CasperGTI
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Posts posted by CasperGTI
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I have to say ive not looked back.... But the legend of the lupo (well the money from breaking it in to small pieces) lives on!
Still playing with silly cars, with stupid power. Love it, would recommend this to anyone over the "scene"
Little bit of fun at the rolling road power is at the rear wheels, dropped it a little as running too lean on higher boost. need more injector cc's:
http://s42.photobucket.com/user/pikeypiles69/media/MK/IMG_0159_zps2a503f3c.mp4.html
Car weighs 560kg.... so thats 737 bhp/tonne!
And on track:
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I don't come on here much, but when i do i always look out for a build thread about my engine!
Im happy to finally see a thread. After all the conversations we had about it I'm glad to finally see it showing its face.
Looking forward to seeing the re incarnation.
To be honest, you took two of the best GTi's around at that time, and have brought them together..... (IMHO anyway, but i may be biased
)Good luck with the rest of the build.
John
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Ok i have a few questions and a few observations if you dont mind, and im not trying to be critical because im being difficult, but more because id like to see someone actually succeed!
Sport cams - why? the duration doesn't really match the application of a turbo car, the cam comes in higher up the rev range, you would have been better off with the originals IMHO.
Fuel pump - A standard GTI fuel pump provides up to 5 bar of pressure and will flow @4 bar using 480cc injectors with 80% duty. i doubt you will need bigger than that! and the TT injectors wont fit your fuel rail unless you space it due to there extended length IIRC.
What sealant did you use between the decomp plate and the rocker cover? please tell me you didnt use a second head gasket!
Turbo - where have you seen a turbo car with it sitting at an angle? You will get oil starvation towards the front of the turbo, or more importantly oil blowing past the rear seal, and you will get a rather smokey engine as oil pressure increases.
What engine management are you using?
Stage 2 race clutch?..... are you making this up as you go along? No reputable "race" drivetrain component manufacturer would ever put a sticky label on the friction material It would just contaminate it. - It looks like an eBay special.
Below is a picture of a lupo fast road clutch made by helix autosport. Do you notice the difference?
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Hes talking about boost control against throttle angle, turbo engines use it because they can utilise the waste gate to control the boost, it can be mapped against throttle angle, this is to control the torque output of the engine at given throttle angles to make things more drivable.
But ive only seen it used on turbo cars and dont think it would work with a charger.
Mapping against throttle angle is all well and good but pressure differs with temperature leading to inconsistent power outputs, my preferred method would be manifold pressure using inlet temperature as an offset correlation.
Thats just me though, everyone probably has there own methods.
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baaaaaaaaaaaaah
Isnt that the noise sheep make?
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Keal,
If you have my manifold then thats great, as i had an adaptor fitted on the side to fit a WV EGT sensor in to one header which is great for mapping and preventing the engine melting, it can be used to retard the ignition when it reaches a certain temperature, believe it or not the highest prolonged temperatures are actually achieved when crusing at partial throttle due to a lean burn at this point for fuel economy.
Ive herd mixed reviews on zircotec coatings, but it will help in your case. But to what extent i dont know.
You can use a rotrex charger without a recirc valve if you wanted, they have been designed for this to be done, it makes a good chattering noise from what im told!
John
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The AVY and the ARC engine internals are the same, so yeah they will work.
John
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Wrong engine to start with. Ally block, cant even remove the crank without distorting it, Worst choice of base engine to start with IMHO.
Get a 100BHP engine or a cheap GTi lump and build it up.
John
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I do occasionally make an appearance.
Seems you have read in to it and understand what is needed, unlike most people on here that ask these sort of questions.
The main issue i had, and seems to be a common thing with the M45 charger is heat soak and intake temperatures. The reason i had this problem was because i used a raceland manifold where the other charged cars used a standard GTi manifold. The headers on the raceland come out of the manifold further before dropping down which brought the charger in close proximity with the manifold and transferred a hell of a lot of heat, you can only lift the charger up so far before it hits the underside of the bonnet.
This was one of the reasons why i destroyed 2 chargers, as the heat causes the charger vanes to expand. This then causes more heat due to the added friction and they expand again, and you basically get a thermal runaway, i snapped a snout shaft on one and killed a roller bearing set in the other. The other reason was i was trying to get as much boost as i could from it, so i had a small charger pulley. This also compounded the heat issues.
Make the intake snout for the charger as big as you can, IIRC we gas flowed my head after the headwork and calculated that the charger would need to flow over 600CFM at max rpm to get the boost levels i wanted so you need as much airflow as you can get as this is the top limit for the M45. That figure may be slightly wrong though as it was a while ago now and ive slept a few times since then.
