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imaparana

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Everything posted by imaparana

  1. Just tried this, it’ll start and rev with the cam position and solonoid removed/disconnected
  2. I know this is a pretty old thread now. However im looking at doing an AFH/AVY hybrid at some point, will the AVY ecu not take a dump if the cam position sensor is removed?
  3. As mk2 said, this is probably the best way, i did this with my classic mini (probably a little more involved on the lupo) But put your switch somewhere hidden but also not a pain in the arse for you to get to when sitting in the car.
  4. youll have less grip at the front than the back. Also the rolling radius's are different so could play with your abs? if you can id put 205/45 on the front to
  5. the teamdynamics i run are 15x7 ET40, i ran them like this for years but after my first rally i had to roll the arches as had clearance issues with the arches. So probably would hold out for the ET40 unless you want to roll your arches a fair bit
  6. mine has always been like that when cold (moreso with a goosed lower engine mount)
  7. are there running issues or is it just throwing a code?
  8. id use as little lube as you can on this one, ive had one on my gti pop out. it does get abused though
  9. is it worth refitting the subframe while you weld the captive nut back on? just so its in a close to factory location?
  10. UPDATE: Noise has gone... I don't know what it was as it was there after i redid everything, but its gone. im not going to waste any more time on it as it runs fine. If it comes back i may investigate further. Thanks for all the input.
  11. The fan isn’t on when the noise is there unfortunately
  12. Indeed on both pulley, both times round. I rechecked after a few full rotations
  13. Here is a video (hopefully) I know the cam solonoid is disconnected, this was done to rule it out
  14. Good thinking on the belt I hadn’t considered that it gets tighter as everything expands, I’ve taken the whole lot apart again and done the rocker cover gasket to and have the exact same issue with the same symptoms (what a waste of a day), I even took the water pump out to make sure it looked and felt good. so yea all back together and same noise it goes away the minute you raise the revs, even by the tiniest amount ive tried the screw driver to ear trick with no luck stuck for ideas now, other than it being a bad part I’ve put on (pulleys,pump or belt). open to ideas
  15. cheers all for the comments and suggestions the noise happens before the fan comes on, (say 5degrees before) i dont think its cambelt related as it goes away when rev'd and only happens at temperature and goes away once the fan has cooled the engine down. As ive got all the time in the world because of this lockdown im going to tear it all down again and redo the job... will keep this updated thanks all
  16. Hi all, ive recently done the cam cover gasket, timing belt and water pump on my gti. all went fine and drives great still, however at idle above say 95degrees (on obd2 reader) there is a weird humming noise that comes on and off, when the fan kicks in and cools it down the noise goes away. at first I thought it may be vvt related but would do it with the plugs disconnected on the cam cover. its possible it’s always done it and never noticed it before. any ideas?
  17. i noticed your bolts swap orientation in the two pictures, did you make the same mistake as i did and found they hit the casing in one orientation?
  18. awesome cheers LR5V looks like this is the puppy N0145931 if im not mistaken
  19. Hi All, Im after an AFH head, ill take a whole engine but would need to be able to be shipped to Jersey. Let me know thanks
  20. These are the ball joints: 93-90973-156 & 93-90973-256, I ordered through autodoc.
  21. Not much up an update as i keep forgetting to take photos, but. The car is back from the body shop and all back together Got the aftermarket ball joists all fitted and seem like the right fit! ive made up a fibreglass bootlid with integrated boot hinge mounts which needs a lick of paint and will be able to be thrown on the car. I managed to get a Dbilas Dynamic intake manifold, which ive gold tape wrapped and fitted with a thermo spacer intake gasket to try and keep the intake temperatures down (the exhaust up to the 2nd cat has also had exhaust wrap on it). Ive had to re-route my induction kit also. The project silver top mounts id fitted developed a knock after the crash so i have reverted to standard for now. Polycarb windows are in also to replace the smashed ones. The tailgate window and right rear quarter window will need to be done after the next rally. Both seat mounts have had to be replaced as these got pretty bent up in the crash also. Next event is the Bovington stages at the end of the month so will update again after that.
  22. Ive had this recently, i reckon the small cable has become detached from the handle. There is a little grommet in the side of the door, take this off and there should be a torx head screw which holds in the lock, if you loosen this you should be able to pull the lock out and there you should be able to see that the cable isnt connected to the handle. Hopefully you can just pop it back in.
  23. i havnt replaced these before, just been on and off a fair few times now. I guess the previous owner could have had longer ones, will keep this updated
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