RvB
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Posts posted by RvB
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Hel Performance cover Lupos and Arosas.
https://auto.helperformance.com/car/braided-lines/brake-lines/volkswagen/lupo
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I jacked up the car the other day and heard a loud ping as the rear came up. Driver side rear spring has snapped! Car isn't being used at the moment so didn't think much of it until I have come to find some springs and hit an unexpected problem.
Car in question is an Arosa 1.4 16v (100HP) Sport, all the standard replacement springs from factors seem to exclude the 100hp or say they're for non sports suspension equipped cars. So this car has a different spring by the looks and judging from part numbers different to the Lupo sport too perhaps. Anyone know for sure what the differences are?
I guess a lot a people have put on lowered springs negating the issue but was hoping to just replace the rear springs and keep it stock/oem.
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13 hours ago, Sarahs Lupo said:
I got new rear brakes and fluid to go on. Do you think it will help or is this normal.
For me having a car at 44% efficient, isn’t something to be happy about??
I don’t get it. Is this a case of a lightbulb that gives off more heat than light lol
Those numbers look fine, your fronts are exactly the same as our Arosa Sport on it's last test and your backs are better. Bare in mind that your total braking efficiency is 73%. It's only a calculation based on the braking force generated and weight of the vehicle. The MOT limit is 50% for these cars so you're well above that.
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In the passenger side rear qtr there's a clump of wires/pipes following path of the wheel arch. In there is the washer pipe and there is a joiner up near the top, highly like the joiner has blown apart hence the puddle of water in the passenger side. Find the joiner and put it back together and all should be good. Although your washer jet is also probably blocked and seized to the tube that runs through the motor which is why the join blew apart in the first place!
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16 hours ago, mk2 said:
just had an idea... is there normal power when you give it some stick while driving? Like at highish revs 3k+? Just wondering if there's a fuel supply problem.
Yep, get it above 3K and it sings, pulls well and revs sweetly up to the red line.
6 hours ago, mk2 said:I have no idea whats going on...
Take some measurements with hot engine, not running. Test pedal. 0-100% ; TPS should follow (in theory).
Pedal at rest = 14.5% moves through the range until the stop = 85% and back again to 14.5% at rest.
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Maybe I should be in blocks 050 to 056 instead of the 060 onwards for the throttle position?
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14 minutes ago, mk2 said:
Those numbers are off. The one that gets me is the load. 12% what?! And the accelerator pedal at 15% huh? Was your foot on the pedal during the measurements? At idle, it should be 0. The car is a manual (not auto box?).
The label file is the right one isn't it? Its just that the numbers don't make sense to me.
Reckon it's the right label file. Engine control Module has part number 036 906 034 BA, matches label file 036-906-034-APE.lbl which is for AUB engines if I open that file up.
Definitely no foot on the pedal, I was in the passenger seat! And yes manual, not auto.
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Right, so car is hot, just been driven 25 miles. Fuel Trims look perfect!
Throttle Position blocks
Interestingly the eml was on when I setup vcds, so went into fault codes and got this.
1 Fault Found:
17582 - Fuel Trim; Bank 1: Injection Timing Deviation (Balance Fault)
P1174 - 35-00 - -
---------------------------------------------------------------------------I didn't clear the code and went and did the above tests, then went back into fault codes to clear it and had it gone and been replaced with the running rich one.
1 Fault Found:
16556 - Fuel Trim; Bank 1: System Too Rich
P0172 - 35-00 - -
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15 hours ago, LR5V said:
Could this be Green sensor?
The coolant temp sensor you mean? Looks like it was replaced last year by previous owner, temp gauge and vcds shows 90 when up to temp.
13 hours ago, mk2 said:My hunch is an air/vacuum leak.
I'm thinking that too, but where is the thing. I've been through the vacuum lines and can't see anything. What about the evap thing, when does that kick in? Anywhere in the egr system that would allow a vac leak when it kicks in? Is that a non return valve on the dangly pipe coming from the egr valve?
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Looks like I'm still chasing this. 😒
Engine light has come on again after about 100 miles, only this time I've got a different code (progress I guess!).
1 Fault Found:
16556 - Fuel Trim; Bank 1: System Too Rich
P0172 - 35-00 - -
---------------------------------------------------------------------------I haven't looked at fuel trims yet, as engine is cold so will take it for a drive later to see what it's doing. But is there something I'm missing on the vacuum/air side to check for leaks? A system that kicks in later when hot and driving, egr or breather system or something like that? as the trims looked pretty normal initially.
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Right, went though all the pipes and joints I could find squirting some carb cleaner around any joints listening and watching vcds. Can't find any thing leaking!
So I bit the bullet and got a cheap upstream o2 sensor to try. The trims look much more sensible now with the new sensor.
Exhaust and cat temps are higher now too, although manifold pressure is still around 300mbar.
So we'll see what happens and if the light stays out!
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Thanks for looking.
50 minutes ago, Sausage said:http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Fuel_Trim_Info
Group 32: -20% means running rich.
Quote" In general, an out-of-spec value in the first field (Additive) indicates a vacuum leak since it is mostly present at idle, when vacuum is highest. An out-of-spec value in the second field (Multiplicative) indicates a fault at higher RPM, and may point to a faulty MAF.
