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yeha

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Everything posted by yeha

  1. Have a look on the TDIclub.com forums under tdi power enhancements. There's a huge thread. The latest posts detail a lad with 160hp in Holland but a tuning company over there has managed 212.
  2. It's easier to hold the rectangular part 1. You don't need to grease it. Once you've got a feel for the force required, you'll be fine in the future.
  3. It comes out straight but takes a bit of force. Just make sure you pull on the body of the connector, not the wires. Those pliers will do.
  4. It's a 501 bulb. Any long nosed plier will do. The bulb holder just pulls out.
  5. They are a pain. I tend to drop the lamp out so I can use long nose pliers. The bumper plastic comes off quite easily. 5 mins once you've done it a few times. There's screws in the slam panel, under the wheel arches and underneath if you've got the undertray fitted correctly.
  6. ANCC novice champion navigator in my first year. Did it for 15 years. I'm no fan of Quaife and I've had to work with them a couple of times, but the range of suppliers is limited. I'm running an Mfactory in my 02J. Keep an eye on the website as they have sales. Mine cost under £500. I've got a Gripper in a MK1 Golf which is definitely the more fun device but needs more maintenance. You will find the small wheel arches limit tyre choice and the lower height of the GTi is not ideal.
  7. Is your clutch pedal in good condition? If the metal bracket that goes around the plastic bush has failed, then you're not getting full travel of the master cylinder.
  8. If it selects when the engine is off and doesn't when it's on, then I'd be looking at clutch drag. Can you select gears without the clutch? Just lift off the throttle and put a bit of pressure on the gear stick.
  9. I've got my old one sat in the garage. Nothing much wrong with it, I just built a better one with an LSD. Unfortunately it's in Harrogate which is a long way from you. It's easy enough to swap to the newer 02J shifter tower which is definitely better than the original item.
  10. Open the switch up and give the pcb a clean. The contact pads corrode. Different contacts are used for the lift and lower.
  11. I did the breather mod to get more juice in there.
  12. Not mine. It's in Egremont on the west cost of Cumbria. I got the wheels and fuel cooler. If anyone needs parts, I'll pass on the contact details.
  13. Has the metal cage around the slave cylinder actuator rod failed? I've had to weld mine up on 2 cars.
  14. Mine averages 58 to 63. I do 13 miles each way to work on roads that limit me to 50mph. I can get 60mpg sat between 70 / 80 on the motorway but I do have a non standard box with longer ratios. I get around 530 miles out of a tank, the best was 580. I have a LWB T5 which does 37mpg on a run. I reckon the Arosa is free just on the fuel economy savings.
  15. After getting the VW no.s, I find Autodoc is a good place to look as you can compare a range of OEM supplier part no.s and then do the ebay thing.
  16. The housing is the same so don't see why not.
  17. There are so many part no.s given for each model and the only info given by VAG is the colour code. Ultimately the manufacturer creates a spring that has the right spring rate and installed ride height for whichever model they think they are making the spring for. There are many ways to achieve this depending on the OD of the wire and spring.
  18. Start with the technical regs of whatever association oversees the events you wan to do. I was into rallying so the MSA blue book is the place to start. Otherwise it's the FIA. Here's the relevant MSA info: https://www.motorsportuk.org/assets/harnessguidance02.04.19.pdf I've been in enough accidents to know that it wants to be right and the spec above is a minimum. You are priceless and need to go home when you've finished having fun. Cars are replaceable.
  19. You could get a normal beam and transfer the anti roll bar tube across. Need a couple of holes drilling and the tube welding in.
  20. Sounds like classic clutch drag where the engine never disengages properly. Could be that the hydraulic system isn't pushing the clutch arm far enough. What height is the clutch pedal? Does it feel like it's pushing all the way down? Have a look at the pedal from below and make sure the white plastic bit hasn't punched it's way out of the back of the pedal.
  21. Online EKTA Beam: http://www.oemepc.com/vw/part_single/catalog/vw/markt/RDW/modell/LU/year/2003/drive_standart/231/hg_ug/500/subcategory/500025/part_id/3691642/lang/e Brakes: http://www.oemepc.com/vw/part_single/catalog/vw/markt/RDW/modell/LU/year/2003/drive_standart/231/hg_ug/615/subcategory/615065/part_id/3691680/lang/e Not the best but you'll soon figure it out.
  22. yeha

    SDI tuning...

    Rolling coal...
  23. Any one care to point me in the direction of a how to for the heater cable? Mine is stuck on cold. Heater cable is a bad combination for the search and there's nothing in the FAQ.
  24. It's great until you have a dodgy speed sensor. A mates Arosa locked him out one day whilst the engine was running. It was very funny when he rang me asking for help to decide which window to smash... I took him home for the spare key. I hate it and turned it off along with the single door unlock. If you want the windows to go up, just turn the key and hold it. Works for the down on unlock too.
  25. or do it the easy way... If you look closely where the rubber strap (fnar fnar) connects to the cap, there's a couple of small, 1mm dia., plastic pins. Simply push them through the rotating donut enough to release the strap. Attach new strap and push them back.
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