Sausage

Dunno, but heres a new one that will give you part numbers for comparison. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Genuine-OEM-VW-Polo-Lupo-1-7-1-7-SDI-Diesel-Fuel-Injection-Pump-/300546758691?hash=item45f9fb9823 As said, you seem very certain your pump timing isnt working properly, what makes you so sure? Changing a pump would be very far down the list of things to check off.

Also, too many fonts. I think it's too long, there's an old cigar add campaign for Hamlet, with the end line of "happiness is a cigar called Hamlet". Plenty of the old ads on youtube. "Happiness is a car called Lupo" is much shorter and will bring that ad campaign to mind for anyone over 40. (like me).

Make sure it's well chocked on the other wheels and handbrake on too!

Pics or it didnt happen....

Polo has rod change lupo has cable. Polo box main differences are: There are two mounting lugs for the cable change mechanism not on the polo box.you need to fabricate some mountings. The selector shaft is about 20mm longer The selector shaft has no spring assist to centre (left right at neutral) The speedo connector The reverse connector I have just fitted a cheap polo box into lupo 1.0. I was going to swap the clutch cover over from lupo box to give the two mountings but that meant changing all the bearing races across and shimming endfloat issues so i decided to make some brackets instead and use the whole polo box. So I made mounting brackets for the cable mech, swapped selector shaft and matching indent ball thingy, swapped speedo connector and reverse gear switch. I only swapped selector shaft as i had already opened the box to swap clutch covers and replace a bearing. if i hadnt opened it, i would have shortened the end of the polo selector shaft instead.

I think it having to be full lock steering before clunking is trying to tell you something. I dont think that is the diff. You can eliminate the steering input as a cause by doing the one wheel in the air thing i said previously (you have two threads on this) To eliminate the steering input: jack one wheel off the ground by about 1 inch so if it comes off the jack it doesnt have far to fall. Drive it in 1st gear above idle. The diff is now driving one wheel and is behaving as if on full lock internally, your steering input now should be having no effect on the diff. You can stress the diff, cv joints and suspension of the driven wheel by gently applying the brakes, if you over do this it will pull itself off the jack, but you'd have to be a complete numpty to do that! Repeat the other side. If you still only get your knocking on full lock when doing this it is not the diff itself that is the problem. if it doesnt happen under these circumstances, then the only thing changed is the ride height of the driven wheel in the air, stick a jack under the suspension arm and raise it to normal ride height while it is in the air. If it still, doesnt happen even doing that then only inertia and body roll are missing and you should have already checked that the drive shaft isnt hitting the chassis.

Anything if you have skills....

True but that is a pessimists view. Plus they would never be worth £0. Fit them yourself = no warranty LOL http://www.clubpolo.co.uk/forum/index.php?showtopic=322084 Actually thats pathetic as is the fact you need the receipt and still live at the same address when bought and have to return them in original packaging etc etc etc. Basically they have a very very limited warranty indeed. You'd probably have to get a garage to remove them too .... Brownbehr, I've seen em on ebay now and again, just keep looking and they will turn up.

maybe because once you open your box of £160 coilovers they are then worth £120, and should you decide to fit them, drive on the road for a couple of weeks and hate them they are worth £80. i know which i'd rather buy. i've got some £550 koni shocks on my TDI, i didnt pay for them they came free on it when i bought the car for £250. LOL

http://forums.clublupo.co.uk/index.php?/topic/93796-replacing-the-starter-motor/ Might just be the solenoid sticking, strip and clean might solve it, you can test it off the car. http://easyautodiagnostics.com/misc-index/starter-motor-bench-test-1 Edit, sorry that's a **** guide btw i just read it LOL Starter motor good, starter motor bad WTF? how about some better diagnostics than that? Sheesh But we assume you have checked the wiring on the starter before taking it out yes? Bench test it, Strip and clean the solenoid and make sure the pinion can move freely in and out.

I'm feeling lazy and cant be arsed to type all this out so here's an article on brake servos instead: http://www.ebay.co.uk/gds/How-to-Diagnose-a-Faulty-Brake-Booster-/10000000178571669/g.html http://www.newtonnet.co.uk/coupe/service/webtech/iindex.asp@id=12476 If you can hear a hissing noise it's probably a leaking vacuum hose, but the article says how to test your servo.

^^^ that ^^^

Lupo dont have a relay for starting apparently sorry. So ignition switch would be on the list too. Forgot: does it have any fault codes?

Nice the wheels though.. meh the red lupo..

No, think the SDI is an 085 box with long ratios. if yours has a cable clutch it is. DXQ, DED, FFV, ETF, FDQ are diesel box codes.

Check the connections to the starter motor. It could be the brushes in the starter motor are worn out, tapping it with a hammer might get it to work, but it needs brushes. But it should make a noise when the solenoid fires. It could be the relay for the starter motor. (does the relay click when turned to start?) Relay can be opened and contacts cleaned, but replacement is best. if it's automatic then it could be thinking it's in gear or brake needs pressing before allowing starter. When it works does it sound normal or noisy?

well either do it properly so the wheels mount hubcentric and the wheels retain value or if you arent bothered about hubcentric then get spacers to clear the 57.1 hub, you get some spacers that can be reused and the wheels retain their value. messing with the wheels makes them effectively worthless unless done with some care and thought. Given your lack of router I'd go for the spacers and clear the hub and leave the wheels alone.

either bore the wheels out as they are cheap mazda items, you could take it to an engineering shop but the wheels may not be worth the money or you could do it yourself with a router most likely (google and read up on doing that). Or you get some non hubcentric spacers wide enough to clear the vw hub centre on the wheel, but then you are relying on the studs to centre the wheels. Or you get some hubcentric VW spacers and get the wheel mounting centre on them machined down to 54.1mm to take the mazda wheels. Personally I'd router the wheels, because i have a router and want to try doing it on some cheap wheels LOL.

my 1.0 lupo is missing the plate on the bottom of the flywheel and the sump looks easy to get off without it there. it also makes turning the flywheel an easy job too.

what engine? But generally speaking if you are on your own and trying to line something up with fine adjustment then you need to turn it with a large flat blade screwdriver on the flywheel ring gear, best done in neutral.

02J gearbox was in the golf among others i think, so not at all specific to Lupo. Check codes for gear ratios etc though.

Well the manual always shows the special tools as it's VW. You just have to improvise.

One way they make a noise is if it has a largish block pattern they can feather with one edge worn much more than the other so you end up with a drumming noise.

And your 10th screen confirms they are weak LOL

Suck em and see. A good rule of thumb is that you need at least 8 full turns of thread in the hubs, so poke one thru the wheel and see how much thread sticks out the back. It will need to have more than that poking out as the thread in the hubs may start a couple of mm in. or fit one and count the turns.