Yeah, that's what I thought.
53 minutes ago, mk2 said:your engine loading should be a lot lower for idle. it;s telling you that 11% of your available engine power is being used!
cat temp should be 600+
injection timing should be about 1.2-1.6 for idle for hot engine (unless loaded with AC or something)
manifold pressure should be lower too. you want a fairly high vacuum at warm idle.
it could be an air leak (as in extra air is being sucked in somewhere). Not convinced the cat or the O2 sensor are toast. they're pretty tough.
i'd be tempted to pop down to the local mot place and ask them to just have a sniff with their gas analyser for a minute. that'd be ultimate proof of whats coming out of the tail pipe. hydrocarbons are all you're interested in. if high, then it could be the cat. if low/normal then something to do with the fuelling/air system.
What would a healthy manifold pressure at idle be? I'll go through all the vacuum pipes at the weekend.
if an o2 sensor is giving a false reading surely this would be telling the ecu the wrong info too though?
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Not a 100% on what these VCDS tests are telling me (if anything!), other than the cat test failed.
Measuring block tests.
The -20% Lambda adaption would indicate running rich would it not?
The sensor tests
And finally the cat test which seems conclusive! Unless one of the sensors isn't reading right?
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I had similar trying to get vcds to link up, tried different interfaces and software etc, nothing worked. Then found this:
http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/aftermarket-radio.html
The aftermarket stereo, or more specifically the aftermarket wiring harness had put 12v onto the K-Line and was stopping the interface connecting up. Disconnected the stereo wiring harness and it all connected up fine.
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15 minutes ago, mk2 said:
You can use VAGCOM (VCDS) to diagnose the Lambda voltage. If you start graphing the voltage from stone cold, you should see it rise then change from open loop to closed loop control, once warm. It should hover around 0.7V from memory. When rich, it goes down, lean goes up (more oxygen).
I take it that's Block 031 you're talking about there? I haven't looked at these yet, will have a go later along with the ageing test that Sausage mentioned.
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1 minute ago, Sausage said:
original cat or aftermarket?
There is some readiness tests in vagcom apparently for the o2 sensors.http://www.vwaudiforum.co.uk/forum/showthread.php/176472-Lambda-ageing-test
I'd say original. There's a load of history with the car, there's a receipt for the secondary cat and front exhaust section in 2013, but don't see anything for the main manifold cat. Looking at it it looks original and untouched around that area.
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36 minutes ago, Rich said:
Calculate your mpg and see if there's a negative effect there
It's around 38-40 mpg, which I would have said was okay.
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Revisiting this for some more input, if I may.
Car has now done about 600 miles since I initially posted, so several tanks of fuel and several "spirited" drives. And it's been doing 25 mile dual carriage way runs at around 70-80 mph twice a day for the last couple of weeks. I've also put a bottle of cataclean in it.
BUT the light still keeps coming on, the fault code is the same every time. When I clear the fault code it stays away for about 80 miles and then comes back.
So what do we think, worth persevering, or look at o2 sensors, cat etc? or something else?
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Has anyone got a good, i.e. nozzle not seized or leaking, rear wiper motor for a Lupo/Arosa that they would sell? Perhaps one that was removed when doing a wiper delete.
Just found out the Arosa's one has the nozzle seized to the shaft and is spraying more inside the car than out!
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There's certainly something different with momentum, whenever I put it in my Abarth it gives the exhaust vapour a very parafinny type smell and makes it pop and fart a bit more. Don't get that smell with vpower or regular unleaded.
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Thanks. It's got a fresh tank of momentum 99 all ready for a good blast, so will see how it goes.
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My lad's 2003 Arosa 1.4 Sport brought the engine management light on a couple of days ago. Car was running fine before it came on and after too. I've put vag com on it and got this:
1 Fault Found:
16804 - Catalyst System; Bank 1: Efficiency Below Threshold
P0420 - 35-00 -I've cleared the code and driven it about 10 miles and the eml hasn't come back on yet. I've checked for exhaust leaks and can't see/hear anything, so I'm wondering if the knowledgeable folk of clublupo have come across this one before. Do the o2 sensors fail with age on these cars or is it more likely the cat itself?
We got the car in November and it hasn't done a lot of miles since as he's still learning to drive, in fact it hasn't done a lot of miles in the last few years as the previous owner only did about 1200 miles a year and so did the previous owner to that. So I'm hoping it's just gunged up and a few good spirited drives will clear it out a bit, but if not any ideas where to look?
Lupo GTI Rear Brake part NLA...help!!
in Car Care, Maintenance and Mechanical
Posted
The hard lines are easily made, I would have thought your mechanic could make them up. A brake flaring kit isn't out of the realm of the diyer either, there's some cheap ones around £30 but Lazer make a really nice one for about £80 that does SAE and DIN flares and usable while lines are still on the car, handy when splicing in a new bit of line.
Hel make a braided line kit for the Gti.
https://auto.helperformance.com/hel-braided-brake-lines-for-volkswagen-lupo-1-6-gti-2000