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Sausage

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Everything posted by Sausage

  1. Your photos arent clear enough, use macro mode for close ups.
  2. http://forums.clublupo.co.uk/index.php?/topic/33400-the-definitive-pedal-box-thread/ http://forums.clublupo.co.uk/index.php?/topic/41812-the-definitive-gearbox-thread/ Your clutch cable problems might be the pedal box or it could just be the cable is about to die. if it is the cable that is easy enough to change. With difficult gears and now some whining then 1st thing is to check the gearbox oil level and condition. Personally i'd drain it and see what condition and quantity of oil comes out. The drain and fill plugs can be stupidly tight so use a good tool and take the precaution of undoing the fill plug 1st because if you cant undo the fill plug then you still have a drivable car.
  3. Sooo, absolutely nothing to do with tyre stretch then? Side walls just cant take running any neg camber at all? All those failures are purely down to running negative camber and would have happened exactly the same had they not been running stretched side walls?
  4. Approx: Mk1 xr2 = 102 bhp per tonne mk2 xr2 = 114 bhp per tonne Lupo GTI = 128bhp per tonne Cavalier SRI 130 mk2 = 122 bhp per tonne Cavalier SRI 130 mk3 = 113 bhp per tonne My Mondeo estate 155bhp = 100 bhp per tonne My mapped 105 bhp lupo tdi = 100 bhp per tonne I wouldnt trust a learner in my lupo, the torque and power delivery is quite sudden and it is noticeably faster than the mondeo even though they should be similar on paper and puts a smile on my face as it is.
  5. it wasnt doing this before changing suspension over we assume? Any powerful FWD car will deliver some torque steer on hard acceleration though, but this is suddenly very obvious after the suspension changes? Was anything else changed or done at the same time as the coilovers?
  6. What about the 2nd one? or how about these then?: Notice a trend? http://honda-tech.com/wheel-tire-56/why-you-dont-stretch-tires-2890360/ It's a fashion phase, it will (it has) become boring and will swing back the other way again.
  7. If the stalk seems slack and a bit hit and miss working the wipers then start there. If it seems good you'll have to pop the boot cover off and have a rummage around looking for anything obvious wrong with the wires to / from the wiper motor, there's also the rubber boots near the hinges where the wires flex that can be worth a look but that's usually for broken wires, yours sounds like a short.
  8. To be fair that 1st pic is what running excessive neg camber and stretch leads to. He's been running the inner side wall on the ground for quite some time and it didnt like it one little bit. It is plainly a dumb thing to do on the road.
  9. Sigh. The only contact your car has with the road is the tyres (unless you stick it on it's side or roll it obviously). That tends to make your tyres rather important safety items. Tyres are designed to operate safely and efficiently within certain conditions such as pressure and heat. Part of the design is that tyre side walls operates within a temperature and pressure range and spends most of its time reasonably upright, among other things. The side walls of the tyre are what connects your tread to the wheel and are rather important parts of your rather important tyres. Operating your tyres in a way that flexes or stresses the tyre wall excessively will generate a lot of heat and that isnt good for your rather important side walls or for the tyre in general because it will lead to premature failure of the tyres structure. And as tyres are rather important for keeping your car on the road, tyre failure is not a good thing. If you have a puncture and the tyre is already stressed with stretch then it isnt going to behave as designed in those conditions and will probably come off the rim resulting in a much more dangerous incident than just a blow out at speed. Tyre manufacturers spend lots of money on R&D and destructive testing, they also tell you what size tyres for what size rims for pretty good reasons, safety being one of them. Another problem with excessive stretch is having the rim lip exposed. Imagine a scenario where you are driving like a numpty and find you have your inside wheels in the verge and it pulls you left onto the handy grass verge that just so happens not to to be festooned with trees, boulders or parked cars, your super duper driving skills will be to counter steer out of trouble yes? Great, but also being a numpty you over cook the correction and get a tank slapper going instead. You are now going sideways on the grass at 40 mph. Your exposed wheels lip is now your problem rather than making your car a wonder to look at it will insist on eating the dirt. Your tyre bursts as soon as the bead seal gets broken and that makes this 10x worse instantly as your wheel is now an anchor in the ground and momentum means the roll is inevitable, keep your arms inside the car please otherwise they get very badly mangled! At this speed you roll it several times and it is written off, your passengers wont be too thankful either and could be badly injured. You may rightly have detected some patronising sarcasm in there. http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f=23&t=507819&i=0 From that thread: What the tyre manufacturers say:Dunlop "RIM WIDTH Correct rim width ensures flex at the designed flex point in a tire sidewall for optimum tire performance.If the rim is too wide, the flex point moves towards the rim area, causing heat buildup in the lower sidewall, which reduces tire life and could result in failure. Either too narrow or too wide of a rim can result in uneven tread/pavement contact pressure causing uneven wear and potentially reduced traction, or increased vulnerability to bead dis-lodgement. "Toyo "Serious personal injury or death can result from failure to select the proper