rooco

Cheers Sausage, that's really useful, yes I do have a good multimeter

I have only ever had one replaced in 10 yrs, so maybe. But I wanted to see if anyone else had experienced the same issues rather than replacing parts as a trial and see

Afternoon I have had my '52 Yellow Lupo Sport for approx. 10 yrs and now on 68k. I have always maintained, servicing, rust, etc apart from cambelts every 4-5yrs and new clutch and pedal box about 3 yrs ago all which the local garage did. For the last 3 yrs it has struggled to get through the emissions at MOT time. As the garage know me they have been really good and persevered getting the engine really hot, and it then passes ! When it is really hot it sails through the emissions. I have always periodically thoroughly cleaned the throttle body / airbox and it runs on NGK plugs. Occasionally the check engine light comes on and I either have to thrash it up to work on Shell V-Power or BP Optimax garage 60 miles on the motorway or stick some Catclean through it on 1/4 tank, sometimes I just clear the fault code and it's fine. The garage thought that it might be due to an exhaust leak where the middle section meets the backbox and don't think that it is that To try and avoid the same issue this year does anyone have any ideas what the cause could be ? Many thanks

For the price of the Scorpion it's worth considering getting one hand made. I got my Scirocco one built by Longlife in stainless for around £300, with lifetime guarantee

Dead easy and only takes a few mintues. The arrow on the old and new filter show the direction of the flow of fuel to help with getting the replacement the right way around. Remember to have a pot to hand to collect the fuel from the filter and lines, and at the price of fuel it's worth putting it back in the tank !

I must have been pulled over a hundred times in my 25 + years of driving (I had rally prepared Mk1 Escorts when I started driving - very noisy!), although not for a long time, as I'm an old git now. I have four rules 1. never admit to anything, 2. only answer specific questions with yes and no answers, i.e. don't give them too much information, 3. be polite 4. get out of the car and stand on the pavement waiting (takes their mind off looking too closely at the car, although I've never had a problem) and getting on with the reason they actually stopped you (speeding, power sliding around roundabouts and hand brake turns, usually! - those were the days !) He was just trying to aggravate you !

I didn't need to remove the caliper or discs, it was a pain, but not too bad. Disconnect the wires first,smash the old sensor off, then you may have to get a drill bit a simular size to the hole in which the sensor goes into and knock the remaining old sensor out. Then I had to file and clean the hole to insert the new sensor with a little copper ease, as it's very tight. I think the last one took about 15 mins, after the wheel was removed. I got the sensor from Europarts, they do a couple of different ones, I got the cheapest and they have been fine.

I bought my sport to replace my modded scirocco as a sensible, newer, more reliable and safer car with a view of keeping it that way. I resisted for a couple of years and the front brakes needed replacing, and rather than just throw on standard, I couldn't help myself. Now I have grooved discs, yellow stuff pads, goodridge hoses and 5.1 fluid. Start of a long road to no recovery !!!

I find it quite hard to provoke the Sport, it just seems to roll a bit too much on the softer suspension. My Mum had a MkII 1.1 Fiesta years ago, and that was easy to get sideways. I had a scirocco prevously with KW coilovers, poly bushes and uprated arbs and that was really hard to unsettle, good fun trying though !

Do you have clearance between the wheel and caliper ? The wheel isn't stuck on the caliper and caliper impeeding the abs sensor somehow is it ?? As above, can't see how the wheel would be stuck if you had just put it on, and it's connection with the abs light ? Trapped abs wire ?

On a Sport I understand that there are two one on the inlet manifold and one after the cat (that might be just before the cat, can't quite remember), however I had to replace the cat one last year and I think the manifold one is on it's way, need to check Vagcom. GSF and Europarts both sell them, worth checking the cost with both, either will be cheaper than the stealers

I recently changed the discs and pads on my Sport ! I too removed the screw, which was a bit of a pig, and the disc was solid. Having removed the calipers from the carriers I then tapped the top of the facing of the disc with a rubber hammer, or you could use a block of wood and any hammer. The disc should just pop off then. Before you put the new disc on, clean the hub and put a dab of copper ease, just incase you need to remove at a latter date. Also remember to clean the caliper sliding bolts and where the pads slide on the caliper, just helps stop the pads and caplipers sticking ! Hope I'm not teaching you to suck eggs ! I found out the hard way years ago that it is best not to damage anything you take off, because you may have to put it back on, if you suddenly discover that you have been provided the wrong parts !

