imaparana

Long overdue update! I sang the praises of epytec too soon! i got a new flywheel down which was still incorrectly machined. the friction surface was too small for the gti 220mm clutch. So if anyone ordered one be prepared to have it machined down. A few updates have happened since the last update: A new ebay afh manifold was fitted, as expected this too a fair bit of bending the clear the gti sump. This gave a few ft/lbs in the mid range of increase over the stock item I 3d printed a Carbon fibre Nylon inlet manifold for the ITBS, the alloy one purchased didnt have very smooth gas flow and pretty poor port matching. 3d printing one enabled me to port match it perfectly. Along with this i 3d printed some trumpets. This along gave a massive increase in power and torque. dyno runs showed a consistent 170-172bhp. This is for all intensive purposes a 10bhp upgrade from the manifold and trumpets alone. A very worthwhile exercise I dropped the 6 speed out to refresh it with new bearings and fitted a 4.53 final drive, at the same time fitted a helix sprung paddle clutch. the final drive made a nice difference, in hindsight a 5.08 final drive would be better for my application but is a fair chunk of change. For anyone wandering the helix clutch is still very driveable! SInce the last update we have done a few rallies down in the quarry. Car ran flawlessly for all events! We entered the 2021 L'etacq attack rally, coming 1st in class out of 5 and beat some very quick cars. The 2021 Jersey rally came around very quickly (8th & 9th) and although the car was thoroughly prepared we had multiple issues all weekend The first came on SS4, we were battling for 1st in class when we bent a lower arm which lost us a lot of him. this wasnt from hitting anything and we due to the amount of grip the tyres had on an off camber hairpin right. We were gutted as this pushed us right down the standings. This for swapped out at service and started the push to make up the lost time. The night stages came around and an electrical issue left us stranded on the side of a road section, luckily we managed to fix it with a pair of snips and duct tape! The Saturday went great until the penultimate stage (25 out of 26) where we sheared the stub on the RHS cv joint, this put us out of the rally as we lost all drive. upon inspection the cv joint fitted wasnt a JR cv joint, maybe this is why... Lessons learnt/to do: Lightly reinforce lower arms and dont buy cheap arms. there are reinforcement plates available for mk2 golf arms, ill do a similar exercise. however i don't want to make the arms so strong that the chassis is now the weak point Only use quality cv joints, a lad on the polo forums upgraded to r32 cv joints however this requires a full custom front suspension set up which is abit out of my skill set. Ill just use quality CV's from now on and inspect them once a year Here's some photos of whats happened since the last update (in no order)

Hallo, Does anyone know who the factory manufacturer was for the genuine CV joints? I snapped the splined stub on mine on the weekend (in a rally) and am wanting to replace with oem quality or better? anyone know of any upgraded joints? or a hub with bigger cv's that would fit without needing to change everything else Thaanks

i used autodoc when i rebuilt my AFH head, give them a try

shipping costs to and from jersey would end up costing a fair bit

yes replaced all bearings and seals and 5th gear syncro

I have just “rebuilt” my 6 speed as I changed the final drive ratio. it’s not as easy to do as a 5 speed and will cost more as there is no way around breaking the 5th gear synchro in the process of stripping the box. The synchro I think is 40 quid ish. Also new bolts are recommended as they are stretch items everything in the 5th/6th gear cover is press fit so a pig to get off the strip took me a good few hours and same with reassembly (mind you I did have to swap output shaft gears onto the new output shaft) £1000 sounds very steep for the job but it’s not as easy as doing a 5 speed box

cheers rich its the whole unit i need i believe, i dont think i can replace just the plastic lever

bump Anyone got one? or even a whole 6 speed box?

Hi all, The locking tab has snapped on my 6 speed, has anyone got a busted 6 speed they would break and remove the shift unit from? cheers nathan

ive bought one before, was abit of faf to get it to work, but in the end (with my version anyway) you get access to most vw's not just lupos

As per the title, does anyone have a 18mm front ARB they would sell and ship to jersey? Cheers, imaparana

a thin spanner was all ive ever needed, i cant remember the size but even a thin adjustable spanner will do the trick

id get back under and have a look, might be something metal on metal or loose

I run 14" e30 bottle tops with the stock brake set up on my GTI when using gravel tyres

I think most bog standard 16v in like the mk4 golf dont have VVC? Maybe the heads are different also, ports and valve sizes?

ive had a look at the superpro and they seem like they are similar however with a long sleeve though the middle rather than little washers. Just removed the smaller washers and gave me the adjustment back

UPDATE: it worked, the wheel is now central in the arch which alot more subframe play. Im not sure why the powerflex bushes come with these spacers but they massively limit the alignment range of the front subframe.

Cheers for the reply, will see how i go with removing the spacers, the super pro ones like they have a similar concept with the longer inner tube, r32 is an option, however not so easy to swap to a spare arm if one gets bent but will have a think, thinking abouT getting an alignment next week if I can sort the subframe out so will see

Hi all, It looks like im not the only one that has subframe/caster issues on oneside or the other. As previously mentioned on other topics, loosening the subframe bolts enables the subframe to be shifted about to align them. Ive tried this and havnt had too much luck. Im running powerflex bushes in my lower arms and remembered they have a washer/sleeve you insert above and below the rear bush into the subframe..... which thinking about it removes all adjustment for the subframe ? Ill give removing these washers a go on the weekend and see how i get on, attached are the powerflex instructions on this. For anyone with these issues and running powerflex this may be the issue. if anyone sees anything im missing please let me know. Lupo front rear bush powerflex.pdf

ive a similar problem in my gti, im putting it down tot he resistor in the fan as i cant hot wire it to come on slow. Fans are pretty pricey so i just wired it to come on at a low temp, ill cough up the cash one day to get a new one

Hi all, I stripped my rear calipers, sliders and all at some point. Failing to take note which slider goes where, normally wouldn’t be too fussed but I’ve noticed that they are not all the same. One is straight like a normal one/front one and the other is stepped (Christmas tree like). does anyone know which way they go? Cheers

its a catback

they do a manifold, and they do a cat-back like Janspeed. They are 2 separate items

I got one brand new a while back, I think it was in the region of 55 quid

My gti has always had less caster on one side, I’ve moved the subframe forward on that side which has helped a tad, would be interested to see if something like this works