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Sausage

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Everything posted by Sausage

  1. Probably not bent, i got a new wishone to go straight in it today when i was expecting it to be a pig if bent any, looks to have just moved it a bit but wont really know until i take it off and see it rocking on the floor from twist. i didnt have my phone with me so no pics, I think the wheels hit so I ripped his rear left suspension back.
  2. There could be a valve in the rack that is sticking, if the fluid is old and dirty try draining it and fresh stuff, or there are additives that might unstick it. Otherwise balljoint, strut top etc. Undo the steering ball joint and see if the strut all moves happy, then try it with a jack under the bottom balljoint to simulate some weight on it.
  3. notchy or consistent extra effort?
  4. It's CAT B, parts only and shell crushed, never to return to the road and DVLA will not issue docs on it. I didnt bother contesting that as it is quite bad on the corner and A pillar plus the VIN number disappeared down behind the dashboard so it wouldnt get another MOT without it anyway. Front subframe moved back about 10mm on front mounting bolt so probably bent, steering rack is fine it wouldnt move while unloading because the hub knuckle castor was at 90 degrees from normal and the wheel was jammed in the arch (it was outside the arch at the scene), track rod end thread was stretched and bent.
  5. Oh, why? I own it, I bought the salvage. Or do you mean some other reason? I've stripped the damaged corner and going to put a drive shaft, wishbone etc back on just to get it mobile again today.
  6. Red one needs the back seats and belts as it was used as a van, same red mouse seats too. What do you need
  7. Loads of bits for sale? Naw, every panel is damaged or marked up from the crash and stupid recovery / storage yard. I did get it delivered back to my drive next day by the insurance though when i was thinking i'd have to recover that home on my own time and money. But the nice bits remain except one front shock which got beat about quite hard (not burst as I initially thought, that was a loosened brake union on that caliper pouring brake fluid on the road, I thought it smelled and tasted like brake fluid but was a bit foggy with other things to sort out at the time). I'll try and shift an engine though as dont need 3 TDI engines and a gearbox or two. Engine, gearbox, suspension (if that beat up Koni looks worth saving) and stainless exhaust will go on the red one. I might stick the long ratio JDD in instead and flog on the LSD box though, not sure yet.
  8. Insurance and police are going after the skoda driver, he (or she) is local and on same insurance company as me. They will be recovering all costs from them. Footage in ghost car scenarios like this is vital to establish no fault (in my case). I got book value (£950ish) minus salvage (£86) and my £350 excess so £520ish to me now with possibility of getting the £350 in several months time when liability is finally established by the insurance companies, i might have to take that to court to get that though as i dont have legal cover. CAT B parts only. Shame about the 3 day old MOT eh.
  9. Footage here Bought the salvage and the best bits will live on in the red TDI which will now get a new lease of life. Be careful out there....
  10. Sausage

    Lupo 3L mapping

    When you get your boost working make sure your torque map is conservative, the 3L has preengagement on the clutch and it will slip way earlier than a manual converted 3L but 100HP should be no real problem from stock engine
  11. It's an old arosa not a GTI.
  12. Sausage

    Lupo 3L mapping

    Yes some need extra columns and rows, or you have to alter existing values instead: My boost target map (svbl limits it below 2.4 mind)
  13. £60 more like to patch that little corner. Rear beam looks crusty might want to prod and poke around a bit more before deciding what to do with it.
  14. Sausage

    Lupo 3L mapping

    I havnt looked at this stuff for ages but I'd recommend starting again on stock map as you have made lots of changes and are seeing no real results and messing with IQ requires calculations not just slapping numbers in or altering them by %. Your maps arent showing btw so cant look at them. You didnt mention SVBL or boost limit map which is likely why you arent seeing much difference, look at the main limiting maps and find the one with the lowest IQ or boost that is what is holding you back at that particular point. There is free power in the stock maps without touching SOI etc plus as said IQ needs to be calculated. There are some good guides about if you can find them.
  15. A complete 10x6 greenhouse including all the glass...
  16. Mole grips with a bit of copper padding will do it without messing up the shock under the arch between the spring coils. Or hammer a hex in there.
  17. Impact gun. Or if the strut is knackered some stilsons (pipe wrench) on the strut between the springs.
  18. Eibachs and Konis on mine very nice. Dont go for big heavy wheels they ruin the ride.
  19. No idea but at a guess i would say ecu is expecting a load that doesnt materialise or there is a problem with belts, pulley clutches or alternator. If aircon works, belts arent slipping, check out alternator is delivering correct volts.
  20. Mine also has remap and was doing on hills in 3rd or 4th, boost out of spec for more than x seconds = limp mode. I altered SVBL in map and adjusted driving style (dont hold pedal still while going up hill for more than a few seconds). Dirty maf makes it much more likely also, K&N filter had to go. Get codes read. You could also log the boost and see what it is doing actual vs requested. If yours is really only doing it in 5th gear at high revs then i would think something else is going on though...
  21. I havent changed one no, the whole kit inc the crank cog is expensive (febi 43667 kit about £150 cheapest) the chain itself can be had for £30 but new chain on old cogs isnt an especially clever plan. Simple enough to change but needs the balance shaft timed on the chain links. Pull the cover and have a good look. Any scraping on the cover, obvious chain wear or very worn guides would kick me into changing one.
  22. The chain drive is a stupid idea, but to be fair the AMF engine seems the best of the 3 pot variants for that point of failure, no idea why as the hardware is the same.
  23. Get fault codes read pref with vcds. Possibly a boost deviation and it goes into limp mode. Switching the ecu (ignition) off then on again resets it. You can do that driving along if you are careful. Mine used to do it stooging up a hill in 3rd or 4th. P1556 is the code. http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/17964/P1556/005462
  24. Very light oil if you use it, just make sure threads in the hole and on the studs are clean. Dont chuck lots of oil down the hole or you can get a false bottom and crack the hole with hydraulics.
  25. Sausage

    I'm stumped

    Broken spring, weak actuator?
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