imaparana

i had done them in the rally car. alot of weight to be saved, but unless you splash out for an antiscratch coating, they do get scratched very easily/quickly

I know as you say you have sorted this, however there is alot of adjustment in the front subframe, if the wheel was rubbing on one side only maybe the subframe bolts could be loosened and moved forwards?

Jeez, ages since ive updated this, alot has happened since. Another 2 rallies have been plagued by the snapping CV joint issue, on the last stage of L'etacq attack throwing away 1st in class, and on the first stage of a dirt rally while the misses was driving. Mk2 golfs seem to have a similar issue, especially those in America who rally them. The 'cheapest' solution seems to be use Audi 80 cv joints (which fit on the stock shafts), then get the hub machined for a larger bearing and modifying some output flanges to suit. I have had this done now and so far has held up with no issues. one issue we did have was the gearbox. At a hillclimb the gearbox gave up on me shearing 2 teeth off the pinion gear which ejected out of the side of the box. An upgrade was in order and i bit the bullet and went for a dog box from SQS, along with their sequential shifter. Assembly wasnt the most straight forward however its in and the shifts are mega! Had jersey rally a few weeks back which went well, ended up with 3rd in class out of 9 entrants, 32nd out of 83 and got the handbrake trophy too. Also managed a top 10 stage time come the night stages when it started to rain An amazing event and to finish all 26 stages was fantastic. Car was faultless Over winter the car will get a good once over before next season but am toying with the idea of moving onto another platform/car.

i wouldnt as there is a bearing in the end cap, sealant is your best bet

yes you can still run an antiroll bar with coilovers, id suggest just finding a standard one and not a gti one

Hi, Im after some front gti/sport wheel bearing housing/upright. I dont need the bearings or the hubs, just the bare castings. Cheers

Are you referring to the front or rear subframe? I think the site 7zap you can use for a vw parts catalogue

Its about time i posted an update on this. Since the last post the following has happened: The old CV have been replaced with new SKF items, the quality seems pretty decent so hopefully will last a year or two between getting replace. I have had some plates made up to strengthen some Febi lower arms, whilst seam welding and strengthening as per the lupo cup cars, hopefully this will stop this type of failure in the future. I have also fitted a front anti roll bar from a stock lupo, 18mm i think, the 22mm bar from the gti felt too stiff and was quite understeery, i liked the feeling of no from arb but after seeing this picture realise i needed to sort out the roll. Some new wilwoods were fitted, this option let me change some spacers if i want to run 14's for dirt rallys, not convinced on the pedal feel yet but we shall see. I 3D printed some brake ducts aswell and painted these to try and keep brake temps down, a lick of paint and i think they look acceptable. I have done a sprint, autotest, a hill climb and a dirt rally since and the car has been brilliant and very competitive, i even managed to get a fastest stage time at the dirt rally against some faster cars.

Comparing the two on autodoc the afh is 10mm larger diameter, suprised 10mm would make the difference in it slipping or not though

they way i understand it, you dont want the head going from the pads, into the pistons and seals, thats the purpose of it to stop the heat transfer

I thought the same until it came to doing it, hopefully I’m wrong let us know how you get on, upgraded parts would also be nice to know

from my experience replacing these bearings is a piece of cake with the right tools, mk2 is correct regarding the alignment of the bearings but a gearbox man should know what hes doing, removing the 6th gear is not possible without damaging a syncro in the process, this increases built costs £50 ish, FYI

A lot of places list the non gti ball joints for the gti, vin number or not, At least there is an aftermarket supplier for now

Just to confirm this isn’t designed for a lupo gti is it? More so for a polo 6n

I’ve had the exact same thing happen today, but caught it before they sent the wrong ones, they always do this with stuff one person said they were out of stock, the next said they would send the right ones can be a pain but often cheapest place for car parts

ive only every found them on autodoc, i doubt the stark ones will work

id be tempted to get it smoothed over and repainted, i presume they wont fail you if there isnt a 3rd brake light there?

Massive thread revival I know, but does anyone know if they are same as the mkIV golf rear? A popular upgrade for some vw is the mkiv rear caliper as they are aluminum?

ive noticed that the G60 can be cheaper than the 256x25mm stock lupo disc aswell. Only downside to the G60 conversion is the cost of the carriers, which seem to be slowly creeping up in cost.

You can get aftermarket GTI ball joints pretty inexpensively

The only thing in your trans that i think it could be is diff bearings, as the only thing that affects this is speed. I dont think it could be driveshaft related, how old are your tyres? old hard tyres can make more road noise

The brand of disc doesnt play a massive part in the stopping power. I swapped to the G60 280mm disc but with a good pad the stock 256mm is more than adequate on the road.

jacking up the back helps alot to get the rest in i found

St suspension are a decent option, made by KW but less expensive and have lasted me a while, had them 2 years as a road car, then another 2/3 as a rally car and cant complain. i think the gti ones 'may' fit, but if your buying new i cant see any benefit from buying them. Yes they will need the 'ears' that bolt to the hub

ill be honest there wasnt much 'tuning' involved with the trumpets, there isnt much room under the bonnet and airfilter for them so just made them long enough to fill the filter whilst leaving some space. the outer 2 are a tad shorter becasuse of the curve of the filter. luckily it didnt take too much out, had just gone round a tight bend when it went, it bogged down so gave it a clutch kick (which obviously isnt the nicest thing to do) and bang it went. could have been an overtightened nut. They do get tightened pretty tight. The weekend was very dry and hot so pretty tough on drive train to everyone, a mate of mine snapped one on his bmw on the first stage.