con9t2
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Posts posted by con9t2
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Spoke too soon, as usual!
First day or two she started up first turn of the key no issues, since then it's gone back to several turns of the key, stuttering etc.
I'm now also getting a P0321 code thrown up and from what I've read this may be the crankshaft sensor?
Going to replace the purge valve just in case, in regards to the not starting issue.
One thing I did notice is how my injectors were spraying fuel, (from left to right) 1 and 4 were noticeably lower pressure than 2 and 3 - Is this normal or would I need to replace the fuel rail also? I swapped over the injectors and they are all fine as it was still low pressure on 1 and 4, I'm thinking it's something to do with that, perhaps over fuelling in the rail?
Thanks
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Hi there,
Over the past few months I've made quite a few posts about a re-occurring problem I was having, this issue has since been solved and embarrassed to say it was quite a simple fix - So I'm just posting this in case someone could use the tip.
Check for leaks in the EVAP system, the hose that goes from the purge valve up to the throttle body should be good and tight. For months and months it would take a good 5-10 mins for my car to start and after a long process of elimination, all it turned out to be was this hose..
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UPDATE:
After many weeks of waking up neighbours with trying to start my car I think I've finally found the issue, ordered a new fuel filter from Eurocarparts (Big up the 50% off) and fitted it. Not a problem this morning with the starting.
I also noticed the old filter on the car was backwards (arrows pointing towards end of the car) and doubt it was changed recently as the screw holding it in was basically welded in, managed to rip it open to see the damage too. Bit of WD40 and a bit of petrol down my sleeve later and the car is running way better.
Thanks for all your input!
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On 10/3/2019 at 1:02 PM, LR5V said:
By silver disk, are you describing the limit plate at the very top of the strut inside the engine bay - this stops the strut dropping out of the turret?
The bearings are the same as used in many VW's I know they were the same as Mk3 Mk4 - I used to fit Lemforder bearings, but unlike their bushes they did not seem to last, look for SKF ones, with a metal body.
Yes it's the ones in the engine bay, I'm going to return some SKF bearings I ordered as these were clearly wrong. I've found someone who is breaking an arosa so may have to ask very nicely if he will sell them to me
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I've greased it but it seems the creaks are more structural than it being the strut, gonna have to disassemble the struts and maybe add new top mount bearings
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So I've been running JOM bluelines for a few months now, I didn't expect them to be so...creaky...
What top mounts and bearings should I be using? I'm having a lot of trouble finding the original ones to buy (silver disk with the black rubber ring around the outside) but if anyone has a link to them it would be greatly appreciated.
I've read with the JOM coilovers there may need to be some modding of the mount, can anyone confirm this?
Thanks!
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So the ignition is all fine, spark plugs are good and emitting sparks like you said. I found a 'knack' which seems to be working, I just have to turn the key as slow as I can and the first instance it turns the engine over let go of the key and it starts. I got a new battery last week as the old one used to die if it was turned over too much, I don't think it's made much of a difference but needed a new one anyway
Definitely feeling like it's a fuel issue still, just because sometimes when I'm driving it will shudder slightly if driving at low speeds, gonna have to check out the fuel pump at some point
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2 minutes ago, mk2 said:
If you see sparks on the plugs, then ignition is just fine... get someone to crank while you're up front with the plugs out. Watch for sparks..
While there with plugs out, have a sniff and see if you can smell any fuel. if not, there's you're problem.
If the fuel pump isn't running, most likely to be the relay that powers the pump. Or fuel filter. or the pump itself. could be a loose wire though or fuse which will take some investigating.
Yeah I've taken tomorrow off work to look at it properly because it's doing my head in! My friend did mention about the relay which I just haven't got around to checking. Would it just be the case of cleaning and re-wiring or would it be essential to get new parts?
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Hi
I've been having this issue for a while and after a long train of trial and error I've resorted to asking on here.. The car is an 8v 1.0 petrol - AUC engine.
Essentially the car won't start in the morning or after the engine has been off for more than 6/7 hours. Can't be the plugs as I've replaced the coil pack, leads and plugs - cleaned and gapped them too. I've patched up all the air leaks I could hear/find and replaced a lot of the hoses.
Something I have noticed is that on the first turn of the key, you can't hear the fuel pump regulating after 2 times it's done it. Is this normal or should it be doing this every time?
I've Blanked the egr (drilled a 4mm hole in the plate though to see if that would stop the light coming on) - not an issue as I can blank off with Bluetooth OBD reader.
