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LR5V

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Everything posted by LR5V

  1. No I dont... but have an idea - In the Mk5 world they have Dead set kits that counter the Alloy subframes creaking and to help keep alignment, they have collars to centre the bolt in the subframe top and bottom - they work very well. They fit top and bottom of the subframe, bottom ones are a top hat that goes into bottom of subframe, top ones also have an inverted top hat section that goes into subframe and on top a shallow raised lip that aligns in the bolt opening in the chassis, they look like this: Both Lupo and Mk5 use M12 bolts, so the internal diameter will work, this just leaves the only size needing checking is the diameter of the openings in the subframe, front bolts should work, but not sure if a lower collar would work at the bottom of rear control arm bush, top one may need shortening. Where to source: The premium kits are well over £200 for Tyrol sport complete with ARP bolts - complete overkill - enter cheap Aliexpress Chinese copies, as an example they do front and rear kits for the Mk5 landed in the UK for around £30, thats 20 collars that claim to be CNC'd and anodised, there are slight differences front and rear. front kit is for 6 bolts, maybe just a rear subframe kit with 4 bolts could work in a Lupo? If interested I can check the Mk5 subframe opening sizes.
  2. Welcome to the forum Afraid it won't physically fit - the facia on that radio is bigger than the double din in the Lupo
  3. Webasto have been going for decades, it should be a quality product: https://www.webasto-comfort.com/en-uk/roof-solutions/car/ You can right click on the image and open in another tab to get a bigger image or even save to your hard drive to zoom in - the interior shot looks like it has been well installed. ...but personally I would see its addition to the car as a negative
  4. needs to be petrol safe and non-crush or it will collapse and dissolve
  5. £130 - wow - they have to pay for dieselgate somehow! TBF you were lucky to get served - the went trade only a while ago - no walk in customers, all pre-ordered and pre-paid over the phone. The bit in the middle of the pipe is a non-return valve to keep vacuum in the servo - confirm it is this line by disconnecting and capping the connection into the engine - if the noise stops it is this part. You could carefully cut off the pipe between servo and non-return valve and replace with non-crushable silicone & jubilee clamps - work out the diameter and get a 90 elbow - the connector at the servo will swivel.
  6. I thought you got the entire seat - with foams too?
  7. Replace whole seat with a RHD passenger one imported from the continent - @mk2 has done this What you spend in shipping you save in trimming - plus finish will be better with OEM un-molested seat
  8. LR5V

    Gti parts

    When I have bought stuff at distance - I found arranging courier to collect usually helped convince the seller - just ask for some packaging to stop them being destroyed. parcel to go have been pretty good for me recently - the seller can drop them off at a collection point.
  9. It's usually a visual check to see if there is a CAT under the car... You are sure there is one down there? its unusual for VW to be generous! Diesel guys smash out the innards of OEM CAT to retain the outer body - as long as it passes emissions you should be OK Even if you fail you get 7 days to present it for re-test, that should be enough time to swap it back if necessary.
  10. A lot of parts are shared with Polo's of similar age - and there are a lot more of them than Lupo's If you know the part number it should be easier to find what you need on ebay. Another source that helps is online parts catalogues - but can be tricky to navigate - this is my current goto: https://7zap.com/en/catalog/cars/Volkswagen/brand/20/0/Lupo/Lupo (1999 - 2006)
  11. A bad thought just jumped into my head - I hope i'm wrong - have you checked for thrust bearing play in the crank? To keep the weight down, Epytec may have made the width of the ring gear as narrow as possible, to only suit normal crank end float - if you have wear your crank may be moving out of contact with the starter, OEM probably has wider ring gear keeping the starter in range.
  12. Looks weld-able to me - suspect it will be a PITA to do. Likely it will need the door taken off, a donor part from a scrap yard - hack saw to get as much of the part as possible. Cut back the damaged section to a straight line of not stretched metal just past the damage: and weld the replacement section back on - the good news is the lower good part will help match up and align the replacement bit.
  13. ...for mine I got new Lemforder arms, pushed out the brand new bushes and installed the superpro poly goodness
  14. Lemforder - they come with bushes already installed
  15. My mate just sent me this:
  16. That's not a cheap part - TBF the others are probably not ran as hard as you are! I would suggest getting an OEM one lightened - my guy in South Wales knows what he is doing, tell him what you want and he will lighten it down keeping strength and balance
  17. not what you need just before an event - Good luck where did you get the flywheel?
  18. I had those Hankooks on my Mk4 Golf - Awesome tyres, even worked pretty well in snow Definitely timing belt as soon as - especially if oil has been poured all over the timing belt end of the engine - in fact I would whip off the upper cam belt cover and check the state of the belt felling teeth for softness, engine oil breaks down timing belts...don't ask how I know.
  19. Good solid result - how high have you made you rev limit? - mine just wanted to keep going past 7K, no sign of power drop off till very rude hard limit at 7.6
  20. LR5V

    My new car

    Wow that is a clean beam - thought you were going to say it had been powder coated. Rich - did you picked that language up - in between comparing hair straighteners -on the TT forums?
  21. LR5V

    Dead SDi

    Maybe I have been lucky, for me they are the inverse of Febi where everything I have had was bad (apart from their bolts and clips) - for Topran Everything I have had by them has been good, off the top of my head I have used: Mk4 golf - ABS sensors, engine mounts, front wheel bearings. Mk3 - ignition switch, metal coolant pipes that refused to rust. Lupo - indicator and wiper stalks, ABS sensors Have to admit they used to be my go-to for parts - but they changed their e-catalogue website, you need to be in the trade to get a log in, I cant double check part numbers. i have even returned ebay parts that claimed to be topran but were not. Yes - I understand they are an OEM for BMW... so technically its right! - terrible name The ignition switch used is Topran part
  22. LR5V

    Dead SDi

    Wow - what a ball ache! Topran stuff tends to be really good - they punch well above their price point
  23. Nice work - how did you choose trumpet length or did Danst advise? I missed all the brake chat before - I can see the ABS is away, are you now on a pedal box with master cylinders front and rear? Last Q - what's that caged shell lurking under the loom table?
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