenance.
RAB
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Unless you are very sure about the car's condition, I would avoid. Remember the seller is selling for a reason. Component costs of new hydraulic unit and gearbox actuator are now north of £2k each. Otherwise buy but be proactive with maintenance as otherwise it will become very expensive! You will need VCDS and a copy of Elsawin for maintenance.
RAB
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That's why it's important to run with the correct grade of oil with a Tdi. The injectors put an enormous amount of pressure on the camshaft. If you don't change the oil at the required intervals (and/or use an incorrect oil), you'll get lots of wear on camshaft shell, particularly the upper ones. That's what has happened here. Even if you do the correct thing, you still get wear!
RAB
Problem with 3l automatic gearshifter
in Volkswagen Lupo
Posted
Check the level of the hydraulic fluid. To check, unplug the pump unit electrically. Undo the accumulator half a turn with a 24mm spanner. Then tighten up the accumulator then check the level in the reservoir. It should be within the rectangle on the side of the reservoir. Top up with VW steering fluid. Then reconnect the pump module. If you have a leak somewhere, sort it out otherwise the problem will re-occur.
You have to be proactive will 3L maintenance.
RAB