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ArosaPD

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Everything posted by ArosaPD

  1. 5 Litres is ample matey. style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" />
  2. You need some like this Max:- http://www.motorsportworld.co.uk/quickcode.asp?qcode=3E7D2 You don't need the ones like these:- http://www.motorsportworld.co.uk/quickcode.asp?qcode=3E7CH Basically you need the type with the spring on the top mate. Photo below is'nt much use but you can see the spring. border="0" class="linked-image" /> border="0" alt="" /> Mark style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" />
  3. Welcome to the Mad House!! style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":lol:" border="0" alt="laugh.gif" /> Mark style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" />
  4. Don't know if I'm just imagining it or if my car is coming out in sympathy, but my clutch seems to be a little difficult at the moment.....It's your fault for mentioning clutches again Luke!? (mine is hydraulic BTW) Mark
  5. Have a look here at the bottom of the page: http://www.performancealloys.com/loweringkits_springs.asp Mark
  6. Some piccies Max (sorry Craig, hi-jacking your post matey). border="0" class="linked-image" /> border="0" alt="" /> border="0" class="linked-image" /> border="0" alt="" /> border="0" class="linked-image" /> border="0" alt="" /> I'm sure you get the general idea. style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=";)" border="0" alt="wink.gif" />
  7. Cheers for the comments Wayne. Max I will have to have a little look for some piccies bud, I know I don't have many though. style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" /> Craig hope these photos are OK matey??.. Mark style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=";)" border="0" alt="wink.gif" />
  8. Welcome to the club Steve, sounds like your little Arosa is a real work horse!! style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":lol:" border="0" alt="laugh.gif" /> Cheers mate Mark style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" />
  9. Oh Pooh, poor little chap....I really like him too, hope he recovers from this and gets better soon!! style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":(" border="0" alt="sad.gif" />
  10. Are you ready Craig?...we shall begin. FRONT BUMPER 1. Undo these 4 torx screws under the inner arch. border="0" class="linked-image" /> border="0" alt="" /> 2. Undo these 2 torx screws on the small lower panel (you may have 2 more unerneath holding this panel on-remove them) border="0" class="linked-image" /> border="0" alt="" /> 3. Undo the screw behind the fog lamp cover. border="0" class="linked-image" /> border="0" alt="" /> 4. Using a pair of pincers pull these 4 plastic plugs out.(the centre pins just pull out, then remove the whole thing) border="0" class="linked-image" /> border="0" alt="" /> 5. Undo the 4 torx screws holding the grille/bumper on.(yours willl be slightly different because I have a different grille.) border="0" class="linked-image" /> border="0" alt="" /> 6. Now pull the bumper from the edge here as it is retained in plastic clips. Don't be afraid to give it a good tug, it's quite tight. border="0" class="linked-image" /> border="0" alt="" /> 6. If you have fog lamps remember to disconnect the electrical connectors or you'll rip them off. border="0" class="linked-image" /> border="0" alt="" /> 2. Remove the rear lenses and remove this torx screw. (Cor..I need to get a bit of polish in there!!) border="0" class="linked-image" /> border="0" alt="" /> 3. Remove these 2 torx screws from underneath the rear bumper (you will see them if you stick your head under there.) Bear in mind that mine looks slightly different to yours because of the rear apron. border="0" class="linked-image" /> border="0" alt="" /> 4. Same as the front, you will need to pull the bumper away from the rear arch as it is held in place by clips so give it a good tug. Don't forget to disconnect your number plate connector when you pull the bumper off... Hope this helps Craig style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" /> Mark
  11. OK, I'll take some now. style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=";)" border="0" alt="wink.gif" />
  12. C'mon Craig, I can literally take both of them off in 20 minutes. Do you want some photos??? Mark
  13. This is the one of the photos I took at the Robbie Williams gig at Milton Keynes the other day, it was a great concert border="0" class="linked-image" /> border="0" alt="" />
  14. Completely lost me on the rubber rear seal bit.. style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":lol:" border="0" alt="laugh.gif" /> Front is easy, as is the back, if you are ready I shall begin. Front Undo the torx20 screws (about 4 on each side) that attach the inner arch to the front bumper (look under the wheel arch and you will see them clearly). Remove the lower screws on the arch liner that hold the little panel on (small horizonal panel between arch liner and bumper) There are 4 little plastic push grommets if you look under the front of the car, use a pair of pincers to remove the central pin and pull them out. Take off your fog lamp panels and remove two torx25 screws (one on behind each panel). Lift the bonnet and undo the 4 torx screws that effectively hold the front grille/bumper onto the slam panel. Now all you do is pull the bumper from where it clips into place by the wheel arches and hey presto the bumper will come straight off, so long as you have disconnected your foglamp wires first. Rear Take off both rear lenses and undo the torx20 screw behind them. Undo about 4 torx20 screws that hold bumper to the inner arch (llok under the arch and you will see them quite clearly) and then if you look under the rear of the car by the bumper you will see 2 torx20 screws, these also need to be removed. If you pull the bumper away from the arches (and out of the clips) the bumper will come away, but remember to disconnect your electrical connectors for your number plate lamps first. I have no idea why you are taking a rubber seal off when removing the rear bumper and the front headlights are held in by 4 philips screws (3 are going from the top of the car down and the fourth is horizontal going from the front of the car to the rear. With the bumper removed you will see the fourth one easily. NOTE you have to remove the front bumper in order to remove the headlights BTW!! Mark style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" />
