LR5V

You would give Florence nightingale a run for her money nursing that issue for 6 years!

NP - Drop box link to S3 wiring diagram in this thread works HIH : https://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/ecu-wiring-diagram.244983/ ECU power is first place I would look into

Additional - on mine it was Relay 30 that lives in the engine bay - its the ECU power - usually grey

20v ECU? - looms differ between engines, you need to give us the engine code My Mk4 Golf AUM has an odd relay in the engine bay that would play up from time to time, wasn't aware of it till someone told me about it.

Worth trying Mk2’s suggestion, but I get the feeling the plastic may have stretched, your blister my not want to go back down. in hotter country’s they have carpet dash protectors, not the most attractive and doubt there is one for the polo/lupo dash- maybe Japan?, but it could disguise the problem. possible fix is getting the damaged area of the dash cut back, filled and finally flocked, it would help disguise the damage.

Unlike alloy - Steel is a lot harder to crack in a pot hole and the plug thread isn’t alloy - apart from cosmetics, the only advantage I can think of is alloy dissipates heat a bit better than steel

I destroyed the rear lap belt on Red Mk3 Anniversary belt - going too close with the pressure washer - the difference in feel of the belt changes considerably after they are cleaned. Pressure washing internal carpets (out of the car) is good too... but I draw the line at seats

Oh, the horror of the 90's!

I seem to recall the OP mentioned in a previous post, that they are specifically looking for an Auto box for motor sport - How different are the bolt positions? do any line up?

To be clear - you were obviously on a national speed limit road. Cant remember if you had fitted Cams? - if not they must be on the shopping list

what speed and gear was that accelerating from?

The extreme cleaning method is pressure washer - with the belts out of the car - at a reasonable distance... too close and the nylon starts to fray - don't ask how I know!

Well, the my new arms are powder coated and Superpro camber correction polybushes. That is just special - was that a Llanelli local car?

You can just see GSN in this picture:

It is pretty well hidden, the PN is a read herring, code is just above the clutch slave cylinder: The letters are machine made, punched pin marks - difficult to see - I used a black marker to fill the recesses to highlight the letters.

This was what i found hidden in my subframe during my rebuild:

The bolts just clamp the wheel onto the hub, the spigot is very important to centre the wheel. I think in this case the time taken to make a set would not be well spent - plastic ones are fine - at $6 for a set I would just get busy with the vernier calipers and hit ebay or silvers link

Agreed it could be rear beam, but they could be referring to the rear of front control arm on both sides - you need to drop in or call the test centre to request more clarification. Rear beams do rust through, but I would say control arms are the more likely suspect as they are thinner metal.

Whoa - that's a nice piece of kit - not heard of them, only CAE

Rusty sill pictures re-done above.

Cheers Guys - nothing really done. Family stuff getting in the way of important things like Lupo Gti's. For some reason those pictures wouldnt post, will try to re-do them when I am home. Afraid I was busy last weekend - I was hoping it was this coming weekend - I am just off Queenferry Road so easy to drop in. The daily Mk4 has been having a hard time, but got some love - I replaced both rear wheel bearings, really wish I had done them a lot sooner. I changed the stone guards, near-side was straight forward, off-side one stub axle bolt sheared and I couldn't get the remains out.... Also annoyingly the turbo seals are starting to let go, if I drive a short distance shut off the engine and restart in 5 minutes I get grey smoke on boost for a few miles - suspect the turbo bearing is coked up. The good news is this means upgrades. For the Lupo - I have fitted gaskets either side of the inlet heat isolation gasket, started it a few times to move it out and back into the garage, the check engine light has not come back (yet! fingers crossed). Currently in Glasgow - looking out on the regular wet Scottish summer, and as a random aside on Tuesday I saw a Seagull eating a pigeon in George Square! For the welding - I will need dry weekend to drag the Lupo out and pull off the patch to see how far the rot had got. The welder I have been lent has 0.8mm wire, with the panels 1.2mm thick, any advice if that will work? Its a Clark welder with very few settings, but does have gas - I'm thinking I may need to get my hands on 0.6mm wire and nozzle, and Argon mix gas to help stop blowing holes

Good work on your rusty nuts I missed Volksfling this year - if it was like last year the car park has more interesting stuff than in the show it self. For me its a nice drive down the A701 and home via Peebles.

How about Water-less coolant? - doesn't expand, probably be able to get away with a smaller (read lighter) rad fan https://www.evanscoolant.com/how-it-works/ And rain-x anti mist works pretty well

Just fixed this:

Only complaint about mine was the lack of rustproofing of the mounting hardware, ARB itself was quite crusty - if you can hold off to get some paint or better powder coat - it should stay presentable a lot longer. When I took mine off 2 of the nuts sheared the beam U bolt - I replaced those with stainless BTW - Looking really good on the RC's