As per the title, does anyone know what the engine code for a 2002 Lupo Sport might be ? cheers

I have a pair of Midilite calipers sitting in my garage if anyone is interested and would like to make a offer. I removed them from my old Scirocco when I was breaking it, unfortunately the pikey's removed it before I had time to remove the discs and brackets. They have done less than 300 miles and come with braided hoses and pads !

Hi Foxy Very interested in your Wilwood conversion as I have a set of Midilites in my shed which I purchased from Rally design a few years ago for my old Scirocco. Anyway did you get the mounting brackets with your kit, if so can you tell me the code so I can see whether they are the same as the brackets I have, if not all I'll need is new brackets and discs. You have inspired me fit the Wilwoods to the Sport. What pads do you have ? I found that the options were quite limited for the Midilites. As mentioned previously do watch the bleed nipples I've had to replace a few as they are very soft and break easierly, I have a few spare, just in case. Fantastic car, I bet it handles and brakes amazingly !! keep up the good work cheers

Cheers John, good news on the discs, should only take a few minutes a side with the gun. Thanks for the heads up on the vent tubes, it has been since the winter started, I would never have thought of that

I need to replace the front discs on my Lupo Sport, I was looking for a how too guide without luck. I haven't done this on the loop before, are the bearings in the disc or the hub ? If in the disc, I will buy new bearings at the same time and it will obviously take longer to do and be more fidderly ! Also, lately when filling up with petrol the pump handle clicks off constantly, like the tank is full. I have tried various petrol stations and directions for the nossal (sp)but no luck. I've looked down the filler neck and there is nothing in the way, or blockages, anyone have any ideas ? It didn't use to do it, only over the last couple of months ! cheers

I haven't had any problems, and I have sandstone. Cheers cafcross, that's the ratio I've been using and it doesn't seem to be shifting much dirt and appears to run off like water within seconds and not slowly, pulling the dirt off, like it should.

I've got Bilt Hamber Autofoam with the Elite lance and I've never been to sure what the ratio should be, water v foam. I understand warm water is best, but I have also heard that using too much foam in the ratio can strip wax. I might be reading too many stories on the web !

CasperGTi, I'm slightly puzzled by your rear box arrangement and exit, as you appear to have two silencers next to each other in the last photo feeding into the exit pipe ? Also what system is it, I presume bespoke (Longlife, Pipex ?) and where did you get it fitted as it looks nice. Have you got a sport cat ? cheers

Cheers, I'll have a look

My passenger window won't go down from the drivers door switch, but goes up, which I presume is the switch. However from the passenger door switch the window only goes down 2/3 of the way. I presume either the mechanism is faulty, the window needs resetting somehow, or some sort of a child friendly activation has triggered ? Any ideas ?

Pull the centre heater knob off, it's usually very tight so I used a pair of pliers with a rag wrapped arround the teeth so not to mark the knob, then you need a piece of washer jet pipe to push down the centre hole to remove the bulb. The bulbs are pence at the stealers. Then as Haynes say, replacement is the reverse of removal, or something like that.

I think I've just discovered that I can get Ferodo DS2500 pads for my Sport. I say I think, because I've never replaced them, so can't confirm that they are correct. The part number is FCP1312H (quick code 87C56) via Motorsport World. If you can these pads are very good. I had them on my Scirocco before upgrading to Willwood 4 pots and had them on the Mini. Can anyone confirm to save me wiping out the pads ?

Yep Lupogtiboy that was me Cardraft, I've only managed to understeer the Passat a couple of times, but then the TC kicks in otherwise it's very good and I've never had a problem. The 130 is a surprisingly rapid car ! I don't know what they mean about the chassis not copeing, as you can get the V6 161-178bhp TDI. Although the Passats' the wife's car and I always drive sensibly !!