Mobieus_uk

google search come up with a nice thread on this forum about a 1.8T look like a good read

doubt the engine would cope even if it was possible, as already said just buy a TDI

Dropped of at Pirtec, they are gonna have a go at either remaking the whole lot or replacing the leaking section, the problem is that when the pipe was originally manufactured they must have crimped the hoses before they put all the bends in so as it stands it wont fit in the crimping machine but they seem to know their stuff

front does look high, but the angle of the photo doesnt help, I would check the rear beam make sure the bushes havent collapsed

cambelt and water pump will not go anyware towards fixing the oil leak so would forget about that until the leak is fixed, unless its a confirmed head gasket then it may be worth doing as cam belt will need removing to do the head gasket, there are tests the garage can do to check for this instead of guessing can you see where the leak is coming from or is the engine burning oil?, modern oils dont smoke like the old days so you can burn oil and still not have a smokey car sump gasket would have though would be a easy job to be fair if the sump gasket is leaking or the head gasket is leaking the garage should be able to tell you which engine oil breathers will always look wet from oil vapour if you want rid of the car there is a site where you have the option to auction the car and maybe get more https://www.removemycar.co.uk/

well that was fun, battery and base removed, washer bottle fixings undone, a few plugs undone low pressure pipe come out fairly easily but the high pressure was a pig

a quick google show the MM code as a means of valuation for the car maybe here will help https://www.transunion.co.za/product/vehicle-valuations

as a rule i tend not to ring numbers posted on the internet, guess he can just pop back

any tips to getting the hose out, had a play tonight a prooved i can undo the pump end remove fitting and refit again, the back connection is much easier to get to, removing the pipe completly looks like fun, anything i need to move out of the way first to make it easier?

eurocar parts shows the starter motor as the same part number based on each car being a 1.4 and 2002 model

easier said than done, waiting to hear back from a breakers network, failing that ill remove it an look a getting the hose and joint relaced by a hydraulics specialist, all depends on cost

I'm considering the possibility of deleting the power steering setup, has anyone done this before, apparently it will squeeze a few more mpg a quick check shows a can keep the rack just drain the oil and cover the connections, then its a case of remove the pump and source a shorter auxillary belt, should be simple enough, I need a backup plan as the hoses are tough to source, other option is remove hose and take to a hydraulic specialist and have the connections remade

printed off as think i need to remove bumper soon

look like the powered steering hose has sprung a leak, whats the done thing, cut it all back and reconnect with jubilee clips and high pressure hose or replace the whole hose, it look like one big piece with no connections other than connecting to the pump and im guessing the steering rack

Nice easy litte job on the polo, took out cluster and found at least 6 dry soldered joints on the back of the plug, resoldered and all looking good now before and after pictures, for those that dont know what a dry joint looks like if you zoom into the first picture when you can see a black ring around a pin that is a fracture in the solder

what's stopping you taking turbo off yourself and sending it in for refurbishment if you have found a place that can rebuild it

has the car got a duel mass flywheel, if so it may be knackered and causing vibration as may be out of balance, only way to know is gearbox off, clutch off and inspect all the bits as you go

a quick google suggest poor connections on the wiring, check battery connection and clean up any earth connections as they can give all sorts of problems aslso have you done any works to the brakes like disconnect any sensors?

Try searching ebay for 'fox to iso adaptor',once you have iso standard plugs you will find adaptors to suit your radio I think canbus is a networking protocol so devices in your car can talk to each other, ie colum controls to radio or immobiliser to instument cluster, I dont think they are used to provide the basic power

any new on this yet, always nice to know if you have solved the problem.

go to a price comparison website like money supermarket, theres not such thing as cheap insurance for 17years olds, they are all out to screw you over than there is nothin you can do about it, currently there is a petition out so the government can look at this as restrict what companies charge just re-insured a lupo sdi with 1 years no claims for a 18year old and was still over a grand, they use the following excuses 2 things that make a difference is what you do for a living and were you live, dental hygenist for some reason get cheaper insurance than anyone else

if its anything like a polo then its defo a bumper off job

when you have the sender unit out from the tank did you move the float and see it the gauge reacted, have you considered a poor connection either on the tank or at the back of the instrument cluster

check for oil in the intercooler if it has one or oil in the air inlet manifolds, its not uncommon to see it looking oily there there are issues if you can get a cupfull out of it, white smoke is possibly unburnt diesal vapour, if the turbo is failing then your getting less air into engine resulting in overfueling, sometimes it can get really bad and start knocking sounding like big end bearings have gone to cheer you up heres my turbo, or whats left of it from a 1.9 polo

radios are normally fed by 2 circuits, one is permantly connected other is fed by the ignition, yours are most likely the wrong way round this happened in my lupo as VW dont seem to want to follow the conventional setups, the easiest solution i found was to swap the connections around in your adaptor plug, its easily done by sticking a small screwdriver into the back of one of the wires and you should be able to release the taps pop the connectors out and swap there positons, or cut the wires and swap them around easy fix yellow should be the permanent 12v and red should be the ignition live, black goes to chassis acording to the below