I've narrowed it down to fuel, I've been reading online about the temp sensor and coolant sensor can be the cause of this but I'm not sure it is linked. I'm guessing it'll be the fuel pump which I'm yet to check - tomorrows job.
So I guess what I'm asking is if this sounds similar to anything you've experienced? and if so, how was it resolved?
Thanks!
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I'll deffo be interested in one
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......
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Bare with me just having some technical difficulties 😂
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This link should work..
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Just posting some pics because I got new wheels, pads and disks over the weekend. Amazing how a set of wheels can transform a car...
Was looking for something retro so when these popped up I couldn't resist!
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White would be good for me tbh, I'd be happy to chuck anything on haha
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Where can I order stickers from? 😁
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On 6/26/2019 at 9:11 PM, mk2 said:
Unrelated, just coincidence me thinks. Check light switch for fogs. If you have leccy windows, it could be the CCM (central convenience module). The lights have a dimmer circuit and delay timer. But otherwise it could be door switches.
It's poverty spec mate so no electric windows unfortunately, do you know if we should be using the Polo 6n2 haynes manual? Or is there a lupo one
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Just a quick one guys
Anyone know of a wiring diagram for the lights? Need to figure out whats up with my rear fog and interior light. all fuses and bulbs fine so must be a problem along the way
Thanks!
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My egr was throwing up a code and the engine light, took 4 hours to take out due to a very rounded bolt and other complications.
In the end I just bit the bullet and bought one, like you said it pisses out coolant when you take it off so am not sure if there's a way to blank off that hole (who know water cooled egr's were a thing), runs fine with a new one now. Did look into blanking though, seems like a lot of hassle for not much in return. I'd just shell out for a new one rather than £20 from a scrappy not knowing when it's going to go again
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6 hours ago, Sausage said:
if it is rear wheel then wheel bearing most likely.
I wish the Arosa was RWD
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On 3/25/2019 at 1:32 PM, Sausage said:
No idea, some use bluetooth OBD dongles and whatnot, I should probably look into it but you can get an old corporate laptop running windows 98 for £20 or less and stuff it with diagnostic stuff, the KKL lead for £5 and find full vcds lite v1.0 on internet for £0. It keeps it all separate from your main laptop / PC that way as well so safer all round.
Ah awesome I'll deffo look into that.
As for now, I'm gonna spend the weekend cleaning the egr, give it a service, replace leads and clutch etc. Hopefully this'll solve the problems that I currently have.
There is just another thing too, while driving there's a whirring noise as if something is grinding. I've checked the brakes all around and nothing scrubbing etc. From the inside it sounds like it's coming from passenger side but I have a suspicion it's coming from the rear axle? I'm gonna jack it up on the weekend and have a look but is this something you've come across before?
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1 hour ago, Sausage said:
Fault code looks like EGR valve. 500 idle is too low and probably the noise you hear is the gearbox or clutch rattling because of the vibrations. Fix the slow idle before worrying about a clutch.
Look for vacuum leaks on the pipes for starters. Get cheap KKL and VCDS lite for codes and much more.
Welcome to the Club!
Thanks man! Do you think getting a bluetooth ocb2 and getting the Torque Lite app will work the same? Just because I don't really have a laptop spare, more of a desktop guy D:
Yeah I have noticed a hissing noise, going to give it a good looking round on my day off this week and have a tinker, wanted to clean the throttle body/EGR out, I've been told different things as to what my car actually has but I'm sure I'll figure it out haha
Thanks!
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Hi,
Recently picked up a 2002 Arosa 1.0L petrol just for a little resto project, wondering about a few niggles I've come across already..
Previous owner recently replaced HT leads and gear linkage, past 3 MOT's have been fine so it's been looked after relatively well. The engine light is on and has been on for months according to previous owner, after a bit of reading it's either a case of cleaning out the throttle body or replacing the clutch release bearing, not sure on the location of the TB though.
Also, used an OBD2 reader and it threw up a P0404 code, but can't seem to find what that is? Do I need to use a vag specific obd2 reader or is any just fine? Cleared the codes and engine light went off for all of 20 mins until it came back on - apparently a common issue.
The final problem I've come across is at some certain point the revs go from 1k idling to 500, chugging sound coming from clutch which is why I think the clutch release bearing needs replacing - but may as well do a full kit replace.
Sorry for the amount of questions for a first post but thought I'd settle in
Thanks
PSA: Check your EVAP system!
in Seat Arosa
Posted
Definitely worth checking out, I replaced a few hoses that looked like they were standard issue....a 17 year old hose can't be good!