  15. I commute on the A418 Aylesbury to Oxford road on a daily basis. This is a 60MPH road and there is a Gatso on a slight left hand bend. I have travelled this route for years and have never ever seen an accident at this location, but the point I am making is that people see this camera whilst doing 60ish and jam their brakes on thinking that they have entered a 30 or 40 MPH speed limit area. Irronic eh,...a road safety camera that causes accidents!!! The highways agency have only last week put a sign on the camera post, of a camera with a national speed limit sign on it (so they were aware of the problem). I have had loads of people slamming their brakes on in front of me, resulting in me nearly smashing into the back of them. style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":huh:" border="0" alt="huh.gif" /> As an ex police officer myself ANPR is usually turnt off in most traffic cars because of all the wrong hits that the computers used to come up with. This can be time consuming for officers to follow up and is one of the reasons that the police are clamping down on using correct font/size/spacing on number plates to reduce inconsistencies on ANPR. Mark style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" />
  16. Wouldn't bother with the stealers. Try GSF or Eurocarparts or even here.. http://www.vwspares.co.uk/lupo_suspension.php Same stuff at a fraction of the price. Mark style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" />
  17. I like them Ray. The only question I will ask is what profile tyres are you looking at fitting to them mate. It's just that the Photoshop image gives the impression that the profile is too big and needs to be IMHO no more than a 45 especially if you are lowering the car some more. Will look cool mate.. style="vertical-align:middle" emoid="B)" border="0" alt="cool.gif" /> Mark
  18. Oh Al, just what I was thinking, you said it and I thought it.. Front bumper is an obvious no and rear is a yes, but there are more questions sorry Helen. When you say "Valances", what exactly do you mean? Although the lower part of a rear bumper looks as if it is in two seperate parts, it is not. The bumper is moulded in one piece. My Arosa has a Lupo rear bumper on it. style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" /> Mark
  19. Niall, is it the cup holder that fits into the radio slot that you are after??...If so I have one here. PM me bud if you want it. style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=";)" border="0" alt="wink.gif" /> Mark
  20. Thanks for the replies peeps, I usually have tinted rear lenses on the rear Jen just took them off this weekend to remove a scratch in the laquer (some clown with a run-away shopping trolley me thinks!!) The wheels are very red I must confess, but I've had more people than I'd have estimated coming up to me and telling me they really like them. style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" /> Mark
  21. Oh hell I'm sorry everyone for the wait, but here they are. The photos aren't very good I'm afraid and make my car look rather pink.. border="0" class="linked-image" /> border="0" alt="" /> border="0" class="linked-image" /> border="0" alt="" /> border="0" class="linked-image" /> border="0" alt="" />
  22. In reality it is a 1 hour job on a ramp. The biggest problem is the exhaust downpipe, I removed my system in about 20 minutes and once that is off you just take off the droplink nuts on each side of the ARB and the two ARB clamp bolts and just feed it out, Eezzee Peezzee. style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=";)" border="0" alt="wink.gif" /> If you could do this job without hinderance from the exhaust it would, without a shadow of a doubt take 20 minutes, it's the exhaust that's the pain. Depending on the garage of course, some like to charge more time than others, defo no more than two hours labour charge.
  23. Now there seems to be a little confusion setting in here. What Sleeky (Lee) was refering to was the 2 rubber bushes on the droplink (bolt..if you want to call it that) that sandwiches the wishbone by fitting one on either side of the wishbone (if that makes sense). So the answer to your question Al is yes. You can replace the ARB without touching the wisbones at all, other than to pass the droplink through it. But you will need to remove/drop/manouver your exhaust downpipe to remove the old ARB and to fit the new one. Mark style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" /> You shouldn't need to have wheel alignment done Al.
  24. Ok mate, just me jummbling up the posts. I really don't know mate to be honest, they are probably the same VW part numbers. style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":lol:" border="0" alt="laugh.gif" /> Teflon really knows his stuff and if he says it will fit then I would have no reason whatsoever to doubt him fella. Mark style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" />
  25. You've lost me there.. style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":confused:" border="0" alt="confused.gif" /> I what respect do you me is the design better?? Lupo GTi ARBs are indeed 22mm in diameter, both Eibach and H&R have 21mm ARB kits. Mark style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" />
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