I had a look at mounting the charger where you want to mount it, in the aircon mounting area and i didnt think it would fit because of the intake the the charger and the exhaust manifold, You may have found a way round that so go for it if you can fit it there. This is where i was going to mount the rotrex as it was alot smaller before i saw sence and sold up.
Dump valve question, personally i would use a Recirc valve. Do not under any circumstance not use anything as this will overheat the charger as you will be using it as a compressor when WOT and as a vacuum pump when its closed, It will destroy the charger eventually, and they were never designed to do this. The reason behind the Recirc valve is because you want to use the the M45 and it will be in close proximity to the exhaust you want to keep airflow going through it when you have closed throttle to keep cooling air running through the charger. A nice big port recirc valve located close to the inlet manifold after the intercooler ported back in to the intake side of the charger will be ideal to keep temps down.
I do not know of any other GTi engine that has used an M45 and made over 200bhp, i know it was said that AndyP's made it but im 100% sure it didnt, as it never went on to a standalone ECU, and from what i remember was only running 4-6psi of boost and does not have forged internals nor a decompression plate so in that set up could never make that sort of power. We know of a french guy that melted a standard set of pistons at 7psi with 180bhp.
So the choice would be with you on that one. There are forged sets available off the shelf for the ARC engine which is the same dimensions as the AVY engine, but they have quite a big compression drop on them IIRC, around 8:1 so you will want alot of boost on them! - I ran 8.5:1 IIRC
John
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Ill reiterate for you, been there and done this with the 1.6 engine.
You wont even make it on to the road with an standard internal set with 1 Bar boost. It will blow up on the rollers, it will take an edge off the standard piston in no time and wipe out the rest of the engine.
With a CR of 8.5:1 and 15psi of boost you will be looking at on boost CR of about 17:1 which is too high for standard pistons. On forged you will be ok but you will need EGT monitoring to get the correct advance to aviod melting anything.
I saw this happen on a gti engine with 7psi and 9:1 CR. French guy on here tried it with a supercharger conversion. Didnt last very long before it gave up.
Also, what angle is the turbo sitting at? Will that not cause oil starvation issues to the front bearing?
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If you put a hairdryer on cold mode directly on to the throttle body, wired directly to the alternator it will be rapid
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Ive just seen the rotrex in your sig picture, this will be awesome, which one did you go with in the end?
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Iirc I bought the 50 roll and I had enough to repair bits over time, it is horrible stuff to work with, was itching for weeks
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You are compressing and turning at the same time aren't you? they don't just rotate and wind in you have to compress and turn.
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Was going to say bent con rod.
Something has to give when you try to compress water sadly.
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whats your oil level like?
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i remember you showing me photos of the mounts about a year ago. good to see your still moving long with it and havent given up!
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Are they mechanical deisel pumps on them? Or have a fuel distribution manifold that's timed off an engine belt? Almost sounds like the timing is out
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I did this once on my 306 diesel. I went through a ford, forgetting the air filter is at the bottom of the car, I never found much water in the intake system either. But the engine was full.
I took the glow plugs out, put it in gear and pushed it down a hill. It was like a scene from fantasia!
Glow plugs back in and started first time. I loved that car, it was indestructible!
Jihn
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You've either damaged an Injector by hydro locking the **** out of the engine, or knocked the timing out by trying to turn over a hydro locked engine at speed.
When you flood an engine, the worst thing you can do is try and turn it over, water doesn't compress like air does. It will cause some damage somewhere.
You should remove the glow plugs before doing anything like that to allow the water to escape without damaging something.
Check your timing, and then check all your injectors, also check to see if your actually running on all cylinders, you could have killed a glow plug and one cylinder isn't actually working.
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This is not a charity..... Lol
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I'm getting a hold of CasperGTI's boot with Mk5 boot handle on it at the end of the month, exciting times!
Here's a picture of the boot on his car:
Are you?..... Still not paid for it....
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Check that you haven't got an air leak between the manifold and the head, also check the gasket under the TB itself. Air leaks can result in hunting idles too.
Casper's Supercharged GTi - MK Indy Hayabusa Turbo - 413bhp/243ftlb
in Member's Cars
Posted
This year it didnt get back on the road until May as i took on too much over the winter and it took far longer than i expected to get it rebuilt! transformed the way it looks, handles and performs though so I'm really happy with the changes ive made to it.
I use it enough, but mainly its for track. Great for the odd country lane blast, but lets face it i will either A- Die, or B- Loose my licence eventually.
Saying that, have still managed 5 track days and competed in a few sprints which is fairly good considering, and another 800 miles on road.
Weather or not i change it next year i still haven't decided, i want to start racing in RGB with a couple of my friends who are already racing in this series, again another endless money pit!
John