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Everything posted by mk2

  1. Nice. Big miles, but looks well maintained. Bargain! I like the anthracite wheels. Mine are silver.
  2. How's the A3 (from memory) going? Long time no visit here.....? We missed you! The forum needs a bit of a wake up these days
  3. Hi and welcome to club lupo lots more details please. Which model? But chances are that the pipe crimp joining the rubber pipe to the steel pipe has corroded away and the car has dumped all the hydraulic fluid on the road. Your pump will be running without fluid, so no lube, which coukd destroy it. Don't use the car. Or could be the fuse to the electric power steering pump (if a different model). Pic of car?
  4. mk2

    Dead SDi

    Had another idea... if you have some pins/needles, push them through the insulation of the wires going to/from the keyswitch. Put clips and tape on and monitor the power/voltage on each wire. At least it will 100% prove that the keyswitch is at fault. You could set up some small light bulbs, one on each wire, so you can monitor each line. Any flickering or not lit, and you know what the problem is. No fault, then all the wires will be ok, without any cutting. If you wanted, you could bypass the keyswitch and add a sneaky power on switch in a spare switch slot. Just a temporary bypass until you get a chance to go down to a breakers yard and have a play on a donor car first- if you find a problem.
  5. If you were down south, near London, or here, you'd easily get £3.5k+.
  6. Welcome to club lupo try and fix it. Is it the seal? You could even rewind the solenoid coil with new wire.... Everything is fixable, especially if you have the skills to do engine part swaps.
  7. Cool. Good to know 👍🏻
  8. Yeah i'll second that. check that the clutch is adjusted correctly, as the pedal boxes can fail and mess things up. There's a thread on it.
  9. mk2

    Hello Everyone

    Welcome to club lupo what do you have or are thinking of buying? Pics?
  10. I was thinking that somewhere air is getting sucked in. You know, that seal on the shaft or plunger that pushes the piston on the master cylinder. Even if it boils, then cools down, you shouldn't get any air (or gases) produced. How have you plumbed in the rear circuit? You still running diagonal split or just fronts?
  11. Not the fuse if they work...
  12. Make sure you seal the inside membrane/film/foam sheet, or the inside of the car will get soaked. Butyl tape works to stick it. Nothing else sticks...
  13. Bubbles? Master cylinder?
  14. There are a couple of pics in the electric window how-to showing what they look like assembled if that helps? Or have a look at the windowon your other door
  15. Ok, so the CCM is ok then if the windows work. It's the control switches. Water can get in them and corrode the contacts (rain, open window...). Can you control the locks with the lock control switch? If yes, then certainly the switches inside the lock mechs. You can't clean them with contact spray. They need to be dismantled (Sealed unit). Does the interior light come on when you open the door? Checked the fuse?
  16. mk2

    Dead SDi

    Never removed the switch from the rear, but it does look possible. I'd strip everything away first, including the steering wheel. Adds only an extra 20 mins work, but makes access so much easier. If you succeed, please post a pic from behind the mech in pieces! Just had a thought- @Sarahs Lupo had a similar problem about a year ago, with it cutting out... what was the cause of it, as I can't remember?! (Or may have been someone else).
  17. It's possible but unusual if it's the CCM. More likely are the lock microswitches for the locking and the press button switches for the windows. Either way, the top door cards will need to come off. I'd start on the driver's door first.
  18. Hey and welcome to club lupo Coil overs are the choice way, but you can go cheap and just use softer front springs from an older dub, like a Derby or old Polo. The heavier weight will lower it at the front. To drop it at the back, you could use lowering plates. I think @danno has a pair for sale. i don't get the debadging. Model yeah, but a lot of people don't even know what a lupo is. There aren't many about (at least not where I am), apart from on my drive.
  19. I ask myself the same question daily... sadly, not just one Lupo either. Oh, and the noise was the new tyres. Hangs head in shame. The newish tyres had developed tread triangulation somehow (each 'lump' of tread had turned into a wedge). Each triangle side was slapping the road, a bit like how off road tyres sound on road. That characteristic hum. So swapping them left to right cured it. Mechanically everything is just fine thankfully. Still can't belive that the gearbox has so much slop in it.
  20. I tried this a while back, too hard. lots of plastic to machine up, although LEDs make lighter work of it. But didn't look professional at all when done. Don't.... An option is to change the front end to gti, but still you'll need to change a lot (including the wings). try daylighter leds instead. What engine r u thinking? welcome to club lupo!
  21. Welcome to club lupo yeah the tdi holds its value. Very economical and goes ok too. Easy to mod too. When you buy it, find lots wrong and haggle on how much it's all going to cost to get fixed.... take that off the asking price
  22. Fixed. Same as a Lupo... Simply pull it through from the rear, using the old pipe as a puller. Cut the end off the old pipe (as it has a connector moulded into it) at the back of the car. Clean, then tape the front end of the new pipe to the cut end of the old pipe. Pull through, remove tape, reattach, plug in, sorted. Quite easy actually.
  23. I bought a vacuum cleaner powered thing a while back. American invention. Basically a big metal can (5 US gallon/20litre) with a ball float and cage to hold it. When full, it blocks off the suction to avoid wrecking the vacuum cleaner. Works with just about any fluid, even mud. You have a hose that comes out of it with all sorts of adapters. Uses the Dyson concept of filtration. I've tried a few different suction things, but none "completely" empties the sump. The dip tube isn't usually located at the lowest point of the sump.
  24. mk2

    Dead SDi

    109. You could simply leave everything out (if practical), and drive it. If it dies on you again, try tapping the relay which will prove it (if it is a dodgy contact). Chances are though, just flexing the cables to it will have moved the contacts inside the relay a fraction- that might completely cure the problem! To remove the shear bolts, drill out with cobalt drill bits. Start small and work up. So like 3mm, then 5, then 8mm (if 5 or 6 doesn't work). Get a small bit set for a few quid.... always handy. Yeah too hot to work in the sun on a car. I just had a thought- never done it, but you might be able to access the ignition switch from the wire end? The shear bolts are simply to prevent access to the lock barrel.
  25. I dunno if i like the idea of putting rose joints on the rear beam like that. Bigger anti roll bar, yes, but you want the ends to move a bit? lamborghini (and maserati) had loads of trouble using rose joints on the front of their countach. They're great in aircraft and boats, but i was always taught that you need the flexing, or you get cracks. Namrick dot 5 fluid used to be good. Not used it for a while. But i found that the piston seals give up sooner when you run hot. Rubber doesn't like being cooked. I wonder if you can get EDPM that works at high temps? Not my area of knowledge. @Skezza is our forum's chemist.... Those are some great pics! That quarry shot?! Cool. I love the custom brake system that I guess runs the rears?
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