mk2

Yeah. Easy. Consult this forum first, but never believe a word @Rich says

Si, es la verdad!

That's different. Maybe something for the continental market? Oh, I so wish i had a glove box......cup holder still in the same place though.

If the supply voltage is low, then they can exhibit the same symptoms. Is the car charging ok? Check the volts when you first turn them on, then again when they start flickering.

Or bodge fix it temporarily with some of that horrid spray foam tyre sealant stuff. At least you could keep driving it till he's back.

Bienvenido a club lupo! yes, change oil, belts, wheel bearings, gear oil, lube hinges, check exhaust straps, filters. Clean inlet duct. Block egr...

Just googled "AN" fittings... very similar. Haven't seen ANs before. Not sure which brand are the type i've used are called. Just buy 'em from local nut and bolt shop. But i have used them for refrigerant, hydraulic fluid, engine oil and cryo stuff i've worked with. Usually you put a drop of lube on the inner bit that slides inside the pipe then tighten up. If i find a pic, i'll post it here.

When I've used them, there's usually an outer sleeve you place over the end, then screw in the fitting. Never ever had one fail, even on JCB hydraulic pressures.

Bit like the SAAB system... handbrake and key lock thing together. I think vdubs have it because it's an extra security/safety thing to make sure the car is in P before you walk away from it. Means it can't roll away. Quite a few US cars I've tried have some sort of parking lock engage system, especially when the shifter is under the steering. Otherwise you could leave it parked in N. Who uses a handbrake (or emergency foot brake) in an auto anyway??? You'll have fun trying to get another key, with the transponder in. One of my two SDI's still has only one key because there is no way I'm paying £128 + Tax for a new one. I don't know anyone who can pair a new key transponder in a Lupo except official Vdub dealers. If anyone reading this does, please please please PM me! (and I don't want the chips in my dash unsoldered...)

Yeah, there's a cable connected to the shifter. Haven't ever worked on an auto lupo, but the adjustment is usually at the shifter on most vdubs. this is the closest diagram i can find for a mk3 golf... ( @Rich got anything clearer?) https://workshop-manuals.com/volkswagen/golf-mk3/automatic_gearbox/automatic_gearbox_096/automatic_gearbox_control_assembly_housing/servicing_shift_mechanism/removing_and_installing_locking_cable_(vehicles_with_ignition_key_removal_lock)/

Is it an electrical or mechanical problem, you think?

Just as an aside on the same topic. @Rich will have seen it too for sure.... Modern FSI engines have a serious design flaw, because they inject petrol directly into the cylinder, like a diesel. Problem is that because of mad emissions controls, the sump gases are actually connected directly into the inlet plenum, after the throttle valve. So the sump runs under vacuum a lot of the time. So all the gases/fumes/particles get sucked straight back into each inlet valve, where there's no fuel wash to keep things clean. After lots of town driving, the backs of the inlet valves get so coked up with this stuff, the valves can't close properly. Misfires, low compression. Game over. AND this happens in many cars that haven't even done 50k miles....

Yeah. Simple one at that. Just need a bung, some electrical conduit and some cable zip ties. Divert the gases down under the car to the road.

Yeah, now imagine all that gunk being sucked into your precision engine internals.... can't beat a breather bypass. You've seen what it does to the throttle body. Best way to get rid of custard is to get the engine nice'n'hot. It melts away into the oil which you can change along with the filter.

One word. Emissions control. Ok, so two words.... the cat will convert any unburnt fuel before it has a chance to get to the tail pipe. So no go really.

That's the TPS throttle position sensor, the thing that tells the computer what position the throttle valve is at. The feed is usually 5v and earth, with the output varying between 0.5-4.5 volts approx. The output should be smooth, without any jumps between idle and WOT. if it doesn't work, the computer can't tell how open it is so it makes a best guess. But once warm, the fixed idle air gap allows just enough air through to idle normally. Clever get you home program if there's a fault.

Is that caused by the sump blow by gases getting sucked through? Haven't worked on that specific engine so dunno TBH. I always divert blowby gasses away from any intakes. Why give your engine smelly, polluted, contaminated air after you go through all the effort of filtering everything before it gets in there.... bonus is your engine runs smoother, a bit more power, cleaner exhaust emissions, better economy etc etc. I can't believe i just used 'etc etc' on CL!

The serif tops of the "u" and the "b" are slightly different.

Yeah, ok, so it might be temp sensor from your description. Sounds like it's leaning out, then dies. Different to a sudden cutting out. Sounds like a fuelling issue based on wrong sensor readings. When the engine's stone cold, what do the diagnostics read, if you look at the temp probes? Are they the same? (Air/coolant).

So it dies gradually, not like the ignition's been turned off?

I've just been looking at various serif fonts. Omg. There are g'zillions. It's not a typeface font. Or sans serif. Looks like a modern arty font. The slash cut on the 'C' is unusual. might be HVD Comic Serif Pro ?

If it's not the ignition switch or immobiliser, it sounds like crank sensor. Unlikely to be temp sensor. which model lupo is it?

I still want stickers...

I once race tuned a Lada for a laugh (yeah it is possible), and i remember doing exactly that- wherever there is too much movement in a joint, you can whack it to close it up. I didn't think anyone knew that old trick...! Sounds like @Rich went to the same school as me.

I thiught that they use low friction coefficient nylon 66 type compounds. It has a naturally low surface friction, similar to teflon (ptfe), but tougher. I does make me ponder why there is some grease on the surface of the sphere. Nylon combined with steel doesn't need lube. @mscherryviolet is right though. It is most important.