I can only guess that an inaccurate temperature reading (below that of the actual coolant temp) may cause the ECU to switch to a higher fuel-to-air ratio when not necessary... This may have a similar effect to the throttle sticking open and then snapping shut after a split second delay ( I may be waaaaay off here 😬).
I'm pretty sure I read that thread some time back, but wasn't sure it would be straightforward to get to. Will look for a guide (with images still working) on how to get to & clean the TB at some point... 🤞
Must also remember to put the injector fuel treatment I bought ages ago (Wynn's IIRC) in the car, for when I run low on petrol and fill up the next time.
And yes, you've reminded me to add that disconnecting & reconnecting the battery after changing the CTS also seems to make a difference - maybe because it clears existing codes or resets something in the ECU perhaps? 🤷♂️ I say this because I left something plugged into the 12v ashtray socket over a weekend (after having changed the sensor) causing a flat battery - after a jump start, the car immediately seemed to have a noticeable improvement in overall engine performance/smoothness.