CasperGTI

IMO, you could go to 180bhp on standard internals with forced induction, provided exhaust temperatures were watched. The AVY head will be pants for high revs, although they were used in the cup cars but had a large amount of work done to them. The roller rocker arrangement isn't designed for it TBH. The problem with cams is the inlet cam and it's stupid advance switch, from what I've herd cat cams have failed so far to produce a cam that's worked, and I think I've only herd of a few with schrick cams fitted. There are off the shelf forged wossner pistons for the ARC engine which is the same bore size, and they drop the compression to 8.5:1 but I don't know of anyone that's fitted them to an AVY. Rods... Well I spent £1100 on mine but there overkill, they will still be in one bit when the engine disintegrates around it. You could get a set for a lot less. There is another option... Getting 1.8T pistons? I looked at this, they would need bushing for the difference in piston pin size but it could work. John

I love the way this whole argument was started with a reaction to a joke about raven blue cars made by silver, i think vince had a little bit of a sense of humour failure. Now lets keep it clean again, as we all know neither red, silver or blue is the right colour to have... it is black John

You want mine?? I don't need it. I guess your on about the potentiometer that connects to the top of the pedal inside the car?

Thats the same port shape that i have, you can port match it but i don't know what it does to the airflow entering the engine.

I was about to say, check the wiring loom on the front of the engine/ gearbox where the lambda and alternator wiring goes, looks like a snapped wire.

I haven't yet seen a inlet manifold with the cloverleaf port inlet the GTi head has, i have a dblias one and have had to port match it for my plenum. or does the chadil one have it?

I have a set of brackets for 996 brembos, had them made though to run in a 280mm disc though. Be careful which calipers you buy, there is two different types on the Boxter s rear calipers that you need. One set won't work. John

I'd just get a removable cat pipe built in to the system. that way you can bolt in whatever you like.

Fan switch on the radiator passenger side. that's what switches it on. Iirc it's at 97 degrees.

Is it a PD 150 engine?

oil pressure switch, thats what makes your oil light come on on the dash

Got rid of can bus today finally! And the airbag loom is gone. Im trying to work out what functionality won't work with no can bus... Its plugged in to the convenience module, airbag controller, immobiliser, clocks and the ECU. Now all i need from all of the above it the immobiliser and convenience module for the central locking and the windows... The immobiliser is already programmed to my key and it has separate wiring to energise the fuel pump relay, I'm really hoping that its still gonna work, or i might have to look in to bypassing it..... or cutting it out! John

Im waiting for the turbo questions..... The hardest part of the wiring is still to come, ive traced all the wiring back to in to the plug disconnects where the fuse box is, but i need to go from the plugs to inside the car via the fuse box.... which will be interesting i think. Also i need to remove all the wiring from the clocks i don't need any more, and work out what each wire does to see what i need to transfer from this loom to the digital dash loom, for things like the fuel gauge, alternator, lights etc etc... John

So.... The first update! Spent the afternoon completely deleting the OEM ecu from the engine bay, all the wiring that remains is for the lights and wipers/washers. Im going to re route all this through the chassis legs of course. Doors are off, and as you can see ive been keeping the interior up to its usual standard! Trial fitting of the rotrex, its about the same size as an alternator, the compressor housing will be zircotec coated, as will the exhaust and a new heat shield will be made. Im also going to get a new slam panel once I'm happy with how the rotrex sits in the bay with the brackets i need to make. I need to make up a 90 degree reducer which will them match up with my existing pipework. Hopefully ill be ready to get the engine out some time in the next few weeks, gotta get the ball rolling again with this. John

Iirc the ABS and airbag lights will come on if the battery is below 11v. We have seen before that a faulty convenience module was causing battery drain. I have a whole ABS pump and Ecu sat in my garage if it comes to it. John

Thanks..... Anyhow, the trailer is booked and the lupo is moving to its new home tomorrow! Look forward to getting some updates going.... theres going to be plenty of them! John

The main concern with where the charger is placed is heat soak. The charger on the mini runs at about 80 degrees case temperature, on mine under hard load on the rollers i was seeing close to 120 degrees! bearing in mind the EGT was about 700c. If you coated the charger it would stop the heat soak to it, which is the killer, i personally don't think it will cause too much of a problem regarding temperature created by it operating as you have a good flow of cooling air passing through it. John

Zircotec coating on the supercharger would be pretty difficult to do though, as it's plasma sprayed iirc, the casing of the charger is a crap aluminium alloy so it could distort. It would help, quite alot, as would doIng it on the manifold. Tbh if it's run in a recirc fashion, then heat won't be such a problem. You could use a water jacket like I did also.

Yeah i had heat issues, the problem with the eaton is sit sits very close to the exhaust. I was using a different set up to others, i was using no recirc and i was spinning it a lot faster - needless to say my way probably wasn't the best for my positioning. If you use a recirc valve it will manage heat better as it always has airflow going through it. and focus on getting the charger as far away from the exhaust as possible it will last for ages. On the standard pulley you should see about 8psi of boost with no problems. Standard internals will handle that id think. The rotrex will make a different sound all together, more turbo spooling noise with the sort of chatter as you get from a G60 charger, oh and 19 psi of boost!

Yeah it could do, but iirc there's only 8mm between the piston walls. I mean that's more than some, I was told the VTS engine is only 6mm.

Aye have a look through the thread, plenty of info in there. Any questions, just ask.... but please think about it before asking. John

Yes i do have an old charger... But it's not in a usable state

Aye it is sadly. Will be starting on it again soon though, just waiting for the weather to clear up a bit to get it on the trailer over to the house. Taken a bit longer than expected, wanted it over in January but hey ho John

Timing is out maybe? I take it you removed the cam belt. And you defiantly got the plugs on the coil pack in the right order??,

Honestly mate that cam must be made wrong. After they bodged a tool together you alarm bells were ringing for me. I take it your going through kam racing?