tire and rim: Tire MUST match the width and diameter requirements of the rim. YokohamaEach Yokohama tire has a specific rim width range on which the tire can be mounted. Failure to follow rim width recommendations may result in poor tire performance or possible wheel and/or tire failure.What the law says:1.Regarding wheel width, they must not protrude more than 30mm beyond the wheel arches. (Council Directive 78/549/EEC)2.Regarding the fitting of the tyre "Each tyre fitted to the vehicle shall be of a nominal size appropriate to the wheel to which it is fitted." Sec16(4 The Motor Vehicles (Approval) Regulations 2001'. The fact that the fit was outside manufacturers recommendations should be very persuasive to convince a court that the tyre was not fitted in a manner suitable to qualify it as 'approved'.3.Section 40A RTA 1988 states "A person is guilty of an offence if he uses, or causes or permits another to use, a motor vehicle or trailer on a road when...the condition of the motor vehicle...or of its accessories or equipment...is such that the use of the motor vehicle or trailer involves a danger of injury to any person." Evidence to support this offence would include measurements of your wheel and tyre, and statements from the manufacturer or a tyre expert, indicating the potential risk of fitting outside their recommended parameters, namely, overheating, grip loss, unpredictable performance and behaviour etc etc.4.If your vehicle was involved in a collision, especially one involving injury, where the cause led to the loss of control of your vehicle, dangerous driving may be considered, especially strengthened by Sec 2A(2) where "A person is also to be regarded as driving dangerously for the purposes of section 1 and 2 above if it would be obvious to a competent and careful driver that driving the vehicle in its current state would be dangerous."
  10. If the ignition key barrel seems sloppy or worn then defo start there. Start the car and then gently move the key around in the ignition and see if it cuts out, or else bang the steering wheel or column and see what it does. If you cant get it to cut out doing that then it's probably elsewhere, but defo sounds like an electrical fault.
  11. If this is any gear and when moving then it's probably the 085 chocolate box output shaft bearing as that is the weakest point in the box. or possibly diff. http://forums.clublupo.co.uk/index.php?/topic/41812-the-definitive-gearbox-thread/ Check the oil level, or better yet drain it and put new in and check for shiny particles in the old oil. Put slightly thicker oil in and squeeze in an extra 300ml if you can.
  12. Found this pic: The ring is obviously removable, so not much point paying a premium for one without the ring assuming they are otherwise the same.
  13. I might be losing my marbles as it was 6 months ago but i thought my tdi had taper bearings (split pin) and just found this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Golf-mk2-mk3-Polo-Passat-Ibiza-Lupo-Corrado-Caddy-Audi-80-REAR-WHEEL-BEARINGS-/230918710881?fits=Model%3ALupo&hash=item35c3d3e661:g:7-MAAOxyQ45RA-50 So i'd be inclined to remove a grease cap and see what nut you have in there before spending money.
  14. My bad, The info on the polo forum wasn't much help lol. I thought they had the same bearings and i think they thought that too when helping the guy with the lupo. You can get the bearings separate, but you'll need to be able to press them in and out that is reasonably easy on taper bearings, much less so on the others so for most people it is easier to buy the whole hub. I doubt the abs ring matters as it's probably removable or if not then as long as it isnt fouling anything.
  15. http://www.clubpolo.co.uk/forum/index.php?showtopic=135236 My kb is ****ed, too much effort to type lol
  16. The weak pump struggled with the cold diesel fuel then?
  17. If you are absolutely sure that they made no effort to contact you then your local paper may well be interested in this as a story. Nothing like embarrassment to make them see sense.
  18. If the alternator is working and delivering a steady charge to the battery, then the battery light should not be flickering. Have a close look at the fuse block connected to the + terminal on the battery, make sure the metal isnt cracked, flip it open and check the alternator connection and fuse, make sure it's tight and the fuse isnt cracked. Test for continuity back to the alternator and check the connections that end are good.
  19. Need a bit of careful sanding of the high bits and filling of the low bits as well, high build primer might be enough. if you can get a good colour match then you can just touch up that area and not have to do the whole wing.
  20. Was that a new or used alternator to replace your other one? Even new ones can be faulty btw. http://easyautodiagnostics.com/misc-index/how-to-test-a-bad-alternator-1 Check all the wiring and connections between the battery and alternator as well.
  21. The police should know where that pound is if the council arent forthcoming with the address. You could ring round the local recovery firms and see if they know where it is. I'm pretty sure they should have made efforts to contact you at the address held by dvla too, if they didnt then I'd think about reporting it as theft.
  22. £30 tax makes a big difference to price, probably about an extra £300 or more than those pre march 2001.
  23. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Clutch-Control-Switch-for-VOLKSWAGEN-Lupo-1-6-GTi-GTi-01-07-2005-Cambiare-/311329815125
  24. Do petrol lupos have the switch on the clutch pedal or is that just the diesels? Tells ecu clutch pedal pressed and adjusts revs accordingly, also for cruise control disengage if fitted. In vcds it can tell when you press the clutch in or out. Is this only when clutch pressed or also sitting revving engine and it is slow to drop revs?
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